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Old 06-29-2017, 06:51 PM   #1
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inverter install in sprinter

I need to add an inverter to my 2014 Coachmen Prism 2150, and need an access hole to thread the two battery cables ( 2 gauge) into the sink cabinet. I plan to mount the inverter on the inside wall next to the tank tester lights and the step and light switches, under the fold down cutting board. I added support for the 7 lb inverter already on the wall.

It appears the best path is from the cabinet through the floor, but I canít get behind the cabinet to verify the space is clear of wires and objects for a drill pathÖ. unless I cut some of the back cabinet out. I can reach pretty far in from the drawer under the oven, and maybe thatís the solution. There are ac vents in there though.

But is there a schematic that show the clear path to drill that cabinet floor through the under coach ? Are there floor boards or all metal on the coach floor, next to and above the LPG tank?

Also, what is the best sealing material after the cable is threaded Ö. I see big globs of white/clear material that sealed the original wire connections into the cabinet box.

thanks for the help.

regards
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:32 PM   #2
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Can you remove the furnace vent that's under the cabinet? My Solera has a drawer under the cabinet so I was able to remove that drawer to work under and behind it. My recollection is that there are lots of wires and things down there, so you really need to know where you're going to be drilling.

I'm not completely sure of your plan - are you wanting to drill from the area under the cabinet into the battery compartment so you can run cables directly from the battery to the inverter? Or do you have some other approach in mind? I think I hooked my inverter up to wiring that was already there under the cabinet - maybe to the main battery cutoff switch (or something like that...) Anyway, there may be some way to do what you want to do with very little drilling...

Dave
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:57 AM   #3
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Re:
Can you remove the furnace vent that's under the cabinet? My Solera has....

I'm not completely sure of your plan - are you wanting to drill from the area under the cabinet into the battery compartment so you can run cables directly from the battery to the inverter? Or do you have some other approach in mind? I think I hooked my inverter up to wiring that was already there under the cabinet - maybe to the main battery cutoff switch (or something like that...) Anyway, there may be some way to do what you want to do with very little drilling...

Dave[/QUOTE]

Hi Dave, thanks for the response.
There are two floor vent grills, below the bottom of the cabinet, I can remove to expose flexible a/c vents that come down from the a/c, taped in place with refrigerator tape. Don't want to puncture those vents. So no room there except behind the vents, as they curve towards the oven. That is where I prefer to drill straight down ( or up from the outside ), if I can reach a clear path.

The battery chamber is open already so no new holes needed there.
john
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Old 06-30-2017, 03:50 PM   #4
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In my Coachman Prism, there is a thin plywood panel at the back of the cabinet below the sink (behind the sink drain). Four screws hold the panel. The panel is very flexible; with care it can be bent just enough to remove and replace it from the cabinet (after first removing the screws). Behind that panel, in my Prism at least, are several wire access holes already there, including the coach battery cable. Perhaps, your coach is similar. I am thinking of adding an inverter exactly as you describe. I have the inverter, but haven't got to that project yet.
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Old 07-02-2017, 03:10 PM   #5
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I just had to replace the factory power converter on my Forester MBS (due to a DW caused flood). I took the opportunity to add a BMS. Yours may be different but on the Forester W, a whole bundle of wires pass through the floor under the drawer which is under the sink. It's sealed up at the factory with expanding foam.

Rather than drill a new hole, I pulled enough of the expanding foam away to push an electrical fish tape through that bundle. Then you securely tape your cables to the fish tape and pull it back through. Then I resealed it with pest resistant expanding foam from Walmart. Hope this helps your situation which I understand may be different.
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Old 07-02-2017, 03:12 PM   #6
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BTW, don't be afraid to disconnect the heater ducts at the vents and fold it out of the way. That material looks really flimsy but it's actually fairly strong. When I did that, I could see everything that was hidden behind it.
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:00 PM   #7
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Hi guys,
thanks all for the responses.

re: In my Coachman Prism, there is a thin plywood panel at the back of the cabinet below the sink (behind the sink drain). Four screws hold the panel. The panel is very flexible; with care it can be bent just enough to remove and replace it from the cabinet (after first removing the screws).
FollowTheSun

FollowTheSun, I hoped for that in my 2014, not so screwed in, but the panel was just stapled in. So I followed your method and carefully popped the panel loose and slid it over to access the space between that cabinet panel and the coach exterior. Then I could see the wires and clear space to use to drill up from the under carriage above the propane tank and offset from the steel beams to get a clean hole up through and behind the cabinet. I wiggled the battery cables to verify the placement underneath. The drill hole into the cabinet was simple after that, to bring the two cables into the cabinet to connect the inverter to the batteries. The battery chamber itself is pretty wide open, no drilling required.
The flooring is not metal, if you avoid the beams, but I did use a starter bit and then a larger bit to make room for the two 2gauge cables.

I wanted to preserve storage space, so mounted the inverter vertically on the cabinet wall, inverter plugins toward the doors, adding a support shelf and an outside panel to screw though.... although the cabinet wall is actually thick plywood, more sturdy than I expected. Vertical or horizontal install is fine as long as no debris can fall into the fan, tech support told me. ( Krieger Inverter, with a fuse and cable).

Attach the cables, including the rj11 remote cable, before tying down the inverter in place... obviously. The inverter is 11 inches long and the back won't be very accessible after screwing inverter in place.

I installed the remote near the coach door on the cabinet wall in clear space.... mark, drill corners, and jig saw the opening. Pop in the remote and screw down, after plugging in the rj11 cable.

Re:
Rather than drill a new hole, I pulled enough of the expanding foam away to push an electrical fish tape through that bundle. Then you securely tape your cables to the fish tape and pull it back through
bob5560g

bob5560g, good idea but that hole in my 2014 Prism wasn't large enough to do that.

regards
john
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