Winterize 2017 Forester 2401WS MBS

[OREddie]

I finished the process just in time. It started snowing an hour after and this morning it's in the mid 'teens.

This process is model specific so I'm not sure it will help many but am sharing just in case. When I figure out how, I'll upload the "how to" document I created with detailed pictures to this and the General Tech and Repair/Plumbing and Water Systems subforum.

Winterize Forester 2017 2401 WS MBS (Full Wall Slide on Mercedes Sprinter chassis)
1. Dumped black and grey water tanks.
2. Rinsed black water tank
3. Opened all faucets, toilet flush lever (weighted down with gallon of rv antifreeze) and toilet spray (held open with rubber band).
4. Attached outside water hose to quick coupler
5. Removed shower hose from faucet
6. Removed 5” hatch under rig just forward of rear bumper
7. Pulled low-point hose drains from hatch
8. Opened fresh water tank valve drain until no more water flowed.
9. Opened low point hoses and drained until no more water flowed.
10. Removed plug from hot water heater (Attwood) and opened pressure relief valve. Drained until no more water flowed.
11. Closed all faucets
12. Removed inside cabinet panel below stove to expose hot water tank lines.
13. Reversed existing positions of the three valves. Two of the valves are easy to see. The third is in the red, hot water line running near the top & parallel to the hot water heater. Arrows show “Summer”/normal use position.
14. Flushed entire system, opening one faucet at a time, with compressed air through city water connection. Began with outside water hose, removing after water stopped coming out, and then doing all inside faucets.
15. Removed panel below shower pan and pulled out white hose found next to water pump.
16. Removed filter attached to pump. There was a small amount of water in it.
17. Removed cap from white hose and placed hose in gallon jug of RV Antifreeze
18. Positioned B &B valve (mounted just to the right of the water pump compartment cover) to Winterize
19. Operated water pump opening one faucet/toilet flush/spray hose drawing RV antifreeze until it was visible at the faucet/toilet flush/spray hose.
20. Dumped leftover antifreeze into sink and shower traps


• I was unable to remove the filter in the bathroom cabinet; I just couldn’t get it loose so will have dealer check it. The filter filled with antifreeze, so I’m not concerned about freezing
• The hose for drawing antifreeze into the pipes was packed tight and was kinked where it attaches to the B&B valve. No antifreeze flowed until I got the kink out.
• I believe 2-3 gallons of antifreeze should suffice. I used more because I failed to locate the third valve to bypass the hot water heater when I first started and lost some to the hot water tank.

[SBurson]

We bought the same RV in August. We live in West Texas and have had just one hard freeze, so all we did to prepare was empty water heater and water holding tank. We are heading out during Thanksgiving with our RV, so we are holding off on the full winterizing process until December. I've just printed your post to show my husband. Thank you for sharing!

I'm learning so much on this forum, it's simply amazing. Take care,
Shelley

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by SBurson

We bought the same RV in August. We live in West Texas and have had just one hard freeze, so all we did to prepare was empty water heater and water holding tank. We are heading out during Thanksgiving with our RV, so we are holding off on the full winterizing process until December. I've just printed your post to show my husband. Thank you for sharing!



I'm learning so much on this forum, it's simply amazing. Take care,

Shelley

Hey Shelly! We have the same rig, and your list is a great guide. My only comment is that if you are going the anti-freeze route, you really do not need to blow out the lines with air, as the anti-freeze really does the job. If you find that you seldom use the outside cold water sprayer, I suggest that after you fill that line with anti-freeze, you never use it again. That is the weakest link in the “chain” of stuff that can freeze in a surprise cold spell. Leaving the anti-freeze in there is a great safety precaution.

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400w

[SBurson]

Thank you Bob and Cynthia for your e-mail; however, OREddie gets the credit for the list as he wrote the original post for the thread.

BTW, I live in West Texas, but am originally from Chicago (Lake Forest, Highland Park, Deerfield). I miss the snow in the winters!

