New owners of 2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W!

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

Did you have any RV weight issues? Did you have it weighed? We are finding that we are maxed out on the GVWR with a few very modest add-ons and a bunch of stuff in the basement compartments. No bikes or toad or compressor. Just some cables, hoses, outdoor area rug, EMS box, and a small electric heater which we will probably leave behind.


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

We only have 925 pounds of useful load according to the FR supplied sticker in the door jam. Doesn't take much "stuff" to exceed that. Unlike my airplane, I don't think it's illegal to overload it some, but I know that it's not prudent. If I ever do have it weighed, I expect the solution to being overweight will be to store more of the stuff in the Toad and less in the MH.

Given the limited payload of the MBS chassis, I dare say most of us operate overweight much of the time.

[Rkloud9]

I did weigh mine completely loaded with me, wife, dog, full water, full LP, bike, all our stuff, at a truck stop 1000 miles into the trip... Almost 500 lbs overweight, all on the rear axle. Yikes!
The basement compartments still have loads of room in them, so I guess it could be even worse. We stopped carrying full water (now 1/4). We have also learned what we do not need after this first trip. It would be pretty difficult to travel with a family of 4 and not overload the boat!

[bclemens]

In MFG's defense...we try and try to cut weight.

Quality is heavy and options are heavy, so its not all on the MFG. I just got a lot of weight pulled from our 2 point stabilizer and yet now everyone wants a 4 point. I offer up a radius top, plastic shower curtain and about 99% option a glass shower door adding 70lbs.

We try and let everyone pick and choose options, balancing what is important, but what ends up happening is they take every single option and reduce the CCC.

[Rkloud9]

Hey BClemens!
Pretty much every MB class C that we looked at was in the same CCC class as your/our SunSeeker. Our copy is 1040 lbs, and for sure the Winnebago we were considering was about the same. It sounds like a lot, and being new to this game, we really just loaded it with what we thought we needed and headed out. Thanks for your attention to this forum, and your response here.


Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by bclemens

In MFG's defense...we try and try to cut weight.

Quality is heavy and options are heavy, so its not all on the MFG. I just got a lot of weight pulled from our 2 point stabilizer and yet now everyone wants a 4 point. I offer up a radius top, plastic shower curtain and about 99% option a glass shower door adding 70lbs.

We try and let everyone pick and choose options, balancing what is important, but what ends up happening is they take every single option and reduce the CCC.

I don't blame FR really - the unit is loaded for the chassis it's on. It's more not realizing that 1000# goes very quickly! We have things we can leave behind if we get any closer to the max. E.g., electric space heater, nice to have when we are plugged in for when it's cold (headed to Canada soon) but if we can't bring it, we'll use the built-in furnace and just have to buy more propane when needed. Extra hose - nice to have but if need be we'll live without it. Power cord 75' of extensions - those weigh a ton but we have to have them for Canadian parks where the boxes in many cases are 90m away!

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

I did weigh mine completely loaded with me, wife, dog, full water, full LP, bike, all our stuff, at a truck stop 1000 miles into the trip... Almost 500 lbs overweight, all on the rear axle. Yikes!
The basement compartments still have loads of room in them, so I guess it could be even worse. We stopped carrying full water (now 1/4). We have also learned what we do not need after this first trip. It would be pretty difficult to travel with a family of 4 and not overload the boat!

Thanks for the info. I feel your pain.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

We only have 925 pounds of useful load according to the FR supplied sticker in the door jam. Doesn't take much "stuff" to exceed that. Unlike my airplane, I don't think it's illegal to overload it some, but I know that it's not prudent. If I ever do have it weighed, I expect the solution to being overweight will be to store more of the stuff in the Toad and less in the MH.

Given the limited payload of the MBS chassis, I dare say most of us operate overweight much of the time.

We have weighed twice and will weigh once more after loading full food, beverages and clothing before hitting the big road. Among the problems being over the GVWR are breaking components, warranty concerns, liability concerns if unable to stop soon enough and hit someone, and flat tires. It's all engineered to a spec for a reason so we'll live within the ratings. That might put us in the minority, I have no idea. I suspect most don't even weigh or even have much idea of the issue if they don't participate in a forum like this. I learn new stuff here every day!

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by bclemens

In MFG's defense...we try and try to cut weight.

Quality is heavy and options are heavy, so its not all on the MFG. I just got a lot of weight pulled from our 2 point stabilizer and yet now everyone wants a 4 point. I offer up a radius top, plastic shower curtain and about 99% option a glass shower door adding 70lbs.

We try and let everyone pick and choose options, balancing what is important, but what ends up happening is they take every single option and reduce the CCC.

I have only performed a cursory look underneath the MH, but a couple things I found might be ripe for a weight reduction plan -

1. There seemed to be a good bit of square steel tubing in the frame that possibly could be replaced by aluminum? Yes, I know it's more expensive and you have to TIG weld aluminum.
2. Some of the gas lines were black iron pipe. Why not use lighter weight CSST pipe or equivalent? Since it's flexible, it would be easy to install.

Wild guess but there is probably 50-75 pounds right here.

