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11-28-2015, 10:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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Freeze Up
I have 24 RSLED and it was down below zero last night. We are full time in it and the water inside the unit froze. I put a heater in the rear storage area by the winterization and pump area opened up all faucets with water heater off and it broke loose after about 30 minutes. Will try to come up with some kind of insulation for the pump area inside the plastic door. Interior temp was 65 entire time. Am at park with heated hose and lead in. Just FYI.
Dogpa
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11-28-2015, 10:41 PM
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#2
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2015 Forester MBS 2401W
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 299
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This may be a dumb question - was it zero Fahrenheit or Celsius?
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Jeff
2015 Forester MBS 2401W
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11-28-2015, 10:50 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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I would assume you have some kind of cabinet door that you could open to allow warmer inside air access to the pump area?
Or put a 100 watt light in there.
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2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-28-2015, 10:54 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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As US standards haven't switched over yet I always use F for temps. It was really cold. The door that I accessed to force heat in is inside the rear storage area on the driver side. Light bulb not a bad idea though. Thanks for that. I don't see any exposed water lines under coach except a feeder to black tank for flushing.
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11-29-2015, 09:21 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,947
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If it was below 0 in F degrees then you will have some other issues. That is an awfully hard freeze. No leaks or burst pipes anywhere? At below 0 in F a light bulb won't do much.
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2016 Chevy Silverado 2500 Duramax
2016 Rockwood 8289WS, Diamond Pkg.
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11-29-2015, 09:42 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Maritime Provinces
Posts: 239
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Dogpa- Can I assume all you hot and cold piping and teh FW tank are all inside the "heated envelope" of the MH? Just no warm air being moved into where the tank is? If so, on my Prism I put a small computer style fan (on same circuit as my waste tank heater pads) inside the compartment to draw and move warmer air under my fridge (where my FW tank is). Not sure if possible where your tank is- could also T-off a vent and put some warm air in that compartment. Light bulb and small fan could work for you. Also put a cheap remote thermometer in that area- will help you get an idea of what is happening back there.
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MarsMan
2015 Coachmen Prism 24J MBS
USN-R '01-present
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11-29-2015, 11:12 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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All good suggestions thanks much. Will do some good research as soon as it get a little warmer.
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11-29-2015, 11:25 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Were you running unit heater or small elec. heater? Unit heater should have a run to pump/filter area. I have at times not winterized, put unit heater @ 50 degrees with temps in the 20's, nothing froze.
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11-29-2015, 11:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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Am running space heaters as propane runs out too quick.
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11-29-2015, 11:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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That is part of the problem. You can get an extend a stay kit to use propane bottles that are easily refilled. I installed one for when we travel and stay in one place for a month. Easier refilling a 20lb. bottle than moving RV.
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11-29-2015, 11:54 AM
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#11
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Not alot warmer on this side of mountain this morn......cold is cold!
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11-29-2015, 12:30 PM
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#12
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Phat Phrog Stunt Crew
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upper Penisula Michigan / Arizona
Posts: 2,767
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Are you staying in a full hook up park? If you are then run you water over night or as long as it is cold outside. All you need is the size of a pencil lead flowing and your drains open. Water running usually doesn't freeze.
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Ed & Ruthann / Toby and Tucker
2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
2014 Wildcat 327ck
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11-29-2015, 12:31 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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Yes that is on the improvement list but still can't find ducting from unit heater that goes by pump and pipe area.
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11-30-2015, 08:45 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
Or put a 100 watt light in there.
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Good luck trying to find one of those!
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11-30-2015, 08:56 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogpa
As US standards haven't switched over yet I always use F for temps. It was really cold.
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There won't be any switching anytime soon, we are staying with the english system for everyday use, and the metric system for science apllication. That is actually the best of both worlds IMO. Whats funny is, things like lumber used by our neighbors to the north, are produced by yes, you guessed it, the English system, in their metric world. Just think about it, way more efficient in that apllication, construction. "hey buddy, hand me another 5.08cm x 10.16cm board, will ya".
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11-30-2015, 02:59 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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I had to buy a special application rough duty 100 watter. Wow and they are not cheap.
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11-30-2015, 03:35 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 259
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A 60 watt bulb will do the trick if positioned in the right place. We camp every winter while snowmobiling and it often gets below zero F, and we camp wet. Years ago we would sometimes freeze up, but after putting in a couple of 60 watt bulbs in different places. We no longer have a problem. I also cram in batt insulation around the tank areas so that the heat from the bulb is concentrated.
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2009 Sunseeker 2860DS
Bulldog keyless entry
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Ultragauge EM Plus OBDII monitor
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11-30-2015, 05:12 PM
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#18
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2015 Forester MBS 2401W
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogpa
As US standards haven't switched over yet I always use F for temps. It was really cold.
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Sorry to hear that. I was hoping it's just below freezing point, not sub-zero F.
As I'm thinking about taking my W to ski where it is ~ 20F, I'm also concerned about the pipes and tanks. Because I don't like the unit heater for its smell and noise, I want to use a space heater (heat dish). I asked my RV service guy who also has W units as rentals, and he said a heater is fine and "Important to have heat on all the time. Open up cabinet doors to circulate warm air into them where water pipes are". Any agreement or disagreement?
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Jeff
2015 Forester MBS 2401W
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11-30-2015, 07:26 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bend
Posts: 331
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I am in Bend and had a run of zero or below for three or four days. I have been using space heaters and no light bulbs. Water froze two nights in a row. I have a 24 R and have put a drop light with a 75 watt in the pump area. Time will tell. Also found at an RV place here a dual valve to install on unit tank that will allow access to both an extra tank for unit and a hose for BBQ.
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11-30-2015, 07:35 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Kickin
There won't be any switching anytime soon, we are staying with the english system for everyday use, and the metric system for science apllication. That is actually the best of both worlds IMO. Whats funny is, things like lumber used by our neighbors to the north, are produced by yes, you guessed it, the English system, in their metric world. Just think about it, way more efficient in that apllication, construction. "hey buddy, hand me another 5.08cm x 10.16cm board, will ya".
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The correct name is Imperial system not English , just for the record
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