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Old 10-29-2019, 09:06 AM   #1
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Lousy cover design for Gray/Black pulls

I've had nothing but issues with the stupid lock that keeps the cover door closed over the black/gray tank pulls (751 key hasn't worked in years). I've tried fixing it...fail...paid the dealer to fix it...fail... and now I just use electrical tape to keep it closed. But one good gust hits it the right way and it flops open.

Surely I'm not the only one with this problem. Can you share any tips/fixes you've tried that lasted more than a couple of months? I couldn't care less if it actually locked (not worried about someone sabotaging me), just want a latch of sorts to actually keep it closed.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Santos
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:09 AM   #2
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How about a magnetic latch?
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:37 AM   #3
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Just wondering if the lock can't just be changed out since you said the 751 key hasn't worked in years? But maybe I missed something else in the post, and if so, nevermind.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:40 AM   #4
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Even when the lock did work, it barely made contact with the little plastic "catch" inside that compartment. Then the lock broke (stopped turning), I paid the dealer to replace it and during the next trip it sporadically opened up. The design is just trash really.

**Love the idea of using magnets, thanks!**
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:38 PM   #5
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Two kinds of latches

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Originally Posted by Santos1060 View Post
Even when the lock did work, it barely made contact with the little plastic "catch" inside that compartment. Then the lock broke (stopped turning), I paid the dealer to replace it and during the next trip it sporadically opened up. The design is just trash really.

**Love the idea of using magnets, thanks!**
On the wider baggage doors on our Cherokee, there are two latches. One is a keyed CH751 latch. The other is simply a knob that turns. Since you don't care about locking, why not use one of those.

They come in various lengths, depending on the door thickness. Here are a 7/8" and a 1-1/8". Be sure to order one which matches your current latch.

The first one comes with two tongues. One is straight. The other one has an offset and can be installed either way, to make the door as snug as you like.

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44323-T...=fsclp_pl_dp_1

or this one:
https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-0...=fsclp_pl_dp_4
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:42 PM   #6
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PERFECT, this is exactly what I was thinking I'd use to fill the spot. I really appreciate the suggestion and links to the parts!!!! Made my day...thank you!
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Old 10-29-2019, 01:59 PM   #7
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I have a similar issue. The gray handle protrudes slightly and makes the door really hard to latch. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
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Old 10-29-2019, 02:09 PM   #8
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I have a 2017 Forester MBS 2401WS with that same door and lock. The cam barely engages in the slot in the frame of the door and the door frequently opens as you drive. My solution was to drill a small hole in front of the slot and put a #8 sheet metal screw in the hole. Now there is an additional place for the cam on the lock to engage and positively lock the door.

I'm unsure what your problem with the lock is though since you said it's broken. Does the key not turn? Perhaps some lock lubricant would solve that problem. My initial solution was a longer cam but the cam is peaned on and not easily replaced. The replacements I found were all longer than 5/8" that the original measures. That would either make the lock stick out so the cam was correctly engaged or prevent the door from being completely closed when locked.

The magnetic catch idea could solve the problem. In my career as a locksmith I have found that sometimes the best solution is the simplest and adapting a fastener designed for a wood door to a plastic one is frustratingly difficult to attach securely and professionally and hard to align when you can't see or feel inside where the problem is. That's why, after much research and procrastination I went with the 10 cent screw.
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Old 10-29-2019, 02:20 PM   #9
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I have a similar issue. The gray handle protrudes slightly and makes the door really hard to latch. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
The handles can be adjusted. They are attached to a cable that leads to the valves located on the curb side. The cable can be shortened or adjusted at the valve to prevent the handle on the street side from a sticking out so far that it prevents the door from closing. You have to get underneath to see what's happening.
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:06 PM   #10
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Thanks. I have not crawled underneath to look at the valve yet. I was hoping it could be resolved from outside. My old body doesn’t crawl very well any longer so I guess a creeper is on my shopping list.
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:54 PM   #11
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Picture?