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by SBurson

Thank you Bob and Cynthia for your e-mail; however, OREddie gets the credit for the list as he wrote the original post for the thread.



BTW, I live in West Texas, but am originally from Chicago (Lake Forest, Highland Park, Deerfield). I miss the snow in the winters!

Re: missing the snow, Texas is a good place to be while missing it! Your State Parks are terrific, and Big Bend is a real treat!

[OREddie]

I uploaded a file describing my model specific process for winterizing and included pictures. The file can be found in the forum's library, Forest River Tech Talk, subforum Plumbing and Water Systems.

Thanks to all who helped.



Winterize Forester 2017 2401 WS MBS.doc

OREddie
'17 Forster 2401WS

[MNtraveler]

Good post, thanks! The only thing I can see is to remove the filter from the fresh (city) water connector and press in the back-flow valve until antifreeze comes out that line, then replace the filter.

There is a "wrench" for the water filter that may have been stashed somewhere in your unit when it was delivered. Otherwise the dealer can give you one or you can get it at the link below. The wrench is only for removal of the filter canister, it should only be put on hand tightened. If removed and drained, be sure ALL water is removed from the threads as this seems to be where people have trouble with small drops freezing and causing cracks.

https://smile.amazon.com/Flow-Pur-WR...housing+wrench

[OREddie]

Thanks! The fresh water canister filter is located in the sink cabinet on my rig. Without removing it I don't have access to, nor was I aware of, a backflow valve. I have the wrench but no amount of reasonable force will loosen the filter. I'll have the shop take care of it so if it breaks it's on them .

[namusmc]

Originally Posted by OREddie

Thanks! The fresh water canister filter is located in the sink cabinet on my rig. Without removing it I don't have access to, nor was I aware of, a backflow valve. I have the wrench but no amount of reasonable force will loosen the filter. I'll have the shop take care of it so if it breaks it's on them .

Might try using DW hair dryer to heat up the filter housing before trying to loosen it. That is my plan anyway.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by OREddie

Thanks! The fresh water canister filter is located in the sink cabinet on my rig. Without removing it I don't have access to, nor was I aware of, a backflow valve. I have the wrench but no amount of reasonable force will loosen the filter. I'll have the shop take care of it so if it breaks it's on them .

Sorry to use the wrong terminology - the "filter" I was talking about is actually better called a screen and is on the outer (outside) end of the city water fill line. If you remove that screen (the size of a hose washer) then push in the little black valve, antifreeze will flow out. You will need a little pressure from the pump in the lines but have the pump off and also stand clear when you press the valve so you don't get a face full!

The wrench for the water filter canister is for the in-line fresh water filter which is, in these models, indoors.

[OREddie]

Brought my rig in for service today and described the stuck filter problem. They said I'll likely have to replace filter filled with antifreeze. I had to go forward with winterization or risk burst pipes so figure I'm ahead.

We use an in-line filter for filling and when hooking up to fresh water at parks. I wonder what value the FR installed filter provides anyway.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by OREddie

Brought my rig in for service today and described the stuck filter problem. They said I'll likely have to replace filter filled with antifreeze. I had to go forward with winterization or risk burst pipes so figure I'm ahead.

We use an in-line filter for filling and when hooking up to fresh water at parks. I wonder what value the FR installed filter provides anyway.

Yeah sorry about that! Best to take out before winterizing if you may want to dewinterize and use it further (put it in the freezer until then to prevent spoilage). However the filter needs to be thrown out and replaced annually anyway.

That filter, like many topics, generates a ton of comments both ways. I can just tell you a lot of fine sediment got left behind in the canister after a season of use even though all non-home water got outside filtered too. I cut open the outside filter at end of year and man that was dirty! The inside filter I used was charcoal so opening it up didn't show anything against the black pebbles. But like I said a lot of stuff was trapped behind in the canister so I appreciated that.

[namusmc]

Some OP months ago said filter cartridges are available at HD but take your old one along to match it up.

