New owners of 2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W!

[RFGTLG]

Originally Posted by vitaeast

I'm probably in the wrong place! Can anyone help me sleep tonight by telling me where the valve is that supposedly needs to be turned on so I can use the outdoor spray?

Sunseeker 2400R MBS Thanks much!

Yep. Wrong place but r u talking about
The shower? If so, if on city water, should work. If not, need water in the storage tank and water pump on.

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by Iceman from McMurdo

Eureka - problem solved! Thanks (again) to Danny at Precision Circuits (ext 704), we worked our way backwards thru the BIM input wiring and found the culprit... Underneath the coach and up behind the stairwell where the BIM wiring harness connects to everything, I found an orange wire (provides the 12v signal from the ignition) had become disconnected.

It wasn't immediately obvious because all the wires are bundled inside a 1" plastic wiring protector, but there it was - plain as day (see attached pic)! Looks like it happened as a result of the wires being cut too short to begin with, then a poor crimping job, and then compounded by road vibration. Simply spliced in an extra few inches of wire and reconnected - problem SOLVED! However, just goes to prove even brand new coaches can and DO have little glitches that must be addressed.

Hate to think how long my brand new RV would have sat in a dealer's lot just waiting to be seen, much less fixed... Pays to know how to use a few basic troubleshooting tools! I'm a Happy Camper again!!

Congrats on working your way through an intermittent failure and figuring out the problem.

Don't know what the issue is with FR and the poor crimps - I cooked a coach battery as a result of a poor factory crimp at one of the high amp CB's in the battery compartment.

I suspect a dealer would have ordered a whole bunch of parts after waiting for months for approval. It's a shame we have to deal with the poor QC on these expensive motorhomes. Glad you have the persistence and skills to fix it yourself!

[Iceman from McMurdo]

Just goes to prove the value of this forum. Kudos to KatanaPilot for providing the link to his previous experience and the helpful mention of the Tech Line at Precision Circuits. They were eager to help and very direct in their troubleshooting advice. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure a lot of this stuff out - just some good old-fashioned networking and sharing of past experience. Thanks to all for the constructive inputs!

[FFred]

"then a poor crimping job,"

The only reason for a poor crimp is the use of poor tools.

A connection must be made both mechanically and electrically.

The auto crap $5.00 crimpers does a poor job of both.

A marine grade crimper is more expensive but will not open unless the crimp is correct.

AS the underside of most RV get wetter than the inside of most vessels , the use of marine terminal ends would help reliability a great deal.

Ancor 701030 Double Crimp Tool


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[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by FFred

"then a poor crimping job,"

The only reason for a poor crimp is the use of poor tools.

A connection must be made both mechanically and electrically.

The auto crap $5.00 crimpers does a poor job of both.

A marine grade crimper is more expensive but will not open unless the crimp is correct.



Ancor 701030 Double Crimp Tool



4.3 out of 5 stars 38 customer reviews



Price: $67.95 & FREE Shipping. Details

Yes, and FR uses the $20 hammer type swage crimpers on the battery cables too - instead of the hydraulic type that can cost a few hundred dollars. That cost me a $200 battery when the crimp came loose.

Guess they are on a tight budget so WB and PL can make their numbers

[FFred]

Its not the initial cost of tools

but the fact that in a big shop good stuff tends to grow legs.

Either a tool room , checking out each tool daily to an individual ,

or purchasing enough for all the workers gets expensive.

[BluStreek]

Originally Posted by BluStreek

I've scanned the 2400W thread and have a few q's for the recent owners...

dot dot dot
Thanks to all who may reply in advance!

Save

Thanks to the help and advice to all that'd responded... We did a walk through yesterday, but thanks to the bank fumbling the loan closing a bit, we'll be picking up the RV next Saturday. FYI, the newer (late 2017) 2400WS had metal valve extensions installed on the rear tires, with short rubber on the fronts. Seat boosters for the front seats are included as others had noted a year or so ago, too. No obvious LPG takeoff on the unit. Not a biggie. It looks like what's included with the RV varies with Forest River's whims and inventory over the course of the production run. The unit has a Helwig sway bar, an optional outside TV (a diminutive Furrion 12volt), and a similarly small bedroom 12 volt Furrion TV amongst other things (Arctic package, rear stabilizer jacks, etc.) Fingers crossed!

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by FFred

Its not the initial cost of tools

but the fact that in a big shop good stuff tends to grow legs.

Either a tool room , checking out each tool daily to an individual ,

or purchasing enough for all the workers gets expensive.

Even small companies have a tool crib. If the worker was on the hook for a hundred dollar crimp tool, I bet they would return it.

Battery cables could easily be pre-made using proper crimps and adhesive heat shrink tubing. That's how I make mine, even for a lowly golf cart. It doesn't take much longer to do it right.

Reminds me of the expression from an earlier employer of mine "We never have time to do it right, so we have to find the time to do it over." Probably doesn't apply here since the "do it over" seems to fall to the dealers, or more likely - the purchaser.

