What have you done to customize your MBS 2400 series motor home

[dukeboone]

2x 160w solar
BlueSky 2512ix MPPT Controller
BlueSky IPN ProRemote
Progressive Industries EMS w/ Remote Display
Metal Valve Stems
TPMS
Sumo Springs
Rear Bed Shelving
Upgraded Curt Controller...

Regarding the coach audio receiver my "C" speaker is wired to a subwoofer located underneath the front most dinette bench. Adjusted the bass down quite a bit and it sounds quite good now. I suspect the subwoofer is located in different areas depending on the floor plan. My HDMI cables needed to be swapped on the overhead bunk TV, and now all the A/V inputs work properly.

Cheers

[ShermanD]

Originally Posted by namusmc

Remove the two drawers from the closet. In the rear of the opening you should find a small subwoofer with a volume control mounted on the floor. You can reach in the opening and fiddle with the controls. The system actually sounds pretty decent once you get the sub adjusted to your liking.

Thanks for the response. I checked that out. no luck. The MBS 2400WS has a full drivers side slide out with the clothes closet as well as the drawers residing within it. Due to this, all the wiring for the slide out devices come up through the bottom of the stationary part of the bed, then down alongside the slide out, underneath it and then enter into the area behind the drawers. When I took out the drawers, I did find a green/white lamp cord so I started tracing where it went. Two hours later, after crawling under the motor home trying to trace the wires, opening evey cover inside. removing the master switch panel, and the Electrical distribution center. I figured out that the green/white lamp cord I was tracing was for the drivers side exterior light that is in the slide out. I never did find the "C" channel wire I was looking for but I did find the Generator Transfer Switch.

If you have a 2400W or a 2401W, the transfer switch is located behind a panel in the driver side rear garage compartment. There should be a box out on the left with 4 screws. Remove the screws, corner trim, and paneling to access transfer switch. I never did try and figure out how to remove its cover though.

I also found that some wiring runs underneath either encased in sealtite or wire loom. There is also some wiring that was snaked through the floor framing.
The 110 volt feed from the transfer switch runs in between the floor and under the spot that I installed the safe. The floor is 3/4" sheeting so if you do install the safe where I did, keep that in mind when drilling a pilot hole and choosing the length of the lag bolts you use.

BTW, If anyone ever figures out how to take the speaker covers off without damaging them or the soft ceiling, I would appreciate knowing. Accessing that area is my next project should I find time to search for the "C" channel speaker wiring.

It sure would be nice if Forest River had a wiring schematic showing the wire coloring, which device it was for and where it was fed from. The electrical installers had to have something to work by.

[Farkasb]

Here are updates to my 2401WS:

Picked my unit up in October 2015 and the first thing I did before leaving the lot was duct-tape a Ziploc bag around the curt controller. Thanks to everyone talking about it here on the forum. Didn't bother mentioning it to the dealer because I knew what would happen, nothing.

Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C installed in night stand next to bed (thanks for the idea Kysunseekermbs)

Sumo springs front and rear

Cut open access to area behind TV for extra storage. Have the entertainment center option with the large cap.

Ran Optical cable from the Jensen JWM6A to the 42" TV for surround sound

Refurbished Roku for TV

Dimmer switch for dinette lights

LED light for range hood (thanks Backdoctor)

Extenda stay hose for propane

Screen door guard and screen door bar/handle.

Maxxfan deluxe for bedroom

Moved bedroom maxxfan into bathroom

Roof mounted solar panels 160W and 100W panels

1500W inverter hard wired into the breaker with second transfer switch, remote on/off switch at convenience center above fridge

Oxygenics Shower head

Shower faucet

Bathroom faucet

Sunscreens for cab Windows

Easy curtain for blackout of cab Windows.Easy Living Industries

Removed the Velcro buttons from stock curtain and replaced with Silver Grey Hinged screw Snap-Caps

Added 2 shelves to back cubby in wardrobe

Also had a few issues:

Mercedes issue had a transmission cooling pipe leaking, fixed under warranty

Screws missing in slide bracket , fixed under warranty

Minor leak coming from under the wardrobe due to gaps in calking on outside of slide molding, fixed under warranty

Leak in front cap that came through the visor, same as many others have reported. Had it in to the shop four times before we finally figured out the issue. To help troubleshoot I ended up removing all the plastic molding and visor molding to examine inside the cap easier, also bought a scope camera to thoroughly look around in there.

