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Old 10-04-2017, 07:57 PM   #1
oreddie
 
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Greetings Fellow Sprinter Fans

We just purchased our 4th Sprinter based RV, a 2017 Forester 2401WS, and, fingers crossed, think we've finally found the perfect floor plan and quality of build-out for us.

We've had RoVer out for a three day trial run on the Oregon coast, found a couple minor issues, but very much enjoyed our new rig.

I don't understand why, for a vehicle costing nearly 100k, the manufacturer couldn't spend a few bucks on a model-specific owner's manual (Winnebago does) so I'll have to rely on y'all for info on winterization (coming soon) procedures and likely more questions.

I've managed to connect the OneControl app and it's working well. Nothing like being able to send out the slide from outside and watch the progress and turning on lights from my phone is a real treat as there are no switches close to the entry door,.

Our biggest issue right now is leveling. I use LevelPro and have tried to set it straight with the slide retracted. I've noted in this forum that some level after the slide is extended but am concerned about maneuvering RoVer with the slide out. We're heading for Sparks, NV Friday and I'm sure I'll have a chance to work on that.

Anyway, we're glad to be a part of this group, have some Sprinter RV experience I hope I can share to help others, and look forward to chatting with y'all.

Ed
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:51 PM   #2
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Hey Ed!

Congratulations on your new ride! We have a SunSeeker MBS 2400W, and, like you, believe it is a pretty perfect floor plan. I'm with you on the manual... what was provided is missing any model specific information, especially about the winterization process.

We do not have that One Control app... sounds pretty cool. I would love to be able to run out that big slide while watching it from the outside. Right now my DW operates the control from the inside, while I give it the eye from outdoors. Magic is performed every time!

Regarding leveling, most campgrounds are pretty flat, and we have become pretty adept at scoping out the territory and playing with the lego blocks. Seems to me that you need to level and drop the rear stabilizers before running out the slide. In fact, the Big Foot's we have will really help with the "fore-aft" part of the leveling, as they will raise the rear end several inches. Further, I would never drive the RV even a few inches with that slide out... seems like nothing but a request for trouble.

Maybe we will cross paths out there one day! Enjoy!

Bob & Cynthia
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24000 miles and 170 nights since April 2016.
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Old 10-05-2017, 05:39 AM   #3
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We use a very simple leveling method that has worked in many RV .

Lay a bubble level in the freezer and move the RV till the fridge is really happy.

Place the same level on some spot its easy to see for the driver , shim as necessary to get the bubble perfect.

Then use the dash bubble when slowly trying a camp site , the real lift legs are mostly to stop movement tho they easily lift a few inches.

Then deploy the slide out.
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Old 10-05-2017, 06:01 AM   #4
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I usually level and extend the stabilizer jacks before extending the slide on our W. A little trick that works for me is to "level" with the driver side about an inch and a half high. Then when the slide is extended and the center of gravity moves to the left, the final result is a level rig.
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Old 10-05-2017, 08:24 AM   #5
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We have 2016 2104W. With the tanks empty we found you need the drivers side about 1.5 to 2 degrees high to before you put the slide out. With water and fuel full never much of a problem. The weight of stuff stored in the wardrobe and under seat drawers will also effect level. We have found that concrete pad vs dirt will also make about a small difference. We use a bubble level and the Duallevel app on our iPhone for measurements. I always put stabilizers down first and have the fore/aft level before putting out the slide.
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:23 PM   #6
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Greetings Fellow Sprinter Fans

