Electrical/12v issues.

[flocktothewall]

I've scoured this forum for answers. I'm stumped.

Our new to us forester is a 2015 -2401r. It had 7,000 miles on when we bought it. Pretty much love it.

Anyways all was well first few times we took it out. But when we started boon-docking we noticed all sorts of gremlins in the 12v system.

#1 our batteries after being plugged into shore power while stored for a week were only at 12.48v not the 12.6+ I would have expected them to be.

At the campground we lost about .05v about every 2 hours or so. We didn't use the lights, water pump or anything. Just extended the slides and ran the Fridge on the gas. After overnighting we ended up about 11.78 volts. Had to run the chassis engine to start the generator. 2nd time this happened. In Yosemite with limited generator hours it set off our propane alarm with low voltage.

I've been suspicious about the batteries since day 1. They have water in then.

But in our looking for RVs almost every dealer every time we looked at an RV had dead batteries - it seems they don't keep them plugged in on the lot. I'm wondering if by sitting and being discharged and recharged at the lot if they're bad.

#2. My manual says I have a progressive dynamics 9200 but all I found was a WFCO 9855 under my sink drawer. I'm wondering if it was replaced by previous owner? Either way when batteries die I can't seem to get it to charge in boost mode. Before storing it plugged in I left it for a few days and came back and batteries were at 8v. Even at that low it charged at 13.6v.

#3. When driving the MBS alternator charges at 14.1 volts. Even when the battery disconnect switch is off it gets 14v from MBS. The problem is that while connected the 14.1 volts is going to the entire system so it melted a 12v tv plug. Shouldn't the power center prevent that? So now driving we have to have battery system disconnected.

I'm a little irritated because the previous owner/dealer had to know about these power issues - but that's life. I'm not super savvy on electrical but not clueless either. Any help or advice particularly about the alternator feeding 14v to the entire coach while driving and where to start with 12v system would be super appreciated.

[PSU Turf]

#1 - Sounds like your battery is shot. A charged battery should be at 12.6 volts or better. I also learned the hard way. My battery would go dead in about 5 days, with the trailer in storage, if I left it hooked up.

#3 - Seems odd that 14.1V from the alternator would melt a 12V plug. 14.1V is a normal alternator output.

[flocktothewall]

The plug melting just happened. My assumption is that it was the higher voltage.

If not what would cause a plug to overheat like that? Vibration down the road? It's a cigarette plug that the tv is powered by - would road vibrations cause a short or something like that?

[VinceU]

Seems the batteries have been brutalized over the past two years and most likely down to half capacity or less. They can be capacity tested by a battery retailer. If changed, you can test the ability of the charger/ converter to hold the normal load and charge coach batteries. If the Wfco is bad, go back with a progressive.


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[Sandiegodoug]

We have a 2013 solera, and like to dry camp at the beach. I noticed that the refer draws power even on propane only. Also co2 detector, and I'm sure other parasitic draws as well. I thought batteries bad, but had them tested and fine. My solution for the dry camping was 2x100 watt solar panels and a mppt controller
Batteries seem to stay charged all day, where as before I had to run gen to recharge , even if we were careful not to use power at night(lanterns in rv for light)

[Sandiegodoug]

By the way, no issues of melting plugs

[bob dirt]

Buy new batteries and get a portable solar panel if you dry camp. Some here have had 12volt TV plugs melt and were replaced by a vendor here in warranty if I remember right...not related to you bad battery problem.

[Rich.M]

A short in the tv plug or tv circuit could explain the overnight dead battery and melted plug. Surprising that the power center fuse did not blow, may want to check if it was subbed with the wrong amp rating. Voltages of 14.1 to 14.4 are normal charge voltages during bulk charge, the electric system is designed for it. A short will draw amps . Try pulling the fuse to the tv circuit and see if batteries go down overnight. Might still may have battery issue if 2 years old or more. Progressive dynamics 9200 would be better. The 13.6 on the WFCO might be ok ,13.6 may be float charge rate that follows a time limited bulk charge at 14.4 . Would need to check a manual to know the charging profile if you intend to keep the WFCO.

[KatanaPilot]

If you do find that your coach batteries are shot, you may want to consider replacing them with AGM batteries. If you boondock a good bit, there are higher capacity batteries that will fit. AGM's don't need much maintenance and they rarely offgas (which can set off your propane/CO alarm).

I installed Group 31 AGM's on our Forester MBS. You may want to check out my post here - http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ll-103142.html

[Rich.M]

I re read your post and realized we have the same model. We also dry camp frequently. A typical evening with refridge on propane, led lights 4 hours, brief pump use and 2 hours fantastic fan will usually draw us down from 12.7-8 to 12.3-4. Your batteries should not be dead overnight. Don't feel too bad about needing new batteries. Ours is the same age and we already had to replace the stock batteries for an acid leak. Used grp 31 agm as suggested by KatanaPilot.

[ScottBrownstein]

I notice that everything in your post is based on measured battery voltage, which is not a good method of determining battery state of charge. My bet is that you have some bad batteries since you do get 14.1 when driving, which should push some charge into them, but clearly you don't have good battery capacity.

That being said, your converter should give you more than 13.6. After plugging in for days you had 8 volts...that is not a good sign.

Cigarette lighter connectors are notorious for heating and they have far less amperage capacity than most think. They get hot all the time since they don't connect all that well. I do wonder why the TV was drawing all that much current to melt the plug. as others have said, it is more than likely unrelated to your battery problem.