[Mtnman64]

Originally Posted by BluStreek

Thanks to the help and advice to all that'd responded... We did a walk through yesterday, but thanks to the bank fumbling the loan closing a bit, we'll be picking up the RV next Saturday. FYI, the newer (late 2017) 2400WS had metal valve extensions installed on the rear tires, with short rubber on the fronts. Seat boosters for the front seats are included as others had noted a year or so ago, too. No obvious LPG takeoff on the unit. Not a biggie. It looks like what's included with the RV varies with Forest River's whims and inventory over the course of the production run. The unit has a Helwig sway bar, an optional outside TV (a diminutive Furrion 12volt), and a similarly small bedroom 12 volt Furrion TV amongst other things (Arctic package, rear stabilizer jacks, etc.) Fingers crossed!

Took delivery of our 2400WS 1-13-17 and have accumulated almost 2000 miles. The digital thermostat is off quite a bit, but no other problems as yet. I just put a set of armrest pads on the cab doors, as we ready for a 3K trip to Canada in just 2 weeks. Will attempt a month in it, up Nort with one 8YO grandson and a 120lb Rottie. A 17ft Lund in tow will lower the 15-16mpg we have been getting w/o a toad, but should still be better than the V10.

Safe travels

[Iceman from McMurdo]

OK, new owner of a 2018 Sunseeker 2400W here and got a head-scratcher for the forum to ponder (and hopefully help answer). Did our PDI last month and dealer did NOT know what this was - no biggie, but now I'm curious...

Talking about a little gray circular thing mounted on the entry stairwell just above the switches for outside lts, stablizer jacks, etc. Appears to have a little sensor or something right in the middle - see attached photos (front & rear views included).

As I look at it from the rear, I see it has has a label that says it's made by Mallory and has two electrical terminals (+ and -), but only ONE wire attached.

Anybody know the answer???

[sgtlm17]

Originally Posted by Iceman from McMurdo

OK, new owner of a 2018 Sunseeker 2400W here and got a head-scratcher for the forum to ponder (and hopefully help answer). Did our PDI last month and dealer did NOT know what this was - no biggie, but now I'm curious...

Talking about a little gray circular thing mounted on the entry stairwell just above the switches for outside lts, stablizer jacks, etc. Appears to have a little sensor or something right in the middle - see attached photos (front & rear views included).

As I look at it from the rear, I see it has has a label that says it's made by Mallory and has two electrical terminals (+ and -), but only ONE wire attached.

Anybody know the answer???

It's an alarm if you try to drive away with your Jack's down.

[Iceman from McMurdo]

Aha, thanks for the quick reply! That would certainly make sense based on its location! Just wondering then, shouldn't it have connections to both terminals on the back (+ and -) for it to operate??

[chroniekon]

yes

[BobCats]

That disk or alarm was not mentioned in my PDI as was many other features. I plan to check it out and report back on the two wires or one and since I plan to move the RV today I'll see if it works as (sgtim17) has suggested.

[BobCats]

Originally Posted by BobCats

That disk or alarm was not mentioned in my PDI as was many other features. I plan to check it out and report back on the two wires or one and since I plan to move the RV today I'll see if it works as (sgtim17) has suggested.

That circular detail near the electric stabilization jacks is an alarm and has a high pitched sound if your jacks are down and you start engine.
My also didn't work. I removed the pull out draw under the sink and found only one wire connected. There was a loose wire (black w/white strip) that may have been pulled out when the draw was installed. Plug it into the back of the alarm and it should now work.

[Iceman from McMurdo]

Yep, as suspected, once the mysterious gray disc was identified as the stab jack alarm, it was an easy process to remove the lower drawer to access the wiring bundles and find the errant wire that was missing.

In my case, the black & white striped wire WAS connected, but the other required yellow wire was NOT. I found it stuffed under the wiring bundle at the very back, so it was either never connected properly at the factory or perhaps deliberately removed for drawer installation and just never reconnected. At any rate, simply placed it back on the open spade terminal and problem solved. THANKS to all!

PS - Kinda felt stupid even asking the original question, but just goes to prove the value of asking anyway, and taking advantage of the collective wisdom of this wonderful forum. Without asking, I'd never even known there WAS a stab jack alarm, much less one that wasn't operational. Appears the problem isn't an isolated incident either, as others noted similar issues. If you've never checked yours, better get out there and do so...

Happy Trails!

[sgtlm17]

No stupid questions here. We are all here to learn and help each other. Every member is valuable to this forum. I'm glad you asked because I am sure others have the same question. So you inadvertently me have helped them.

[Mikegjax]

I just listen for the scrapping noise as I pull out. No scrapping, their up

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by Iceman from McMurdo

In my case, the black & white striped wire WAS connected, but the other required yellow wire was NOT. I found it stuffed under the wiring bundle at the very back, so it was either never connected properly at the factory or perhaps deliberately removed for drawer installation and just never reconnected.

I have a 2015 Solera 24R, and have been inside, outside, underneath, and above. I have repaired/replaced/upgraded a number of components either because I was not happy with FR's choice, it was broken, it didn't have something it needed, or there was a better way to do it. It includes mechanical, electrical, plumbing, etc.
I can say without hesitation that although FR has built a decent unit, their weakness is everything electrical. Bad connections, bad locations for things, no access to some things, and no sense of doing it neatly and wire-tying things. Look underneath your coach if you want to see some examples !

[flocktothewall]

Originally Posted by Mikegjax

I just listen for the scrapping noise as I pull out. No scrapping, their up

Ditto. I've done it more than once.