Rig won't start! 2015 Solera 24r Mercedes

[backdoctor]

We were supposed to be on the road for Florida this morning from here in Ottawa but no luck. Turn the key and "click" and then nothing. The same thing happened 4 days ago when i picked it up from the dealer. But with a jump, after 15 min of charging it started. I've had it plugged in to house power since I brought it home, plus had a battery maintainer on it 4 days now. When I check the chassis battery at the red post its 12.6v. When I climb under it I hear the click of the solenoid just above the starter but nothing else. I tried tapping the starter with a hammer (Old trick), didn't work. Any other ideas before I have to tow this to M-B dealer.

[Loefflerh]

Do the same test gain - while someone else tries to start the engine. I bet you see a big voltage drop. Your battery is in battery heaven.... 12.6v for a battery without load is low too and I soon as you put a load on it it breaks down...

[Still Kickin]

Think simple. First, if and I say if your chassis battery was near dead, a battery maintainer will not charge your battery, Not even hooked up for four days, they only maintain a nearly charged battery. Second, assuming you can't get it started and drive it to an autoparts store to have them "load test" you bat. Just jump it from under the hood connections. If you need guidance on that ask. If it turns over easily, your chassis bat needs a charge, as it is quite depleted. It IS NOT likely your starter.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Loefflerh

Do the same test gain - while someone else tries to start the engine. I bet you see a big voltage drop. Your battery is in battery heaven.... 12.6v for a battery without load is low too and I soon as you put a load on it it breaks down...

X2 on that.

Note, if you only have killed your chassis bat once, based on the age it will still have some usable life left in it, after you bring it up to full charge. Also note, that if you had the main off, while plugged in to shore power, your chassis battery was isolated from your converter and was not receiving current.

[JLeising]

Also possible battery terminal corrosion or other terminal resistance problem. Common on older vehicles - possible on new if some installation issue. If you can check the voltage while someone turns the key, and the voltage drops precipitously, then battery or high resistance connection is the likely cause.

[JLeising]

A number of people have reported (in the past years) a problem with fuse #23 blowing and causing the vehicle not to start. Not aware of hearing solenoid "click" in that situation however - seems people reported nothing happened when key turned to start. This thread is an example:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ank-27422.html

[pdqparalegal1]

Always check for a good ground and remove both cables and clean post and terminal ends. Always do this before anything else. Solves a lot of no start problems.

[Harkerr]

Battery would be a likely candidate. I have found batteries failing in 3 years.

[bareftn]

One old trick if you get the old click sound,turn on your headlights and then try starting ,if your headlights go out it new battery time, ALERT FYI ALERT for all of you if you have a interstate battery distributor (not a dealer)in your area go in or call to see if they have what they call a BLEM battery, all batteries have a shelf life and when they reach that they go back to the distributor and they sell them for most places $40.00 + core. I have bought several and a 5yr battery for 40 to me is a great buy even if it only last 4 years, 6 volt or 12 or deep cell all the same price

[myclmac]

I would call AAA for a jump and they my ve able to check the battery for load on site. Possibly replace the battery. The starting battery is under the floor on the drivers side but the jump start terminals are located in the engine compartment. The (+) terminal is covered with a red plastic cap. The (-) terminal is on the side of the body or use a ground to the engine or frame. Good luck.

[Dennise]

Originally Posted by bareftn

One old trick if you get the old click sound,turn on your headlights and then try starting ,if your headlights go out it new battery time, ALERT FYI ALERT for all of you if you have a interstate battery distributor (not a dealer)in your area go in or call to see if they have what they call a BLEM battery, all batteries have a shelf life and when they reach that they go back to the distributor and they sell them for most places $40.00 + core. I have bought several and a 5yr battery for 40 to me is a great buy even if it only last 4 years, 6 volt or 12 or deep cell all the same price

Yes, that is a quick, cheap and easy check. however it is not conclusive. A 2nd similar trick you should do is to (lightly) hammer tap on both the + and - engine battery terminal cable connectors to rule out bad connections there. If that doesn't help AND the lights dim when attempting a start, your battery is most likely either discharged or is bad.

Good luck.

[rockjohn]

Sounds like a dead battery cell.

