How to sump fuel filter?

[Byron in TX]

Hi All:

I did a search and came up dry.....

Any information on how to sump the MB fuel filter? And/or how to change it?

It's an easy 2 minute task in my pickup that I do every other fuel fill.

Cheap insurance against water in fuel.

But for the MB chassis, I couldn't find much....even on Youtube.

Thanks!

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Byron in TX

Hi All:

I did a search and came up dry.....

Any information on how to sump the MB fuel filter? And/or how to change it?

It's an easy 2 minute task in my pickup that I do every other fuel fill.

Cheap insurance against water in fuel.

But for the MB chassis, I couldn't find much....even on Youtube.

Thanks!

It will take about 1 1/2hrs. There are several things you need to have to do the job right. The filter itself has a water in fuel sensor. First you need your vin# because there are in production year changes, so you need get the right one. Also you need to change the turbo intake housing sleeve, since there have been instances of failure and sucking it into the turbine (not good). You may need to buy the clamp removal tool, I think they are called R clips. Search "Sprinter forum" for more information. Heres a start 2010 Fuel Filter Replacement - Sprinter-Forum

[Byron in TX]

Thanks, Still Kickin. Does anyone know if the turbo compensating ring issue has been resolved for the 2015's and beyond? Or is this something I should plan on replacing myself ASAP after delivery of the unit? Thanks.

[Byron in TX]

And it looks like 'sumping' or 'draining' the fuel filter isn't an option like it is in my Cummins truck. Instead you must replace the entire filter on the Benz.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Byron in TX

And it looks like 'sumping' or 'draining' the fuel filter isn't an option like it is in my Cummins truck. Instead you must replace the entire filter on the Benz.

Yes. However, since it has a sensor, you should receive a warning light prior to any critical levels of water accumulation prior to being introduced to the engine. That warning would trigger the need to replace the filter before the recommended duty cycle. As far as I know, there hasn't been a mention of water in fuel issue on this forum.

Have no idea if Benz changed the turbo sleeve design. Easiest way is to search that part, if it's made for your make and model, then it's the same.

[backdoctor]

Hey kickin. I've had just that issue. I got a "water in fuel" light on the dash. There is advice in the manual as to how to evacuate some of the fluid from the fuel filter. I did this and the message went away for a while. Then returned about a month later (Aug 15) and wouldn't go away despite eliminating fluid as prescribed. In to MB and was told they need to drain the fuel tank and change the fuel filter. $800 CDN later the symbol in the dash was off and the rig was running fine. They said there was no way to get the water out of the tank other than dropping it and remove all the fuel. Personally, I wonder if just changing the fuel filter would have been enough.

[Mikegjax]

Originally Posted by backdoctor

Hey kickin. I've had just that issue. I got a "water in fuel" light on the dash. There is advice in the manual as to how to evacuate some of the fluid from the fuel filter. I did this and the message went away for a while. Then returned about a month later (Aug 15) and wouldn't go away despite eliminating fluid as prescribed. In to MB and was told they need to drain the fuel tank and change the fuel filter. $800 CDN later the symbol in the dash was off and the rig was running fine. They said there was no way to get the water out of the tank other than dropping it and remove all the fuel. Personally, I wonder if just changing the fuel filter would have been enough.

Probably depends on how much water was in the fuel. Think I would have started with the filter. Filters run from $60.00 to $150.00 approx. Compensation ring about $25.00. The new 5 pin filters come with the sensor and heater incorporated.

I would think MB changed the filter along with cleaning the tank.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by backdoctor

Hey kickin. I've had just that issue. I got a "water in fuel" light on the dash. There is advice in the manual as to how to evacuate some of the fluid from the fuel filter. I did this and the message went away for a while. Then returned about a month later (Aug 15) and wouldn't go away despite eliminating fluid as prescribed. In to MB and was told they need to drain the fuel tank and change the fuel filter. $800 CDN later the symbol in the dash was off and the rig was running fine. They said there was no way to get the water out of the tank other than dropping it and remove all the fuel. Personally, I wonder if just changing the fuel filter would have been enough.

Interesting. Sounds like you picked up a bad load during a fill cycle. Anyway, it all depends on how much water is in the tank. Since you can't really know that, your stuck with purging the water through the bleeder circuit line off the filter itself. I would bleed it off into a clear container, let it settle and see how much water comes out of the filter.
Oh and by the way, understanding the plumbing at a fuel station, the draw off line is above the bottom of the storage tanks, to allow for the accumulation of water. So a good rule of thumb is to not fill from a station when the tanker is dropping its fuel load. That "stirs" the tank and thats when your most likely to get bad fuel. Just sayin'

[backdoctor]

That's interesting SK. It makes sense when you think about it. And as far as MB was concerned they explained the same thing. I could "try" just changing the filter, but if that wasn't enough, they'd have to drain the tank and change the filter again! In addition I was headed to Colorado and Utah for a month the following week, and I had no appetite for repairs on the road with a dealer I wasn't familiar with. Star motors here in Ottawa is first rate, and I've had great care and support. Not cheap, but neither are our rigs. I'm not easily satisfied, and they have kept me happy, as has RV Canada. As a dealer I'm pleased with service. Timely and cost effective.

[Rkloud9]

Regarding water in the fuel, take a look at this thread in the Sprinter forum...

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...ferrerid=36108

The author is a pretty respected Sprinter mechanic in Colorado. Some pretty terrible stuff, so maybe ignorance is bliss?!?

Moral seems to be that one should respect the Water in Fuel warning.



Bob & Cynthia
SunSeeker MBS 2400W Under Construction, to arrive April 1st
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[Byron in TX]

Time to muddy the waters....

Attached is info from the '14 Sprinter chassis manual on fuel filter draining.
It's actually under the hood rather than at the filter itself as I'm used to.

I'll check when we pick up the Prism to see if this has carried over to later years, but it may be helpful.

[backdoctor]

Yes. Its a little difficult to find. As you face the engine its on the side of the cylinder block on the left. It's held in place with a small plastic c clamp. To drain fluid, you disengage the hose from the clamp and direct it downward. I put a 1 litre container under it. Turn the ignition to position 2 and the fuel pump will run for 30 seconds. Open the valve and ket some of the fuel/water out and then close. Discard the fuel as waste. I tend to burn it at our cottage, but I'm sure there are other options. Its a bit difficult to find the hose/valve even when you know approximately where it is.

[Byron in TX]

Thanks, backdoctor!


Page 247 in the '14 owner's manual for anyone who can't open the link.


I think this is some pretty obscure info....folks seem to think there's no way to sump or that changing the filter is the only option.


On my pickup truck, I've found this to be cheap insurance......every other fill up I drain (sump) a bit of fuel as you describe then dispose of as waste.


Since 06, never a hint of Water in Fuel. My friends with similar vehicles....no so lucky.


Thanks again.

[Still Kickin]

If you examine the end of the bleeder line, you will see there is a designed end that allows a tube to be friction fitted, to give you more length to direct the expelled fuel, if your trying to purge water or air after you're routine maint change out, when doing it unassisted.