Lousy cover design for Gray/Black pulls

[namusmc]

I was going to use the magnet idea as the solution for the problem of the door popping open. But now I am attracted to your bungee cord solution. Sort of redneck engineering, but I love it!

[63timbo]

Picture of bungee with ring. The compartment attaches to a wood frame. So be aware you will drill through backing plate also.... pre-made bungees can be found at Walmart, HD, HF, etc.

[sailski]

Originally Posted by 63timbo

Mine spontaneously opened on my first trip. Very little bite for latch to grab plastic ramp. I just drilled a small hole through back of compartment and used a small diameter bungee to grab the latch from behind. I use the key as a grab handle to open door slightly and release bungee cord off latch hook. It has worked flawlessly. Easy cheap solution for me.

My solution to this was to drill a small hole in front of the slot on the top of the door frame where the cam of the lock engages and put a small sheet metal screw to extend the amount of material for the lock to grab. Now the existing lock keeps the door shut and works correctly. You can even adjust the screw out to hold better.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by 63timbo

Mine spontaneously opened on my first trip. Very little bite for latch to grab plastic ramp. I just drilled a small hole through back of compartment and used a small diameter bungee to grab the latch from behind. I use the key as a grab handle to open door slightly and release bungee cord off latch hook. It has worked flawlessly. Easy cheap solution for me.

A loose sheet metal screw often doesn't have much "bite." If you find that it works loose in the hole, you might want to replace it with a "Rivnut." They insert through material (including sheet metal) and are crimped so they expand behind the material. The internal hole is threaded for a machine screw.

You can maintain the adjustment capability by putting threadlocker on the machine screw and turning it part way in, or by putting a jam nut on it, and tightening the nut against the Rivnut.

Be gentle with aluminum rivnuts. It doesn't take much to overtighten them and strip out the internal threads. (Then you have to drill it out and use another one.) The installer looks like the Pop Rivet installer, but you must be much gentler. Maybe practice on a piece of scrap sheet metal first.

The sheet metal hinge screw holes on my son's storm door stripped and the door was dragging. They spun when tightened. We replaced them all with Rivnuts and machine screws and have not had further problems in a few years (except the machine screws needed threadlocker because they loosened due to the daily door usage.)

This is what I used:
https://www.harborfreight.com/45-pie...-kit-1210.html
It comes with plenty of rivets, but more can be purchased from HFT and other sources.

You can also get steel ones (not needed for the latch. They take A LOT more force--not even sure this lightweight tool would work--and are used in higher-strength applications.

[diane1433r]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

On the wider baggage doors on our Cherokee, there are two latches. One is a keyed CH751 latch. The other is simply a knob that turns. Since you don't care about locking, why not use one of those.



They come in various lengths, depending on the door thickness. Here are a 7/8" and a 1-1/8". Be sure to order one which matches your current latch.



The first one comes with two tongues. One is straight. The other one has an offset and can be installed either way, to make the door as snug as you like.



This one:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44323-T...=fsclp_pl_dp_1



or this one:

https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-0...=fsclp_pl_dp_4

I ordered the part but can’t figure out how to remove the old lock. Doesn’t screw off. Any ideas?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by diane1433r

I ordered the part but can’t figure out how to remove the old lock. Doesn’t screw off. Any ideas?

Can you post a picture of the old lock?

Easiest way is
1) Take one or more pictures
2) Put them on your computer (Email them to yourself if necessary)
3) Open a post like this.
4) Click the paperclip icon at the top of this editor
5) A dialog will open.
6) Click "Choose File" on the first line. Browse to and select the first picture.
7) Repeat step 6 up to four more times if you have more pictures.
8) Click Upload
9) When the upload completes, click "Close this window."

Or maybe you can find a picture of it on the internet and send a link.

What's on the back side? On the locks I recommended, you a) Unscrew the tongue, and b) Unscrew the nut on the back side. (If you could unscrew it from the front side, anyone could open the door.)