Losing .05 volts every two hours is indicative of either a large current draw or batteries that have little capacity. Remember when you measure the voltage of a battery after resting for a while it is somewhat indicative of the state of charge of the battery but says absolutely nothing about the remaining capacity of the unit to supply current. Sounds like yours have little capacity left.

[KyDan]

One more thing- to consider-
All the above suggestions are good.

The hourly drop in voltage MIGHT also be your refrigerator drain.
Some refers on LP mode also have an "environmental heater" that is
supposed to warm the strip of metal between the freezer door and fresh food
doors. This heater is typically 12v powered.
There has been much discussion here about this.
Some refers have the heater AND a switch to shut it off.
Some have the heater and no option to shut it off.
Some don't have the heater at all.
If you have the heater it is a battery hog and needs to be shut off or disconnected when boon docking.

Good luck!

[DaveJordan]

Originally Posted by flocktothewall

The plug melting just happened. My assumption is that it was the higher voltage.

If not what would cause a plug to overheat like that? Vibration down the road? It's a cigarette plug that the tv is powered by - would road vibrations cause a short or something like that?

The 12 volt TV wall plug is, pardon me, a piece of crap. You can call the company, tell them it melted, they'll be all apologetic, and then they'll send you another piece of crap wall plug.

I suggest that you find a heavier duty plug - maybe something like this:

Amazon.com: K40 K403CBPP 2-Wire 15A 3-Pin CB Power Cord with 12V Cigarette Lighter Plug: Automotive

Good luck!

Dave

[flocktothewall]

[QUOTE=Rich.M;1198263]A typical evening with refridge on propane, led lights 4 hours, brief pump use and 2 hours fantastic fan will usually draw us down from 12.7-8 to 12.3-4. Your batteries should not be dead overnight. /QUOTE]


Our typical night is fridge on propane. That's it. Flashlights all around. And the batteries die. My DW was thrilled we went from roughing it to - still roughing it - not using the lights and all.

Thanks all for the valuable feedback. I think now the tv plug was unrelated and just coincidental. I was able to pull the plug apart and the fuse inside had blown, but it must have just keep my getting current. That happened once in my truck - I'll attribute it to a bad plug and replace with a better one.

I don't have an ammeter yet so I can't measure amperage draw but I plan on getting one to see what the draw is while its "resting" and go fuse by fuse to see what vampires I have.

Our Dometic Fridge has very little options. On/off and auto/gas. No other switches. I've seen on other posts in this forum it draws anywhere from .25 1 amp/hour.

Last night after our 4 hour road trip home the batteries measure at 12.8 but as soon as I turned one LED light on they dropped to 12.4 and quickly dropped .01v every few seconds.

[MNtraveler]

[QUOTE=flocktothewall;1198442]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

A typical evening with refridge on propane, led lights 4 hours, brief pump use and 2 hours fantastic fan will usually draw us down from 12.7-8 to 12.3-4. Your batteries should not be dead overnight. /QUOTE]


Our typical night is fridge on propane. That's it. Flashlights all around. And the batteries die. My DW was thrilled we went from roughing it to - still roughing it - not using the lights and all.

Thanks all for the valuable feedback. I think now the tv plug was unrelated and just coincidental. I was able to pull the plug apart and the fuse inside had blown, but it must have just keep my getting current. That happened once in my truck - I'll attribute it to a bad plug and replace with a better one.

I don't have an ammeter yet so I can't measure amperage draw but I plan on getting one to see what the draw is while its "resting" and go fuse by fuse to see what vampires I have.

Our Dometic Fridge has very little options. On/off and auto/gas. No other switches. I've seen on other posts in this forum it draws anywhere from .25 1 amp/hour.

Last night after our 4 hour road trip home the batteries measure at 12.8 but as soon as I turned one LED light on they dropped to 12.4 and quickly dropped .01v every few seconds.

When you measured voltage right after a road trip, that could just be surface charge, not reflecting the true charge state of the battery. You have to wait a while for that. Unless you had the alternator disconnected from the battery, but then it wouldn't have charged up to 12.8.

Battery State of Charge Using a Voltmeter | All About Lead Acid Batteries

Battery Specific Gravity Test: Battery Hydrometer Test

[Pod2Vibe]

The Jensen TV plug melting is an known issue, I replaced with a more heavy duty plug end. Nothing to do with voltage, it is just a POS.

The WFCO to PD9200 must have been a running change in 2015 models since luckily, I got the PD9200. I say this since the WFCO was not nice to the battery in my old RPOD.

[KyDan]

The strip of metal between the freezer and fresh food door will feel warm
to the touch if you have the battery sucking heater.
If it's cold and damp you don't have the heater.

[khocke]

Back to the fridge...if you have a Dometic, do this easy mod. I did and it made a difference (still sounds like your batteries are toast though - water them up lately?)




http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/domet...ls-291269.html

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by khocke

Back to the fridge...if you have a Dometic, do this easy mod. I did and it made a difference (still sounds like your batteries are toast though - water them up lately?)




http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/domet...ls-291269.html

Is the dehumidifier on Dometic frigs used on the MBS chassis. Is, there a way to tell by model number, etc.

[KyDan]

If you have the heater- you can tell simply by putting your finger on the
strip of metal between the freezer and fresh food doors.
If it's warm you have the heater.