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Originally Posted by medalguy View Post
I have a similar issue. The gray handle protrudes slightly and makes the door really hard to latch. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
I can't visualize this. Could you post a picture?
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:08 PM   #12
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Thanks. I have not crawled underneath to look at the valve yet. I was hoping it could be resolved from outside. My old body doesn’t crawl very well any longer so I guess a creeper is on my shopping list.
At 75 years old I can relate to that. Before I knew about the adjustment at the other end of the problem I solved the problem by removing the handle; cutting the aluminum piece it was attached to shorter; drilling deeper and re-tapping the hole for the machine screw that holds the handle on and putting the handle back on. I think adjusting the cable is an easier solution. I don,t have a creeper any more but I found my patio carpet works well when I need to get under my motorhome. Maybe you have a younger family member or friend that could help you out.
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:35 PM   #13
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Flattened big cardboard box

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At 75 years old I can relate to that. Before I knew about the adjustment at the other end of the problem I solved the problem by removing the handle; cutting the aluminum piece it was attached to shorter; drilling deeper and re-tapping the hole for the machine screw that holds the handle on and putting the handle back on. I think adjusting the cable is an easier solution. I don,t have a creeper any more but I found my patio carpet works well when I need to get under my motorhome. Maybe you have a younger family member or friend that could help you out.
Next time you have a big cardboard box, flatten it and save it. They are easier to slide in and out on than a carpet. And if you spill oil or antifreeze on it, you can just wait for another one to appear.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:17 PM   #14
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Next time you have a big cardboard box, flatten it and save it. They are easier to slide in and out on than a carpet. And if you spill oil or antifreeze on it, you can just wait for another one to appear.
Being completely politically incorrect ... I think that is referred to as a Mexican creeper.
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:05 PM   #15
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Having never seen a reason to have the cover to my dump handles locked, I replaced the locking mechanism with a simple thumb turn-latch similar to the one on the cover at the outside spray hose connection and the other door that is used for sewer hose storage. Rather than plastic, however, I opted for a metal latch assembly, readily available at most hardware vendors.
No other RV I have owned, other than my current MBS...and I have had other MB based rigs...had a locking door to the dump handles.
If I were going to worry about anyone messing with the exterior of my rig, I'd be MUCH more concerned about the accessibility to the fresh water tank fill port!
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:39 PM   #16
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My access door does the same
spontaneously opening up routine. I was going to use the sheet metal screw repair method but the magnet idea really attracts me.
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Old 11-02-2019, 06:39 AM   #17
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"I have a similar issue. The gray handle protrudes slightly and makes the door really hard to latch. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?"

Could just be a lack of lubrication on the cable.

Motorcycle shops sell cable lubricant and lubricators.

If there is any slope to the cable green antifreeze and an oil can may do the trick
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:50 AM   #18
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"I have a similar issue. The gray handle protrudes slightly and makes the door really hard to latch. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?"
This unfortunately has been covered over and over on this forum. All FR has to do in production is shorten these cables which they clearly won't spend the labor to do. They just curve them back and forth on the frame which makes it hard for them to extend and retract. I have had issues with all of my dump valves and pulls since day 1. As you can see it's a sore spot with me.
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:20 PM   #19
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replaced latch

Keyed the waste cover is dumb.. First trip w/ my '16 we took the set of keys w/o that key, not good...


Finally decided to replace it w/ a non-keyed latch. Got
Camco 44323 7/8" Thumb Operated Offset Cam Lock


off Amazon, but still didn't fit. But there is a solution.


Look at the back of the keyed latch you removed.. the latch is attached w/ deformed metal, not a screw. Use a file to remove that metal, and it exposes just the latch, which fits on the new Camco latch w/ a screw. Almost perfect, certainly works.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:56 PM   #20
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Bungee fix

Mine spontaneously opened on my first trip. Very little bite for latch to grab plastic ramp. I just drilled a small hole through back of compartment and used a small diameter bungee to grab the latch from behind. I use the key as a grab handle to open door slightly and release bungee cord off latch hook. It has worked flawlessly. Easy cheap solution for me.
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