Winterization of 2400 W

[Sunseeker24]

yes, make sure you close the valve going to the water storage tank, then just put that hose in the red pop jug and the pump will suck it out and into your water lines.

[jimbeck]

Makes sense. Where would I find the valve to close - to the water storage tank?

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by jimbeck

Hi Forum folks,
I have a FR MBS Sunseeker 2400R - and I have attached an image of what appears to be a pump and a hose intake. Is this for sucking in anti-freeze for winterizing? Not seen in the picture (it is to the left) is a switch that goes from Winterization to RV.
This pump is accessed within a small black door which is inside one of the rear cargo doors on driver side, accessed from outside the RV.
Thanks for any info provided.

Yes, that's exactly what it is. We have he same model.

By the way, since it's no longer winterization season, you might want to make sure that tube has been cleared and flushed of antifreeze, if it was ever used for that. If dry camping, you may need to use that tube to get fresh water into the camper once your holding tank runs dry.

[jimbeck]

Thanks so much sir!!
Great to hear you have same unit as we do. Would love to communicate directly if we could share emails (jimebay@yahoo.com).

BTW - is that the whole purpose of the switch that goes from RV to Winterization ?? RV simply meaning water pump, pumps from holding tank,, and Winterization pump from the syphon hose??

Also - someone mentioned a holding tank close valve early in this thread, to close off the holding tank if sucking in the pink stuff.

WHERE would I find the valve to close off the fresh water tank??

Thanks so much for your replies.

[jimbeck]

Hi forum folks,
new to the usage of my hot water heater. I have a control panel switch for BOTH Electric & gas for the hot water heater.
Neither seems to provide much hot water - just a bit than luke warm at best.
What am I missing?
The flame at the exterior of the unit where the vent is for the hot water heater - was active and blowing into the intake.
Is it basically use "electric" when plugged in to power, or "gas" when not?
How long should it take to get good hot water?
Should switch be left on - of put in off after awhile?

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by jimbeck

Hi forum folks,
new to the usage of my hot water heater. I have a control panel switch for BOTH Electric & gas for the hot water heater.
Neither seems to provide much hot water - just a bit than luke warm at best.
What am I missing?
The flame at the exterior of the unit where the vent is for the hot water heater - was active and blowing into the intake.
Is it basically use "electric" when plugged in to power, or "gas" when not?
How long should it take to get good hot water?
Should switch be left on - of put in off after awhile?

What you missed is the bypass valve, so most cold water is bypassing the heater and mixing with a bit of hot to give you lukewarm. Look for that third valve and turn that one OFF. The three valve handles should all point the same direction. The hot and cold valves will be parallel to their lines and the bypass valve will be perpendicular to its line.

Use electric when you are paying for it already. Just watch your total electric load when running AC or microwave. As a resistance heater, it's a big power user. With time, you will learn what you can and cannot use together.

Maybe 10 mins to heat up, 15 from a cold start. You can run gas and electric together when you have both to heat up faster or for faster re-heat (cycle) time.