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Old 08-26-2017, 08:00 AM   #1
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Onan service fault 1-4. How to reset

I'm getting a code 1-4 that reads as an overfrequency fault...engine governor unable to maintain rated frequency. See Onan dealer. Any way to resolve this in the field. I'm hundreds of km from a service centre.
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Old 08-26-2017, 09:16 AM   #2
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Frequency or Hertz in a generator is a function of the RPM of the engine. The faster it runs, the higher the frequency. The slower it runs, the lower the frequency. In the US and Canada the frequency is 60hz. The governor is what controls the rpm's in the engine driving the generator. It's job is to maintain a constant speed so the generator will maintain a constant frequency output even with varying loads. So if you are just running a few lights or have it maxed out with the microwave and air conditioner, the output is the same. All that to say, it sounds like something is wrong with the governor or throttle mechanism. It may be as simple as an adjustment or maybe a piece of debris.
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Old 08-26-2017, 12:29 PM   #3
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The problem is, it won't crank. I get a buzz from the solenoid and no crank. I bypassed the solenoid, and the same thing happens. Just buzz. Then 1-4 blinks on the button.
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Old 08-26-2017, 12:45 PM   #4
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Interesting. Won't crank sounds like a low house battery (on our Solera the house battery supplies power to start the generator) or a bad starter. Don't understand the "Overfrequency" fault code if it won't crank.
Maybe try jumping a known good battery direct to the starter or solenoid?
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:49 PM   #5
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Yeah Jim. I've disconnected and cleaned the terminals at the solenoid, and at the BCC with no change in the symptoms. I will bring a car alongside and see if a jump makes a difference...
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:59 PM   #6
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Just back from trying that! Success. I suspect the ground is the fault. It wouldn't crank with the jumper cables attached to the Solenoid and the frame, but when I moved the ground to the engine itself it fired. Yippee. Now to clean the ground connection. That is a problem with living in the great white North. The white isn't snow...it's salt!

Thanks Jim. Always good story have another encourager. I'd thought of jumping it but was discouraged by the trouble code. I had figured it was the electronics that was stopping it from turning over.
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:05 PM   #7
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Great! The trouble code didn't make any sense with the "won't crank" symptom.
Regards,
Jim
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Old 08-27-2017, 05:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backdoctor View Post
Just back from trying that! Success. I suspect the ground is the fault. It wouldn't crank with the jumper cables attached to the Solenoid and the frame, but when I moved the ground to the engine itself it fired. Yippee. Now to clean the ground connection. That is a problem with living in the great white North. The white isn't snow...it's salt!

Thanks Jim. Always good story have another encourager. I'd thought of jumping it but was discouraged by the trouble code. I had figured it was the electronics that was stopping it from turning over.
Anther good use of that Corrosion X I think you purchased previously!
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:19 PM   #9
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Absolutely. I had to dismantle the electrical connections to the solenoid, and the electronics package below it. Then using torx bits, remove the plate they are attached to, and remove the package and solenoid to get at the ground connections. There is a ground strap that connects the suspension mounted Genny and the frame it mounted in. This strap was severely corroded and bad begun to part. This is the cause of my no crank. The 1-4 code was a red herring, possibly caused by a feedback error from the failed ground. Anyway, I will get a new ground strap here in town this week and install it and reassemble the innards mid week when I return to the lake where the motorhome is parked.

I bought two spray cans of corrosionX and they were both at the house instead of in the motorhome, at the lake. Dumb, dumb and dumb. But one will make its way to the rig this week!
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:08 AM   #10
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Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for reporting back.
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:13 PM   #11
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This shows the module before removal. The ground strap runs from the engine block on the right to the ground point attached to the frame on the right.
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:57 PM   #12
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:00 PM   #13
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This is what it looks like with the module removed. There are two torx screws holding it in place. Beneath you'll see a mess of wires and a new silver ground strap. This was taken shortly before I sprayed it all with corrosionX!
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:01 PM   #14
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Finally the outside ground running to the chassis. I installed a new stainless steel bolt to reduce corrosion. I had a heck of a time getting the nuts off![ATTACH]150143
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