1st attempt the shop touched up the calk around the cap and sealed around the clearance lights. Still water entering the cap. 2nd time into the shop was the first pressure test and it only showed one clearance light had a slight leak. They sealed that and also touched up the dicor at the end of gutters. I still had water coming into the cap when it rained. 3rd time in the pressure test showed no leaks they were still baffled and re-calked a few areas around the cap and gutters. Water still coming in the cap not much but any amount is too much. The fourth time into the shop they gathered a few techs and we went over all the scenarios. The one area I always questioned ended up being the culprit. My unit does not have gutters up front so the water runs right down the outside of the cap. It comes down hugging the side with such force or suction that it defies gravity and wraps around to the cab window. There some kind of molding or spacer there that was letting water in. Attached is a photo of that area. When the shop took off the molding there was a gap at the front corner that opened to the interior of the cap letting water in. They calked the gap and along that molding section on both sides of the coach. I still have one piece of molding off so I can monitor for any leaks DW hates it but I need my piece of mind. The plan is to have front gutters put on this fall, hopefully under warranty.

I must say even though this was a pain and a hassle the shop (not who I bought from) was very accommodating compared to other experiences I have read on this forum.

[nusslejj]

For years I always moved my Streamlight 'stinger' rechargeable flashlight from travel-trailer to travel-trailer. However, I let it go with the last TT.

I just happened to see the latest Strion LED on a clearance table at Gander Mountain - had to have it.

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-7...+strion+led+hl

I will mount it on the wall below the sink as you walk in the door next to the switches / battery disconnect. Will also wire it in under the cabinet to 12v for charging.

This is a great little light, and puts the Stinger to shame. 505 5-star reviews

[ShermanD]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

For years I always moved my Streamlight 'stinger' rechargeable flashlight from travel-trailer to travel-trailer. However, I let it go with the last TT.

I just happened to see the latest Strion LED on a clearance table at Gander Mountain - had to have it.

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-7...+strion+led+hl

I will mount it on the wall below the sink as you walk in the door next to the switches / battery disconnect. Will also wire it in under the cabinet to 12v for charging.

This is a great little light, and puts the Stinger to shame. 505 5-star reviews

We found these cute little LED lanterns on Amazon.com. They are a prime item. What is real nice about then is that they will fit in the corner cup holders on the slide out dinette. The use AA batteries, so you could put re-chargeable batteries in them if you wanted to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HomeOnWheels]

Among many things I added to our W, the twist on waste valve is something I would rather not have to have. After three failures of black tank valve and one failure of grey valve, I believe there is an inherent design flaw. By adding this twist on valve, it at least won't cause a stinky mess.

[Farkasb]

Originally Posted by ShermanD

I think I am finished customizing our Sunseeker MBS2400WS for now.

accomplishments.

Added Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller.
Added back-up camera to Transport trailer - hardwired into Jenson in dash system.
Added Extenda-stay propane valve and hoses.
Added Water Pump switch in bathroom.
Added elastic strips to movable half of mattress - pulls mattress half out on slide out extension. One push and bed is maid.
Added small safe to cubby under bed.
Build new knife holder that replaces existing one.
Added Sumosprings SSR-338-47 to rear suspension
Added Sumosprings SSF-106-40 to front suspension
Installed missing valve stem extensions
Added Carefree EZ ZipBlocker 15x8 sun shade to awning
Added A-Z covers 3 piece window insulation set
Added additional shelving in pantry
Removed Bedroom Curtain
Customized privacy curtain separating cab from camper.

No wonder I have been so tired lately!!!

Hey Sherman, I noticed your Dyson is mounted next to the entrance door. Did it come that way from the factory?

