As with any install, take your time and plan. The manufacturer suggests maximizing the separation between the exterior and interior antennas to improve performance. I personally didn’t want to mount the exterior antenna to the ladder as it required putting the antenna beyond the existing maximum height of the RV. After discovering this video on YouTube (
https://youtu.be/3s44z3fzJsA) I opted to purchase a similar marine antenna mount for a similar install. Here’s the Amazon link for the marine antenna mount:
https://goo.gl/pajEb1
Since I already had solar panels on my roof (professionally installed) I followed the same approach of “tacking” the antenna cabling to the roof with a little dollop of Dicor. I also partially followed the same path as the wire for the solar panels.
I was setback slightly after removing the refrigerator vent cover (which was very easy by the way). The plan was to route the antenna wire through the refrigerator vent, and down into the coach. I managed to make it work but it required a little more work than I anticipated.
Underneath the vent cover is a layer galvanized mesh that presumably prevents some insects and debris from entering the cavity behind the refrigerator. The solar installer had clipped a small corner of the mesh out in order to route the solar wire down there and he used welding cable to reduce voltage drop, so I imagine its stiffness gave him an advantage in routing the wire down.
I also wanted to route the antenna wire towards the left side of the refrigerator and the solar wire was routed down the right side. I’m not super proud of my solution, but I think it worked just fine and until now, no one else knows what I did.
At any rate, I clipped some of the mesh out with wire clippers so I could get my whole arm down in there to route the antenna cable properly. This allowed me to “circumnavigate” the opening rather than expose the wire to the heat generated from the refrigerator by having the wire strung across the opening. I put a sheath over the wire where it’s in the cavity of the refrigerator vent as well, just as some added protection. I then ran the wire down the left wall where there were some existing wires that were affixed to the wall with aluminum duct tape. I used the same method to hold the antenna wire in place and also provide some protection.
Consequently this also afforded me the opportunity to improve upon the existing craftsmanship for the wires that were already there. I added some more aluminum duct tape and more carefully covered all of the wires. Fortunately all of the existing wires pop through the wall behind the microwave. So after the mesh incident I was able to easy route the antenna wire the balance of the way.
In order to repair my clipping of the mesh I used some similar (actually better) galvanized mesh that I “patched” my 3”x3” hole that I clipped out and used some wire to tie it together.
The microwave itself was very easy to remove. I first removed my pipe insulation that I use to secure the rotating plate along with the glass plate and rotating assembly. A simple removal of six screws and I slid it out all on my own. It is heavier than it looks, but totally manageable.
I drilled a couple of holes in the back of the cabinets above my sink to get the exterior cable over towards the area above the coach entry door where the Jensen head unit is located. This made it easy to mount the booster itself, tap into the existing 12v power and locate the interior antenna in a manner that didn’t take up counter nor cabinet space. The antenna is also seemingly well located to improve the signal of a device from various locations within the coach. Although I have noticed a significant improvement in the boost the closer the device is to the interior antenna.
At any rate, I hope all of this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!
Linear Mode