[diane1433r]

Attachment 1

[sailski]

Originally Posted by diane1433r

Attachment 220382Attachment 1

To remove this cam lock you must squeeze together the 2 black tabs on both sides of the lock with pliers and push the lock out. There is no nut or clip holding the lock in place. You can then install the new lock on the door.

However, I think you bought a lock that is 1/2 or 1/4 inches longer (for a thicker door) which can mean the door may not be completely closed when the lock is engaged. You may be able to first insert a ring(s) under the outside face of the lock or use one of the bent cams (tongue) to compensate. The cam provided may be longer and need to be cut. Make sure it is slightly longer than the old one since the problem was the cam not engaging in the slot. That's why I found it simpler to add a screw to the frame that gives the cam of the lock something else to engage.

Bob Fraser CML
ALOA Certified Master Locksmith, Retired

PS: In my 50 years of locksmithing I found cabinet locks more frustrating to install than door locks since you can't see inside when things are not working as expected.

[diane1433r]

Originally Posted by sailski

To remove this cam lock you must squeeze together the 2 black tabs on both sides of the lock with pliers and push the lock out. There is no nut or clip holding the lock in place. You can then install the new lock on the door.

However, I think you bought a lock that is 1/2 or 1/4 inches longer (for a thicker door) which can mean the door may not be completely closed when the lock is engaged. You may be able to first insert a ring(s) under the outside face of the lock or use one of the bent cams (tongue) to compensate. The cam provided may be longer and need to be cut. Make sure it is slightly longer than the old one since the problem was the cam not engaging in the slot. That's why I found it simpler to add a screw to the frame that gives the cam of the lock something else to engage.

Bob Fraser CML
ALOA Certified Master Locksmith, Retired

PS: In my 50 years of locksmithing I found cabinet locks more frustrating to install than door locks since you can't see inside when things are not working as expected.

Thanks, Bob

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by sailski

To remove this cam lock you must squeeze together the 2 black tabs on both sides of the lock with pliers and push the lock out. There is no nut or clip holding the lock in place. You can then install the new lock on the door.

However, I think you bought a lock that is 1/2 or 1/4 inches longer (for a thicker door) which can mean the door may not be completely closed when the lock is engaged. You may be able to first insert a ring(s) under the outside face of the lock or use one of the bent cams (tongue) to compensate. The cam provided may be longer and need to be cut. Make sure it is slightly longer than the old one since the problem was the cam not engaging in the slot. That's why I found it simpler to add a screw to the frame that gives the cam of the lock something else to engage.

Bob Fraser CML
ALOA Certified Master Locksmith, Retired

PS: In my 50 years of locksmithing I found cabinet locks more frustrating to install than door locks since you can't see inside when things are not working as expected.

Diane, the locks I suggested come in various lengths. When you have the lock out, measure from the back side of the outside flange to the back side of the tongue. Order a threaded lock of the same length. Amazon is very good about returns. If you order one and it's a bit too short or too long, return it and get the next size.

As Bob says, it can be frustrating, but the locks come in several lengths and you should be able to find one that fits. Also, don't forget that they come with two tongues: a straight one and an offset one. You can try the straight one, and you can try the offset one in either of two positions: three different ways. This gives you a certain amount of adjustment.

[diane1433r]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Diane, the locks I suggested come in various lengths. When you have the lock out, measure from the back side of the outside flange to the back side of the tongue. Order a threaded lock of the same length. Amazon is very good about returns. If you order one and it's a bit too short or too long, return it and get the next size.



As Bob says, it can be frustrating, but the locks come in several lengths and you should be able to find one that fits. Also, don't forget that they come with two tongues: a straight one and an offset one. You can try the straight one, and you can try the offset one in either of two positions: three different ways. This gives you a certain amount of adjustment.

Thanks for the help Larry.

[diane1433r]

Originally Posted by diane1433r

Thanks for the help Larry.

Update on the lock and door- got it installed and works great! Thanks to both of you.