Mine came mounted in the long narrow storage bay at the back on the driver side.

Thanks


2016 Forester 2401WS

[raptor]

Hi ShermanD,
Is these added Sumo springs SSR-338-47 to rear suspension and Sumo springs SSF-106-40 to front suspension working much better for you? How much are they and where did you get it? Would Les Swab do the installation?

[dukeboone]

Originally Posted by raptor

Hi ShermanD,
Is these added Sumo springs SSR-338-47 to rear suspension and Sumo springs SSF-106-40 to front suspension working much better for you? How much are they and where did you get it? Would Les Swab do the installation?

I have the SSR-338-47 on the rear, did the installation myself but I'm confident that Les Schwab would do the installation. The rear are very easy. Haven't done the front yet, but still may do that. Looks a little more difficult and might have Les Schwab do it for me if I go that route.

[namusmc]

I've noticed that some forum members have installed front Timbren "springs" instead of the Sumos. I have Sumos on the rear, which I really like, but am wondering if any members have comments about the Timbrens front installation ease and function vs the Sumos front installation and function.

[nusslejj]

I took my RV to a local tire shop to change out the rubber valve stems to metal so I can support higher pressure and be a bit more safe traveling. (Thanks for all the comments about using better, metal high-pressure valve stems.) It really was not costly at all. $4.95 for a stem, and $8 to put them on each tire. The more I looked at the rims, the more ticked I got about how the blasted hubcaps scratch up the rims so badly that they have significant rust in many places, not to mention the inner dually rims are seriously rusted around the bolt pattern. I didn't even know what was lurking behind those hubcaps...

I decided to leave the hubcaps off, as it isn't all that bad looking, but I still have to address the rust issues. I debated having them power-coated, painting them myself, or do nothing.

Thinking about the fact this is a $69k RV (plus all my mods), I started searching for the best price on 4 Alcoa "Durabrite coated" rims, and found a vendor on Ebay that is an Alcoa dealer, and in my part of the USA. It ended up costing me $1649 for the complete package shipped to my door, and I hope to put them on this weekend. I also hope to save a bit in weight too, as the Alcoa rims are 17 lbs each. I LOVE the valve stems that come installed on the rims. ALL METAL BOLTED IN.

The hubcaps (like new) and rims will go up on Craigslist this weekend

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

I took my RV to a local tire shop to change out the rubber valve stems to metal so I can support higher pressure and be a bit more safe traveling. (Thanks for all the comments about using better, metal high-pressure valve stems.) It really was not costly at all. $4.95 for a stem, and $8 to put them on each tire. The more I looked at the rims, the more ticked I got about how the blasted hubcaps scratch up the rims so badly that they have significant rust in many places, not to mention the inner dually rims are seriously rusted around the bolt pattern. I didn't even know what was lurking behind those hubcaps...

I decided to leave the hubcaps off, as it isn't all that bad looking, but I still have to address the rust issues. I debated having them power-coated, painting them myself, or do nothing.

Thinking about the fact this is a $69k RV (plus all my mods), I started searching for the best price on 4 Alcoa "Durabrite coated" rims, and found a vendor on Ebay that is an Alcoa dealer, and in my part of the USA. It ended up costing me $1649 for the complete package shipped to my door, and I hope to put them on this weekend. I also hope to save a bit in weight too, as the Alcoa rims are 17 lbs each. I LOVE the valve stems that come installed on the rims. ALL METAL BOLTED IN.

The hubcaps (like new) and rims will go up on Craigslist this weekend

You cost me money every time you post a new mod

If you can post pictures, I would really like to see how they look. I've contemplated waiting for the EVO version of the Durabrite wheels. I like the weight savings, the ease of checking tire pressure and the idea of getting rid of those lousy "hubcaps".

You need to be prepared to catch grief from some on here that think you just wasted your money. Personally, I think this is a worthwhile mod and wish FR had offered it from the factory (like LTV does).

Pictures please!