I also am one of those folks that have learned that raising the driver side rear wheels about 1-1/2 inches will make the rig level when extending the slide. I put 2x8x12-inch blocks under my rear wheels on the driver side. Works just about every time for my Forester 2401W.
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:35 PM   #7
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With respect to winterizing the drains are located under the rear of the coach. There is a white screw-in port that will give you access to the fresh water tank drain valve. There are two hoses with screw caps for draining the hot and cold water plumbing that are tucked inside as well. After draining and perhaps blowing out the lines you can add antifreeze. Under the shower is a access hatch for the hose to put in a bottle of antifreeze and pump it through the system with the water pump. Remember to also drain the outside hose that is in the back near the shore power plug.
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:40 PM   #8
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PS: the valves for the hot water tank bypass are under the stove top. I simply remove the drawer to get access. If you have an oven you will need to remove the panel under it.
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Old 10-05-2017, 02:18 PM   #9
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Wow good info here, I agree with all. Drivers side 1.5 inches high, rear stabs down then slide out. Do not move RV with slide out, not even sure you can with interlocks for parking brake. Congrats on your new RV, this is my first Sprinter Chassis and learning about the maintenance side. 20K oil change limit but I am doing mine about 12K and Transmission at 25K because of being at max combined weight always when traveling. Only thing that I don't like is having the fuel filter changed every year even with only 12K on it. I will eventually do it myself as soon as I figure out all the needed tools and where to get parts. I have my doubts as to if this is necessary every year. Anyway congrats and have fun.
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Old 10-06-2017, 01:42 AM   #10
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I rarely use the stabilizers or Legos. I installed SumoSprings a year ago which more or less negates the need to use the stabilizers. I like to drive through the RV park and nail
a level space but sleeping slightly unlevel doesn't bother me, especially with some good weed.
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:29 PM   #11
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Many thanks. Your method works well for me.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:41 AM   #12
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Hey Ed since you have a lot of Sprinter experience I have a question. Is it true that the MB can't handle b20 and how much of an issue has it been for u. We love the 2401W and are also looking at the winnabeggo Fuse. Trying to research as much as possible. TIA
Kelley
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by K9graham View Post
Hey Ed since you have a lot of Sprinter experience I have a question. Is it true that the MB can't handle b20 and how much of an issue has it been for u. We love the 2401W and are also looking at the winnabeggo Fuse. Trying to research as much as possible. TIA
Kelley


Hi Kelley!

There has been much conversation on this topic, and you will find a wide range of answers. MB specifies B5 or lower on the current diesel line, but if you are forced to use B20, they suggest more frequent oil changes... late model units have a 20000 mile interval between changes. B20 is mostly a Midwest thing, as the farmers benefit from its production. Although we live in the Midwest, we mostly travel elsewhere, and rarely have a problem finding the B5. Most folks think an occasional tank of B20 is not the end of the world. Do you see B20 in broad use out there in California?

Hope this helps!

Bob & Cynthia
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24000 miles and 170 days on-board since April, 2016
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:22 PM   #14
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Greetings Fellow Sprinter Fans

If you want more info on the subject, here's a link to the MB biodiesel brochure on the subject:https://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/Digital..._Brochure5.pdf

Glad you asked the question because the answer is something I needed to know as well.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Hi Rider View Post
If you want more info on the subject, here's a link to the MB biodiesel brochure on the subject:https://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/Digital..._Brochure5.pdf

Glad you asked the question because the answer is something I needed to know as well.


Thanks for the link to the brochure... straight from the horse's mouth!
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:05 AM   #16
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IF forced to use B 20 , be sure to get a fresh tank of better fuel before storing the unit.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:39 AM   #17
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Thanks for the info on B20. Bob here in CA we see mostly Bzero but want to know what we might be getting into since the point of the rv is to do some traveling. Thanks group! You are all very knowledgeable.
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:34 PM   #18
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Many thanks! I found a white screw off/on cover plate, 4-6 inches in diameter, under the coach where you described and the panel at the shower. There's also a valve in the base of the shower with normal and winterize positions. Not sure what that does but I'll move it to winterize during the process.
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by OREddie View Post
Many thanks! I found a white screw off/on cover plate, 4-6 inches in diameter, under the coach where you described and the panel at the shower. There's also a valve in the base of the shower with normal and winterize positions. Not sure what that does but I'll move it to winterize during the process.


The Winterize lever redirects the water pump intake from the fresh water tank to a hose in that panel under the shower. You place that hose in an anti freeze bottle to pump the pink stuff through all the plumbing in the coach.
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:45 AM   #20
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As a new Sprinter owner know that the early models (our first was a 2005 View) were notorious for going into limp home mode (only enough power to make 30-35 mph, maybe) for two issues: blown turbo resonator and an oil sensor)

The turbo resonator issue seems to have been fixed in subsequent models but be careful not to overfill engine oil. I don't add any until the level on the stick is at "minimum" and then only one quart.
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