New owners of 2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W!

[BluStreek]

May help those contemplating something similar... Ours is used for clothes and towels maximizing space utilization. With a tight fit (1/8" or less lengthwise and front to back in the space behind the pantry), no attachment to the RV or shelves to the side "ladders" is needed.

Top shelf is not installed in this photo. Sorry about the rotation of the picture.

Dry fit in closet before finishing!

Tested. Works great!

[namusmc]

Originally Posted by BluStreek

May help those contemplating something similar... Ours is used for clothes and towels maximizing space utilization. With a tight fit (1/8" or less lengthwise and front to back in the space behind the pantry), no attachment to the RV or shelves to the side "ladders" is needed.

Top shelf is not installed in this photo. Sorry about the rotation of the picture.

Dry fit in closet before finishing!

Tested. Works great!

I really like your shelving project to make better use of the odd wardrobe layout.
For those of us not into woodworking, I'm thinking there must be ready-made shelving products on the market (other than milk crates) that could serve the purpose. Any other W owners out there with a remedy that doesn't require cutting, sanding, gluing, and staining?

[BluStreek]

Originally Posted by namusmc

I really like your shelving project to make better use of the odd wardrobe layout.
For those of us not into woodworking, I'm thinking there must be ready-made shelving products on the market (other than milk crates) that could serve the purpose. Any other W owners out there with a remedy that doesn't require cutting, sanding, gluing, and staining?

Hi 'Nam USMC, (I never got closer to that piece of real estate than the pier off of Ocean Beach in San Diego in '71-'72 while in the USNR)

I tried to go that store bought route but the odd back of the wardrobe closet dimensions were not coming out close to any "off the shelf" shelving that I could find. The narrow space behind the pantry closet is the most vexing. So I spent a weekend on/off "perfecting" the little custom shelf. That should be part of Forest River's standard fitment, IMHO, perhaps costing them about $5 to $10... in pre-finished particle board and ten minutes to install into some kind of adjustable shelving system.

I don't know if others share my phobia, but I won't be drilling any holes in my Sunseeker, especially if I don't know what is behind the panel being drilled. They do and it could have been easy for them from the start. So that is why I focused on a "stay in place without fasteners" design.

One could probably simplify and use pine 1x2's and some 1/2" ply with a bit of minimal saw work and glue and knock one off pretty darn quick. But you need the notched shelf business for shelf "retainment" (if there's such a word).

If I recall, the shelf widths did not come out to any standard board width. May have my dimension sketch somewhere in the shop...

I can only put the shelf assembly in one way. And that's by placing the ladder sides in position first, then the lower shelf goes in angled from the top onto the lower "rung", then the top shelf fits from above onto the top "rung" and locks everything in place. Easy Peasy, I think.

[namusmc]

Go Navy! I'm going with the simplified version for this project. Will use some 1x2s and 1/2" ply as you suggested. I'm thinking Velcro might become involved. Home Depot has a large selection of Velcro type fasteners, even for industrial applications.

Thank you for your ideas and suggestions.

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by namusmc

Go Navy! I'm going with the simplified version for this project. Will use some 1x2s and 1/2" ply as you suggested. I'm thinking Velcro might become involved. Home Depot has a large selection of Velcro type fasteners, even for industrial applications.

Thank you for your ideas and suggestions.

Regarding the wardrobe cabinet and clothing storage in general, early on we decided that, as much as we like the idea of hanging storage, the W storage space configuration was not going to work for all our stuff. We saw a video by Mike and Jennifer Weidland of Roadtreking about their use of eBags... these are inexpensive fabric bags that we use to organize and pack pretty much all our clothes... we each have six, 3 large and 3 small...
see www.eBags.com, and also on Amazon.

We had 4 wire storage bins around the house, and they just happened to fit pretty well in the existing W closet... I did have to secure the top set with a couple of screw-in cable brackets.



All our eBags fit pretty nicely in the existing closet, and so our clothing storage issues were pretty much solved without carpentry. A quick search on Amazon will find 100’s of wire basket options, so I am pretty sure a little measuring and on-line searching will come up with a similar or better solution then ours.

Regarding the odd little space behind the narrow pantry section, that is a good spot for spare towels and sheets.

A bonus to using the eBags is that we can move in and out of the RV pretty easily... just grab and go! (Haha)

Happy travels!

