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Old 09-18-2017, 11:54 PM   #1
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WeBoost 4G-X Install

Just completed the install of a WeBoost 4G-X RV (model 470410) on my MH. The install went better than expected and I'm impressed with the initial testing of the performance.

I didn't use the OEM exterior antenna bracket but rather assembled a different system based on some online research. I bought a marine antenna mount along with a "T" shaped piece of PVC, threaded on the vertical part of the "T" to mate with the antenna mount and split on the cross piece, or top of the "T". The split provides a little bit of flex (it's technically a "quick repair" PVC fitting) when bolting the OEM bracket from the base of the antenna.

I then affixed the marine antenna mount to the rear of the roof, near the bathroom skylight (I have the "S" floor plan) which is at a diagonal from where I installed the interior antenna in the coach, maximizing the separation between the two antennas. I used a no drill method of VHB tape and Dicor.

The exterior antenna cable is tacked down to the roof and enters the coach through the fridge vent. I affixed the cable on the edges of inside cavity above the fridge to minimize the flow of warm air over the cable. I also wrapped it in a protective sheath. From there the cable travels behind the microwave (which was very easy to remove and re-install) through the overhead cabinet above the sink and to the cabinet above the entry door near the Jensen audio unit.

The booster itself came with both a hardwire fused 12v and a 110v power supply. I elected to use the 12v hardwire so it could be powered up sans shore power or generator. The power cable is routed into the cavity behind the Jensen audio unit and I installed a small button switch within the storage cabinet, next to the TV antenna power and 12v power receptacle. The interior antenna is then mounted to the underside of the cabinet, near the edge and in such a fashion that it won't interfere with anything else.

In initial testing with my phone my signal went from -111dbm to -93dbm, and at one point to -88dbm. We'll be traveling next month through the mountains with limited coverage areas, so I'm excited to see how it performs on the road.

Cheers
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:37 PM   #2
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I've read about unit last night. Thanks for sharing. What about Alfa wifi camp pro? Are you going to install that too?
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:30 AM   #3
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I've looked into both the Alfa and the WiFi Ranger. I don't really find myself in areas that have WiFi very often so I may install in the future, but for now I'm sticking with just the cell booster.
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Old 10-04-2017, 04:35 PM   #4
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Hello!

I have just purchased the same unit to install into my Sunseeker 2400s.

You have a very good description of your install and I will be doing something very similar. It looks very clean.

Any tips for a new 2400s owner?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-04-2017, 11:45 PM   #5
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As with any install, take your time and plan. The manufacturer suggests maximizing the separation between the exterior and interior antennas to improve performance. I personally didn’t want to mount the exterior antenna to the ladder as it required putting the antenna beyond the existing maximum height of the RV. After discovering this video on YouTube (https://youtu.be/3s44z3fzJsA) I opted to purchase a similar marine antenna mount for a similar install. Here’s the Amazon link for the marine antenna mount: https://goo.gl/pajEb1

Since I already had solar panels on my roof (professionally installed) I followed the same approach of “tacking” the antenna cabling to the roof with a little dollop of Dicor. I also partially followed the same path as the wire for the solar panels.

I was setback slightly after removing the refrigerator vent cover (which was very easy by the way). The plan was to route the antenna wire through the refrigerator vent, and down into the coach. I managed to make it work but it required a little more work than I anticipated.

Underneath the vent cover is a layer galvanized mesh that presumably prevents some insects and debris from entering the cavity behind the refrigerator. The solar installer had clipped a small corner of the mesh out in order to route the solar wire down there and he used welding cable to reduce voltage drop, so I imagine its stiffness gave him an advantage in routing the wire down.

I also wanted to route the antenna wire towards the left side of the refrigerator and the solar wire was routed down the right side. I’m not super proud of my solution, but I think it worked just fine and until now, no one else knows what I did.

At any rate, I clipped some of the mesh out with wire clippers so I could get my whole arm down in there to route the antenna cable properly. This allowed me to “circumnavigate” the opening rather than expose the wire to the heat generated from the refrigerator by having the wire strung across the opening. I put a sheath over the wire where it’s in the cavity of the refrigerator vent as well, just as some added protection. I then ran the wire down the left wall where there were some existing wires that were affixed to the wall with aluminum duct tape. I used the same method to hold the antenna wire in place and also provide some protection.

Consequently this also afforded me the opportunity to improve upon the existing craftsmanship for the wires that were already there. I added some more aluminum duct tape and more carefully covered all of the wires. Fortunately all of the existing wires pop through the wall behind the microwave. So after the mesh incident I was able to easy route the antenna wire the balance of the way.

In order to repair my clipping of the mesh I used some similar (actually better) galvanized mesh that I “patched” my 3”x3” hole that I clipped out and used some wire to tie it together.

The microwave itself was very easy to remove. I first removed my pipe insulation that I use to secure the rotating plate along with the glass plate and rotating assembly. A simple removal of six screws and I slid it out all on my own. It is heavier than it looks, but totally manageable.

I drilled a couple of holes in the back of the cabinets above my sink to get the exterior cable over towards the area above the coach entry door where the Jensen head unit is located. This made it easy to mount the booster itself, tap into the existing 12v power and locate the interior antenna in a manner that didn’t take up counter nor cabinet space. The antenna is also seemingly well located to improve the signal of a device from various locations within the coach. Although I have noticed a significant improvement in the boost the closer the device is to the interior antenna.

At any rate, I hope all of this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!
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Old 10-30-2017, 12:49 PM   #6
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Good morning!

I just wanted to thank you again for you help. The install went very well and the unit is performing great.

We just drove from Seattle to Las Vegas and the booster worked as well as it could given the conditions. At the end of the day, if there is no tower within 30 miles, you are not going to have service!

I hope your trip went well or is going good soon!
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleCapt View Post
...I just wanted to thank you again for you help. The install went very well and the unit is performing great...
No worries! Happy to help and glad it's performing well.

Cheers!
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:31 PM   #8
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I like your install. I have a Weboost 4G-M in my Forester 2401W. I am curious about how close you have to be to the inside antenna? With the "Hershey bar" antenna you pretty much have to put your phone on the inside antenna for a worthwhile result. Have you tested what effect being a few feet or more away has on the signal you get?
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Old 11-20-2017, 01:43 PM   #9
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The closer the phone is to the interior antenna, the better result however I have measured positive results from sitting a few feet away in the dinette, in the over cab bed and in the cab chassis. There's essentially no benefit near the back of the MH in the rear bed. I use Android and it's really easy to pull up the dBm values and watch them change as I move about the MH, but I haven't committed any of the values to memory nor written them down. HTH Cheers!
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