[backdoctor]

So I'm sitting in my lazyboy at "O dark hundred hours" this morning reading various posts, and to be thorough I read this one, even though I winterized my rig weeks ago.

Oh my goodness... I realized with dread that I'd forgotten to drain the hot water tank! AND IVE GOT A CHECKLIST! The problem with checklists is that you have to read them...

We've had several nights here at -10° C. I'm pooched!

So I scoot out to the storage place to see how bad it is. Remove the plug, and behold, water comes pouring out. Thank you Lord.

The saying "The Lord protects fools and drunks" came to mind!

Thanks for this timely reminder. And thanks to all who contribute to this terrific resource. I'm thankful.

[barnbnb]

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

Hey Shelly! We have the same rig, and your list is a great guide. My only comment is that if you are going the anti-freeze route, you really do not need to blow out the lines with air, as the anti-freeze really does the job. If you find that you seldom use the outside cold water sprayer, I suggest that after you fill that line with anti-freeze, you never use it again. That is the weakest link in the “chain” of stuff that can freeze in a surprise cold spell. Leaving the anti-freeze in there is a great safety precaution.

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400w

I've always used antifreeze to winterize but have also stored my rig inside where it does not get really cold. However, I will be parking it outside for a month or so in the cold while working on a classic car project.
I've already winterized. However, this thread makes me wonder if I need to use compressed air to clear the city water connection. I used air on the black tank flush line, but not the city water line.
Does anyone know if that is necessary or does that line drain when following normal winterization procedures?

[OREddie]

In the end game the dealer removed the stuck filter, re-winterizezed and advised I replace the existing filter because it was saturated with antifreeze. I wasn't charged for the work they did tho.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by barnbnb

I've always used antifreeze to winterize but have also stored my rig inside where it does not get really cold. However, I will be parking it outside for a month or so in the cold while working on a classic car project.

I've already winterized. However, this thread makes me wonder if I need to use compressed air to clear the city water connection. I used air on the black tank flush line, but not the city water line.

Does anyone know if that is necessary or does that line drain when following normal winterization procedures?

Normally we blow out the lines THROUGH the city water connection so that gets cleared.

If using only antifreeze, or if you have it in the lines now, you can turn on your water pump briefly, remove the screen on the outside end of the city water connection, and use a screwdriver to press in the back-flow preventer valve. Stand to the side, though, so you don't get antifreeze all over you. As soon as it shoots out you can release the valve and turn off the pump.

[Jane_p]

Could someone explain in detail the best way to flush the system using compressed air?
DO i need an air compressor? what adapters are required?

Thanks Guys!

[MNtraveler]

Steps are here: https://www.reserveamerica.com/outdo...rize-an-rv.htm

The connection is easier to do than to explain in writing!!

There are two options:

1. Use a tire fillling connector with an adaptor like this for the city water fitting that you can get on Amazon or at Camping World:

Camco 36104 Plastic Blow Out Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLW3E..._7zbtAb7YDRWD5

Downside: someone has to hold the air line to the plug while someone else handles the faucets. (Also need to
Limit pressure to ~30 psi.)

2. connect air line to city water fitting with a blow-out plug hose like this:

Quick Products QP-BOPQC Blow Out Plug With Brass Quick Connect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9APBFC..._cDbtAb5SWZVW3

Which is a quick connect air fitting

Or this:

https://www.campingworld.com/shoppin...out-hose/69232

Which is a screw-on Air hose fitting. [This is what I use.]

If you can't get the compressed air line (gas station or otherwise) limited to 30 psi, you will need one of these:

Bostitch BTFP72326 Regulator and Gauge Kit with 1/4-Inch NPT Thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXD2V36..._yIbtAbS2CCG71

Which has standard screw fittings on both ends. You will need whatever other fittings are needed to adapt any of these to the air pressure supply line you use. (For example a 1/4" male to male connector.) You can get standard adaptors and fittings at places like Northern Tool, NAPA stores, etc.