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W

[BluStreek]

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

Regarding the wardrobe cabinet and clothing storage in general, early on we decided that, as much as we like the idea of hanging storage, the W storage space configuration was not going to work for all our stuff. We saw a video by Mike and Jennifer Weidland of Roadtreking about their use of eBags... these are inexpensive fabric bags that we use to organize and pack pretty much all our clothes... we each have six, 3 large and 3 small...
see www.eBags.com, and also on Amazon.

We had 4 wire storage bins around the house, and they just happened to fit pretty well in the existing W closet... I did have to secure the top set with a couple of screw-in cable brackets.

Attachment 163879

All our eBags fit pretty nicely in the existing closet, and so our clothing storage issues were pretty much solved without carpentry. A quick search on Amazon will find 100’s of wire basket options, so I am pretty sure a little measuring and on-line searching will come up with a similar or better solution then ours.

Regarding the odd little space behind the narrow pantry section, that is a good spot for spare towels and sheets.

A bonus to using the eBags is that we can move in and out of the RV pretty easily... just grab and go! (Haha)

Happy travels!

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W

"AmazonBasics" has some snazzy and inexpensive bags that we use to organize and transport clothing (RV or jet travel). Same concept, FWIW, links:

AmazonBasics 4-Piece Packing Cube Set - Large, Red

AmazonBasics 4-Piece Packing Cube Set - 2 Medium and 2 Large, Blue

[Nancyc7]

Love the wire baskets! You know I am going to do this. What about that big space to the right? Right now I stuff the "free" Dyson Vacuum cleaner in that space.

I hear so much about Velcro and Command hooks on RV sites.
But I can't get them to stay up or stay on! One pretty big command hook fell down with nothing on it while in storage. The instructions are followed exactly.
There was a video somewhere about using rivets because they make such tiny holes and my husband even has a riveter. But holes in the wall!!! Scary.

[BluStreek]

My experience with Command hooks in the RV has been reasonably positive. FWIW... smooth surface (i.e., not pebbled), cleaned with alcohol (2x), and the alcohol cleaned area is allowed to dry thoroughly, mounting tape applied to hook with no fingers touching the sticky stuff, press and hold firmly for about a minute, and no weight on the hook for 24 hours or more. Also mind the weight limits of the particular hook widget. YMMV I've got about 12 to 15 hooks, trays (shower/bathroom sink area), and other such doodads stuck around the unit. One large hook on the padded vinyl behind the cab, by the entry door amazes me that it is still well adhered!

Rivets? I'd warn against that into the wallboard as all but the very softest aluminum rivets (not even then, though as there won't be any strength left) as they will pull through the wall panels as you tighten/spread the rivet with the rivet gun. It'd be different if you could put a washer on the backside of the rivet, but then you can't in most RV spaces! A short, fat sheet metal screw could work better if not over tightened. But that is not something I'd do unless I was sure that wiring, plumbing, or something else was not lurking behind that ~1/8" thick panel. But back to my phobia/paranoia ...holes are forever!!!

The Velcro approach is a great option, in my opinion, following instructions, using a large enough piece for the job, and going for the H-D Industrial kind in any space where permanence, vibration, and weight carried are a concern. The downside is that it is potentially a bear to remove at some future time.

My 2 cents...

[Rkloud9]

X2 on the use of alcohol to prep surfaces for command strips and Velcro. We have had pretty good luck with both.

[Nancyc7]

I even got 99% isopropyl alcohol as opposed to 70%. I have 2 command hooks in our basement of sticks and bricks house that are still up after 4 years. All the rest, crash, crash, I don’t know why.

[DaveJordan]

Originally Posted by Nancyc7

I have 2 command hooks in our basement of sticks and bricks house that are still up after 4 years. All the rest, crash, crash, I don’t know why.

Maybe the basement is a little cooler...or a little more humid...or both?

I think the hooks may fail if they dry out too much.

Dave

[SC 2017]

Originally Posted by BluStreek

Blue = softest (SSR-???)
Black = medium (SSR-338-47)
Yellow = firm (SSR-338-54)

The "firm" per Super Springs tech, is recommended for commercial applications, but I've just ordered these for my MBS 2400WS. AFAIK these are new and only available direct at this time. $272.50 plus tax with free ground shipping. I was able to talk to the tech at SuperSprings yesterday and he explained that other than the denser material the installation and dimensions are the same. I know I'm near the M-B's GVW limit and these units have a higher weight bearing capacity.

There's an Amazon review of the -47's that I read that made my decision for me regarding the firmer units. They are NOT available on Amazon, BTW, at this time.

