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Old 04-26-2016, 04:13 PM   #31
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We're new 2400W owners and are going on a western loop through many of the Nat parks for 6 weeks from Georgia.
Wondering if any of you have found good info on maintenance for the 3500 Sprinter...I see no schedules in the very general manual. Anybody heard of the need to realign the front end after 5 or 10,000mi? Read it was needed, since original alignment is done on the chassis before the box is added. Also, anybody using stabilizing jacks in front of the unit along with the rear electric jacks?
We have only been out for a couple of weekend trips, but so far we love our 2400W. Will summarize big trip on our return in July. Thanks for all the tips!
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:28 PM   #32
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Should be in glove box

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We're new 2400W owners and are going on a western loop through many of the Nat parks for 6 weeks from Georgia.
Wondering if any of you have found good info on maintenance for the 3500 Sprinter...I see no schedules in the very general manual. Anybody heard of the need to realign the front end after 5 or 10,000mi? Read it was needed, since original alignment is done on the chassis before the box is added. Also, anybody using stabilizing jacks in front of the unit along with the rear electric jacks?
We have only been out for a couple of weekend trips, but so far we love our 2400W. Will summarize big trip on our return in July. Thanks for all the tips!
The "maintenance manual" should have been provided to you. Here is a link http://assets.mbvans.com/Mercedes-Be...nce-Manual.pdf

If you add front stabilizers, keep an eye on your MH weight. Most of us are finding we are overweight with just the basic stuff and passenger(s). We don't have the stabilizers although they would be nice. We can't really afford the loss of payload.

We will be doing the same drive from Georgia later this summer. Hope it goes well for you.
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:52 PM   #33
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Re: MB maintenance, the manuals we got were pretty extensive. I believe the the first scheduled maintenance is after 20,000 miles or 1 year, and is mostly the oil change. On our just completed 3300 mile trip, at 2500 miles the strangest orange dash light came on (looked like water drops above waves) causing immediate panic and a quick stop in Western Louisiana. Turns out it was the "low DEF warning". There is a 4.3 gallon DEF tank, and this was telling me it was down to 1.8 Gallons... Conveniently, the stuff is sold in 2.5 gallon containers (2 for $25 at AutoZone). Really easy to fill, and we found a joint that served pretty nice Cajun food.


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Old 04-27-2016, 10:30 AM   #34
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Thanks for link...not much to do for a while. We are in Flowery Branch...you?
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:36 AM   #35
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Thanks for link...not much to do for a while. We are in Flowery Branch...you?
Half the year in Locust Grove, half in Sandestin, FL.

Safe travels!
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:57 AM   #36
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When it comes to the adding of weight i.e. Stabilizers, one might consider losing either the shower door or back slider at least in the 24 R. I did the door and it was over 40 lbs and way easier to maneuver around bed.
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Old 04-27-2016, 02:12 PM   #37
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I replaced the glass shower door, but you could actually just do away with it

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When it comes to the adding of weight i.e. Stabilizers, one might consider losing either the shower door or back slider at least in the 24 R. I did the door and it was over 40 lbs and way easier to maneuver around bed.
I replace the shower door with the aluminum/vinyl SEA door, and it is a very nice upgrade. After completing the replacement it occurred to me that you could also just uninstall the glass shower door assembly, caulk the screw holes, and use a shower rod and vinyl curtain in its place very easily.

The glass shower door is really overkill in my opinion.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:56 PM   #38
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Re: the glass shower door, note that BClemens mentioned in his post on this thread that people were choosing options like the glass shower door, even though they offered the (lighter weight) curtain... Dealers order what they think will sell, and 2400W we saw on the lot had the glass door... Little things can make a big difference in the purchase process, and the shower was a big deal for DH. I did not even know the unit could be had with a curtain, and there was no discussion of this while we were looking at it. Our dealer was only stocking SunSeeker MBS 2400W's with full body paint and glass shower doors (and probably other items we did not know were options). The only upgrades offered were the AC that included the heat pump, the diesel generator, and the side view cameras.


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Old 04-27-2016, 11:34 PM   #39
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Speaking of the glass shower door; have any of you had problems with the flimsy plastic latch? Mine broke and had to be replaced. The heavy weight of tbe glass door while driving and bouncing around can pop the latch open.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:45 AM   #40
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YES

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Speaking of the glass shower door; have any of you had problems with the flimsy plastic latch? Mine broke and had to be replaced. The heavy weight of tbe glass door while driving and bouncing around can pop the latch open.
Our shower door latch broke on our 2nd trip. I could not find the latch online, so I had to order it from a dealer. It cost more than $9. The fact that it broke, and a thread I had just read about 'weight' and the SEA shower door, convinced me to replace it. I like the SEA door - it looks good, fits well, and locks well, but essentially is a $130 bowed curtain rod and curtain.
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