[Wrightwood]

We've weighed ours a few times
.
Door sticker GVWR 11,030 lbs

1st time was right after leaving PDI. No passengers, no cargo, full diesel and full LPG: 10,060 lbs

2nd time after we had put some "basic" supplies for our 1st overnight (nothing overboard for 2 people). 1 passenger, full diesel, full LPG, full fresh water and essential cords, sewer connections: 11,020 lbs (that didn't include me as I was in paying for the scale charges) (lesson learned: don't fill fresh water tank)

Don't expect to take 4 people, pet, clothing, food, bedding, fuel and water and not exceed GVWR.

[Wrightwood]

I did forget to mention on 2nd weight it included a small tool box, Viair air compressor, 2 meter ham radio and a 5lb fire extinguisher but I consider those essential safety equipment.

[gp2down]

We're new 2400W owners and are going on a western loop through many of the Nat parks for 6 weeks from Georgia.
Wondering if any of you have found good info on maintenance for the 3500 Sprinter...I see no schedules in the very general manual. Anybody heard of the need to realign the front end after 5 or 10,000mi? Read it was needed, since original alignment is done on the chassis before the box is added. Also, anybody using stabilizing jacks in front of the unit along with the rear electric jacks?
We have only been out for a couple of weekend trips, but so far we love our 2400W. Will summarize big trip on our return in July. Thanks for all the tips!

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by gp2down

We're new 2400W owners and are going on a western loop through many of the Nat parks for 6 weeks from Georgia.
Wondering if any of you have found good info on maintenance for the 3500 Sprinter...I see no schedules in the very general manual. Anybody heard of the need to realign the front end after 5 or 10,000mi? Read it was needed, since original alignment is done on the chassis before the box is added. Also, anybody using stabilizing jacks in front of the unit along with the rear electric jacks?
We have only been out for a couple of weekend trips, but so far we love our 2400W. Will summarize big trip on our return in July. Thanks for all the tips!

The "maintenance manual" should have been provided to you. Here is a link http://assets.mbvans.com/Mercedes-Be...nce-Manual.pdf

If you add front stabilizers, keep an eye on your MH weight. Most of us are finding we are overweight with just the basic stuff and passenger(s). We don't have the stabilizers although they would be nice. We can't really afford the loss of payload.

We will be doing the same drive from Georgia later this summer. Hope it goes well for you.

[Rkloud9]

Re: MB maintenance, the manuals we got were pretty extensive. I believe the the first scheduled maintenance is after 20,000 miles or 1 year, and is mostly the oil change. On our just completed 3300 mile trip, at 2500 miles the strangest orange dash light came on (looked like water drops above waves) causing immediate panic and a quick stop in Western Louisiana. Turns out it was the "low DEF warning". There is a 4.3 gallon DEF tank, and this was telling me it was down to 1.8 Gallons... Conveniently, the stuff is sold in 2.5 gallon containers (2 for $25 at AutoZone). Really easy to fill, and we found a joint that served pretty nice Cajun food.


Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[gp2down]

Thanks for link...not much to do for a while. We are in Flowery Branch...you?

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by gp2down

Thanks for link...not much to do for a while. We are in Flowery Branch...you?

Half the year in Locust Grove, half in Sandestin, FL.

Safe travels!

[dogpa]

When it comes to the adding of weight i.e. Stabilizers, one might consider losing either the shower door or back slider at least in the 24 R. I did the door and it was over 40 lbs and way easier to maneuver around bed.

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by dogpa

When it comes to the adding of weight i.e. Stabilizers, one might consider losing either the shower door or back slider at least in the 24 R. I did the door and it was over 40 lbs and way easier to maneuver around bed.

I replace the shower door with the aluminum/vinyl SEA door, and it is a very nice upgrade. After completing the replacement it occurred to me that you could also just uninstall the glass shower door assembly, caulk the screw holes, and use a shower rod and vinyl curtain in its place very easily.

The glass shower door is really overkill in my opinion.

[Rkloud9]

Re: the glass shower door, note that BClemens mentioned in his post on this thread that people were choosing options like the glass shower door, even though they offered the (lighter weight) curtain... Dealers order what they think will sell, and 2400W we saw on the lot had the glass door... Little things can make a big difference in the purchase process, and the shower was a big deal for DH. I did not even know the unit could be had with a curtain, and there was no discussion of this while we were looking at it. Our dealer was only stocking SunSeeker MBS 2400W's with full body paint and glass shower doors (and probably other items we did not know were options). The only upgrades offered were the AC that included the heat pump, the diesel generator, and the side view cameras.


Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[mtnlvr]

Speaking of the glass shower door; have any of you had problems with the flimsy plastic latch? Mine broke and had to be replaced. The heavy weight of tbe glass door while driving and bouncing around can pop the latch open.

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by mtnlvr

Speaking of the glass shower door; have any of you had problems with the flimsy plastic latch? Mine broke and had to be replaced. The heavy weight of tbe glass door while driving and bouncing around can pop the latch open.

Our shower door latch broke on our 2nd trip. I could not find the latch online, so I had to order it from a dealer. It cost more than $9. The fact that it broke, and a thread I had just read about 'weight' and the SEA shower door, convinced me to replace it. I like the SEA door - it looks good, fits well, and locks well, but essentially is a $130 bowed curtain rod and curtain.