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Old 11-30-2016, 12:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
You're missing the fact that they are locking the doors which puts it in to a security mode. Second we are not talking about a car. Actually if you reproduce the scenario in my Denali it has similar effects including the horn will sound. But we are not talking about that. Like I said, with CANBUS you can have different effects depending on the manufacturer.

I do agree all the simple obvious should of been done already, including load testing the battery.
Noted. I have the MB Sprinter based class C as well. I have boondocked overnighht, doors locked, and just jumped into the drivers seat, inserted the key and departed. Although I would have to dbl check if locking by remote is different than by dash master lock button. But can't right now for the member, to see if that makes a difference.
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Old 11-30-2016, 12:11 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Still Kickin View Post
Noted. I have the MB Sprinter based class C as well. I have boondocked overnighht, doors locked, and just jumped into the drivers seat, inserted the key and departed. Although I would have to dbl check if locking by remote is different than by dash master lock button. But can't right now for the member, to see if that makes a difference.
I think it would. Try it with the FOB and let us know. Thanks.
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:18 PM   #23
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So lets do a follow up here. The first episode was in Nov on a trip to south carolina. It seemed to right itself if there was a power demand somewhere in the chassis, and I could start. First, the drivers door powered up the dash and ignition. The next time that didn't work, but when I switched on the dome light, the dash powered up. The next time that didn't work, but opening the hood worked. I did get a CEL a couple of times, but they went off as soon as I restarted. I went to Critz MB in savanah, but with no CEL on at the time, they couldn't find anything. I got home to Ottawa, and this never happened again, but I took it to my dealer, Star Motors (super dealership), and nothing showed on the scans...

Now we set off in early Jan to head south west. The first night we stayed at my uncle's, so no one was in the rig. The next night in Memphis, cold temp, running the furnace. In the morning NO START! The only way I could get it to go was powering up the genny. By this point I've also wired the battery isolator relay in the battery control center in the thought that this situation might occur again. So the genny in conjunction with the
bridge between the chassis and coach started the rig.

I should also mention that at no point in checking chassis battery voltage was there ever a drop below 12.5v. BUT, when I took off the battery cover in the footwell, the positive cable that Forest River had installed to power some of the accessories was arcing and caused burning of the red terminal cover! The nut holding the cable in was loose! I cleaned it and tightened it up. I had hoped this would resolve some of the issue...

Now I could have stayed in Memphis an extra day, but I was thinking "I got this" so we'll continue west. A the first fill up, she won't start again. I'm pissed now! Jump it with the gennie, and head for albequrque NM, 1000 miles away! Arriving at 7 in the morning on a Monday , they took me right in. The list of trouble codes ran over 7 Pages! Holy cow... most were voltage related, but not all. I also had a particulate filter full of soot.

All the tech did was to clear the codes, check the charging system and all was declared Normal. He did a regeneration burn on the particulate filter and it cleaned up. He did check for voltage draw down overnight while we stayed in a hotel, but there were no more faults! So now we're in telluride to ski for a week, and then on to Quartzsite.

We'll see how it goes. But the tech felt the arcing from the loose FR accessory cable could have caused voltage fluctuations. He said the electrical system is extremely sensitive. He also said he's the ONLY sprinter tech in New Mexico. Man did I get lucky. How lucky, we'll see. This is my 7th mercedes dealer in two years. They have all been fantastic to deal with, but this is getting old! Pray for me brothers and sisters!
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:46 PM   #24
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On post 12 you said all battery connections were tight. Now on post 23 you say there is arcing and loose connections. What's up with that? Tight battery connections on newer vehicles are very important. Probably was your problem to start with. Most tech's don't have common sense to check anything but the scanner.
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:53 PM   #25
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Good catch. I hadn't jiggled the connection vigorously enough. And wasn't looking critically at the discolouration. Once I did that, and used a socket wrench to remove the bolt, it wasn't snug. It came off super easily. So I cleaned up the terminal and the lead, and added dielectric grease and wrenched it down solidly. The tech didn't like the grease at all. But I said I didn't have a grinder or files with me, and wanted to insure a good connection. He said that may be okay for Chevy or Ford, but "The Germans" (in his words) would never allow that.
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:59 PM   #26
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Yeah, I wouldn't use grease either...I bet that connection was your problem. Good luck
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