[backdoctor]

As a matter of fact last evening just after midnight she left home with a big bruiser. Yep, a tow truck. The dealer called to ask if I'd filled up with def recently as the computer was registering some discontent with the def status. But no I hadn't. I did check the battery voltage when attempting to crank and it didn't drop below 11.4v. The battery was not the issue. And the dealer is in contact with head office tech folks to figure out why this happened. I still haven't got an answer. I hope to depart for Florida today. We'll see... Thanks for all the advice. Computers are hard to figure out!

[backdoctor]

Oh. I also checked fuse #23 on the main fuse panel, but in my model there is only a 10amp fuse. And it was fine. I also checked the fuses under the seat, and they were good too...

[silverback 35ts]

Originally Posted by backdoctor

We were supposed to be on the road for Florida this morning from here in Ottawa but no luck. Turn the key and "click" and then nothing. The same thing happened 4 days ago when i picked it up from the dealer. But with a jump, after 15 min of charging it started. I've had it plugged in to house power since I brought it home, plus had a battery maintainer on it 4 days now. When I check the chassis battery at the red post its 12.6v. When I climb under it I hear the click of the solenoid just above the starter but nothing else. I tried tapping the starter with a hammer (Old trick), didn't work. Any other ideas before I have to tow this to M-B dealer.

You first need to call the dealer/MB or some service company and get it jumped, this will get it going, second take it right back to the dealer and have them replace your batteries as 12.6v is to low.
Now for the other things while it is at the dealer and after they replace the battery they need to check all the charging systems, the factory unit on the motor, then plug it in and make sure the converter is charging, as you do not need to get stuck again with this issue.

I hope this helps and good luck with all this, in the end Happy Camping

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by backdoctor

As a matter of fact last evening just after midnight she left home with a big bruiser. Yep, a tow truck. The dealer called to ask if I'd filled up with def recently as the computer was registering some discontent with the def status. But no I hadn't. I did check the battery voltage when attempting to crank and it didn't drop below 11.4v. The battery was not the issue. And the dealer is in contact with head office tech folks to figure out why this happened. I still haven't got an answer. I hope to depart for Florida today. We'll see... Thanks for all the advice. Computers are hard to figure out!

Based on what you said, "didn't drop below 11.4v.", it is highly likely your bat is defective, or in need of a full charge. See
Battery voltage and state of charge - Energy Matters

One other thing. Due to the overhang off the back wheels, you need to make sure the tow truck didn't do any damage to the back, underneath area.

[backdoctor]

Hi all. Thanks for the responses. She was towed in to the dealer after dropping the driveshaft. No harm done to the rig. They initially thought starter. But diagnostics turned up an Ad Blue (def) code. They asked if I had recently filled up with def. But the answer was no. It had been done about 500 mikes earlier. Anyway, they cleared the code, and it started right up. The battery was fine and the charging system was all good. It stayed at the shop all day out in the cold, so they could cold start it repeatedly. No further repeats. And we just arrived in St Augustine Florida after a 24 hr drive and are settling down to a sleep (of the just). It was covered by warranty and the replacement of the drive shaft was to be charged to me but they warranted that too. So a computer glitch was the cause! No battery problem at all...

[Dennise]

Glad you got to the bottom of it, but I'd worry about it happening again down the road and at the worst possible time I'm very suspicious of MB's DEF auto shutdown due to a false DEF low/out alarm. Might you have a DEF leak somewhere?

Such a failure suggests another reason to set up an (inexpensive) OBD2
(On Board Diagnostic 2) diagnostic system that allows insight into engine/drive-train troubles/performance, and gives one the ability to reset some trouble codes.

Good luck .....

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Still Kickin

Based on what you said, "didn't drop below 11.4v.", it is highly likely your bat is defective, or in need of a full charge. See
Battery voltage and state of charge - Energy Matters

One other thing. Due to the overhang off the back wheels, you need to make sure the tow truck didn't do any damage to the back, underneath area.

Update; correcting what I previously stated, the reading in volts at the bat terminals, can be in the range of 9v to 11v at the time of the current draw. Below 9v reading during starting draw would indicate a problem with your chassis bat. You are within spec. Therefore, if you expierence another occurance like you explained, I for one have no input on what could cause the issue. Enjoy FL.

[MNtraveler]

Wow, what an interesting and enlightening story. Good solution with a skilled dealer who actually DIAGNOSED the problem before starting to replace expensive equipment.


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R