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Old 11-28-2015, 10:23 PM   #1
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Freeze Up

I have 24 RSLED and it was down below zero last night. We are full time in it and the water inside the unit froze. I put a heater in the rear storage area by the winterization and pump area opened up all faucets with water heater off and it broke loose after about 30 minutes. Will try to come up with some kind of insulation for the pump area inside the plastic door. Interior temp was 65 entire time. Am at park with heated hose and lead in. Just FYI.
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:41 PM   #2
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This may be a dumb question - was it zero Fahrenheit or Celsius?
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:50 PM   #3
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I would assume you have some kind of cabinet door that you could open to allow warmer inside air access to the pump area?

Or put a 100 watt light in there.
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:54 PM   #4
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As US standards haven't switched over yet I always use F for temps. It was really cold. The door that I accessed to force heat in is inside the rear storage area on the driver side. Light bulb not a bad idea though. Thanks for that. I don't see any exposed water lines under coach except a feeder to black tank for flushing.
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:21 AM   #5
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If it was below 0 in F degrees then you will have some other issues. That is an awfully hard freeze. No leaks or burst pipes anywhere? At below 0 in F a light bulb won't do much.
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:42 AM   #6
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Dogpa- Can I assume all you hot and cold piping and teh FW tank are all inside the "heated envelope" of the MH? Just no warm air being moved into where the tank is? If so, on my Prism I put a small computer style fan (on same circuit as my waste tank heater pads) inside the compartment to draw and move warmer air under my fridge (where my FW tank is). Not sure if possible where your tank is- could also T-off a vent and put some warm air in that compartment. Light bulb and small fan could work for you. Also put a cheap remote thermometer in that area- will help you get an idea of what is happening back there.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:12 AM   #7
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All good suggestions thanks much. Will do some good research as soon as it get a little warmer.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:25 AM   #8
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Were you running unit heater or small elec. heater? Unit heater should have a run to pump/filter area. I have at times not winterized, put unit heater @ 50 degrees with temps in the 20's, nothing froze.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:36 AM   #9
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Am running space heaters as propane runs out too quick.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:42 AM   #10
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That is part of the problem. You can get an extend a stay kit to use propane bottles that are easily refilled. I installed one for when we travel and stay in one place for a month. Easier refilling a 20lb. bottle than moving RV.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:54 AM   #11
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Not alot warmer on this side of mountain this morn......cold is cold!
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Old 11-29-2015, 12:30 PM   #12
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Are you staying in a full hook up park? If you are then run you water over night or as long as it is cold outside. All you need is the size of a pencil lead flowing and your drains open. Water running usually doesn't freeze.
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Old 11-29-2015, 12:31 PM   #13
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Yes that is on the improvement list but still can't find ducting from unit heater that goes by pump and pipe area.
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:45 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post

Or put a 100 watt light in there.
Good luck trying to find one of those!
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:56 AM   #15
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As US standards haven't switched over yet I always use F for temps. It was really cold.
There won't be any switching anytime soon, we are staying with the english system for everyday use, and the metric system for science apllication. That is actually the best of both worlds IMO. Whats funny is, things like lumber used by our neighbors to the north, are produced by yes, you guessed it, the English system, in their metric world. Just think about it, way more efficient in that apllication, construction. "hey buddy, hand me another 5.08cm x 10.16cm board, will ya".
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:59 PM   #16
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I had to buy a special application rough duty 100 watter. Wow and they are not cheap.
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:35 PM   #17
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A 60 watt bulb will do the trick if positioned in the right place. We camp every winter while snowmobiling and it often gets below zero F, and we camp wet. Years ago we would sometimes freeze up, but after putting in a couple of 60 watt bulbs in different places. We no longer have a problem. I also cram in batt insulation around the tank areas so that the heat from the bulb is concentrated.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:12 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dogpa View Post
As US standards haven't switched over yet I always use F for temps. It was really cold.
Sorry to hear that. I was hoping it's just below freezing point, not sub-zero F.
As I'm thinking about taking my W to ski where it is ~ 20F, I'm also concerned about the pipes and tanks. Because I don't like the unit heater for its smell and noise, I want to use a space heater (heat dish). I asked my RV service guy who also has W units as rentals, and he said a heater is fine and "Important to have heat on all the time. Open up cabinet doors to circulate warm air into them where water pipes are". Any agreement or disagreement?
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:26 PM   #19
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I am in Bend and had a run of zero or below for three or four days. I have been using space heaters and no light bulbs. Water froze two nights in a row. I have a 24 R and have put a drop light with a 75 watt in the pump area. Time will tell. Also found at an RV place here a dual valve to install on unit tank that will allow access to both an extra tank for unit and a hose for BBQ.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Still Kickin View Post
There won't be any switching anytime soon, we are staying with the english system for everyday use, and the metric system for science apllication. That is actually the best of both worlds IMO. Whats funny is, things like lumber used by our neighbors to the north, are produced by yes, you guessed it, the English system, in their metric world. Just think about it, way more efficient in that apllication, construction. "hey buddy, hand me another 5.08cm x 10.16cm board, will ya".
The correct name is Imperial system not English , just for the record
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