[Petersb]

The updates to my 2016 sunseeker.
1. Sumos front and rear
2. Shower head with hydrogenics.
3.replaced wimpy horn.
4 replaced water heater plastic drain nut with brass petcock.
5.replaced dinette with 68" flexsteel full size sofa sleeper. We now use adjustable TV trays for table it makes more room with slide out. And sofa is way more comfy than dinette cushions. Both people can watch tv.
6. Installed 5" pvc tube for slinky under rear bumper.
7. Installed. Bielstiens rear shocks.
That's all for now I'm going to have valve stems done soon also.






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[mtnlvr]

What model # of Sumos did you go with? Can you post a pic of the new sofa bed? I agree that dinette isn't very comfy for lounging and watching TV. Trays would be just fine. My family and I are all tall and the current 5'-8" dinette is too short for anyone to sleep on. The longest bed is the overhead bunk and no one wants to climb a ladder.

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

You cost me money every time you post a new mod
Pictures please!

My only thought is if FR offered the Alcoa's as an option they would be far more expensive than what I just paid. I heard that Winnebago offers them as an option on their View for $3.5k. That is more than double what I paid.

I think the rims are like adding granite counters to your kitchen. You will always get your money back out of them, and they attract buyers / help with negotiation when the time comes.

I'm still trying to even things up after that heatpump upgrade you did

I should have them mounted next week. I'll definitely post some pictures.

[raptor]

I decided to leave the hubcaps off, as it isn't all that bad looking, but I still have to address the rust issues. I debated having them power-coated, painting them myself, or do nothing.

I'm with you nusslejj. I have to enlarge front hub cap hole so my flow through sensors from tire-safeguard would fit instead of that they are all off. They are only pressure lock and could fly off hurt someone.

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

My only thought is if FR offered the Alcoa's as an option they would be far more expensive than what I just paid. I heard that Winnebago offers them as an option on their View for $3.5k. That is more than double what I paid.

I think the rims are like adding granite counters to your kitchen. You will always get your money back out of them, and they attract buyers / help with negotiation when the time comes.

I'm still trying to even things up after that heatpump upgrade you did

I should have them mounted next week. I'll definitely post some pictures.

Even my spouse has commented on what a great mod that was - and she thought it was several thousand dollars. Mentioned to her last night it was only around $700 since I did the work. So far, it's the best thing we have done to the MH - cools better (15K vs. 13.5K BTU), much quieter, has heat pump (vs. cool only) and starts/runs great on the QD3200 diesel generator. Should be standard equipment with the diesel generator upgrade! Dynamax installs this on the Isata 3, wonder why it's not done (at least as a low cost option) on the FR models.
The Alcoa's are next on the "big" mod list. Can't check tire pressure and the TPMS doesn't like the valve stem extensions on the steel wheels. Also, need to get some weight out of this thing before our big trip to AK in 2018.

And I understand about the big markup from the factory - shouldn't be that big since they could remove the steel wheels and sell them as new takeoffs. But everyone gets their cut.

[LoveLife7478]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

Even my spouse has commented on what a great mod that was - and she thought it was several thousand dollars. Mentioned to her last night it was only around $700 since I did the work. So far, it's the best thing we have done to the MH - cools better (15K vs. 13.5K BTU), much quieter, has heat pump (vs. cool only) and starts/runs great on the QD3200 diesel generator. Should be standard equipment with the diesel generator upgrade! Dynamax installs this on the Isata 3, wonder why it's not done (at least as a low cost option) on the FR models.
The Alcoa's are next on the "big" mod list. Can't check tire pressure and the TPMS doesn't like the valve stem extensions on the steel wheels. Also, need to get some weight out of this thing before our big trip to AK in 2018.

And I understand about the big markup from the factory - shouldn't be that big since they could remove the steel wheels and sell them as new takeoffs. But everyone gets their cut.

Looks like the Alcoa' 16" rim package for 3500 chassis in the dura bright is about $1850.00 and free shipping on buytruckwheels.com. Not a bad price for the wheels you are getting and you can more easily check tire pressures with these and don't have to worry about a $200 simulator falling off