RV is out of storage and I'm now ready to order the SumoSprings but there are 2 choices now!! Wondering if being too firm is possible. Have you installed the 54s yet?

[Nancyc7]

*AFAIK* i didn't know that meant as far as i know, i was searching for these springs.

[BluStreek]

Originally Posted by SC 2017

RV is out of storage and I'm now ready to order the SumoSprings but there are 2 choices now!! Wondering if being too firm is possible. Have you installed the 54s yet?

I expect firmer, as I'll take that over being unsteady in crosswinds and in maneuvering. I really don't know how to quantify "too firm" for other peoples tastes. But if my "commercial" springs loosen filings in normal driving I'll let folks know.

The other advantage as far as I can tell is that while you should not exceed gross weight limits, these springs do have a higher capacity, and I know that there is not a lot of spare capacity empty weight to maximum gross weight in our MBS2400WS. I know with a full (or nearly so) set of water, gray, and black water tanks (say about 30 gallons each) that's up to about 8 1/4 x 90 or 750 pounds right there, and without driver/passenger. So I'll have a margin of added safety while getting to a dump station. Yeah, have full water and full soil tanks is not an often likely situation, it may happen.

BTW, my county's recycling and waste center is kind enough to allow me to drive my RV onto their scales for a cross check of my "normally" stocked RV vs. M-B and Forest River stickers and my guesstimates. I will swing by a bit later this spring and see how close I am to limits with empty soil and full water tanks with my normal loading of personal goods. I do usually travel with about a third of the water tank filled for flushing and minor sink use. Do any of our owners have any direct experience with actual loaded weights?

[Rkloud9]

On our MBS 2400W the yellow door sticker says we have 1040 lbs. of carrying capacity. Early on in our adventure we weighed the Beast fully loaded with the 2 of us, a large dog, our gear, provisions, full fuel, full fresh water tank, empty grey and black tanks. We were about 300 lbs. overweight. We have since lost the dog, jettisoned some items, and usually don’t run with full water, but we have added solar panels and a hitch for pulling a toad (2300 pound Chevy Spark). I have not weighed it again, and am probably still a little over... we now carry some items in the car, which provides some relief to the MBS chassis. Overall, I believe we are close enough.

Our unit came with the Hellwig bar... it handles pretty well with crosswinds and passing trucks, but can go a rockin’ when going over curbs or potholes at an angle at slow speed. If adding the Sumos makes the ride firmer in the rear, I am not interested... plenty stiff enough back there!

Bob & Cynthia.

[davec2]

Just put sumos front and back on our 2017 2400w. The first thing I noticed was that violent sway when you take a driveway a little too fast is now gone. Ride is firmer. Feels good. We are going from Ohio to the Outer Banks this weekend so we will see how it goes. We have Heliwig as well. Also just did a rotation and balance at our local MB dealer. This also made a noticeable improvement.

[Beachsailor]

You might want to check alignment as well. After I noticed a lot of ware on the front tires I had MB( only one that coulld do it because of chassis overhang) do a front end alignment on our 2401w and found it was out by quite a bit. After the alignment I notice wind and semi traffic effect was greatly reduced.

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by davec2

Just put sumos front and back on our 2017 2400w. The first thing I noticed was that violent sway when you take a driveway a little too fast is now gone. Ride is firmer. Feels good. We are going from Ohio to the Outer Banks this weekend so we will see how it goes. We have Heliwig as well. Also just did a rotation and balance at our local MB dealer. This also made a noticeable improvement.

Let us know how the modification affects cruising over a stretch of highway with bad expansion joints... we run with the recommended tire pressure (61 all around), maxed out on the load, and usually cruise at 55-62 mph. These stretches are most unpleasant for us.

[Mtnman64]

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

Let us know how the modification affects cruising over a stretch of highway with bad expansion joints... we run with the recommended tire pressure (61 all around), maxed out on the load, and usually cruise at 55-62 mph. These stretches are most unpleasant for us.

I've got them all around, and Minnesota will still jar your teeth out !!

[Beachsailor]

We have a stretch on I4 going thru Lakeland where the expansion joints matchup with the wheelbase. First time I went over that section of road I thought something in the suspension had broken.

I found the sumos don't change the drive on the open road. The biggest gain is going out driveways and parking lots. Cuts way down on the sway in slow speed corners. Especially if there is a dip on bump as you are cornering.