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Old 10-22-2017, 01:11 PM   #1
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Winterizing the MBS2400 (2017 in my case)

Tips, ideas, or process appreciated... the manual is generic. I blew out the system yesterday with a 20 psi flow from an air compressor running about an hour. All water from toilet, toilet wand, shower (hot/cold) and the two sinks stopped sputtering before I quit the blow out. Also emptied out the outside washdown outlet (by the tank flush port).

Grey water tank emptied, as is fresh water to the extent it can be, some gurgling in the water heater but I used gentle back pressure from the kitchen faucet to blow back most of the water in it into the freshwater tank. Tank emptied by pumping dry then air pressure. Never had air pressure applied without an outlet in the RV open so that the water system never saw the full 20 psi.

Added pink RV antifreeze to shower, bath, and kitchen drains. Extra blue water pellets into the black water tank that is near empty (one or two flushes in it max).

Problem is that I expect to use it once or twice during the winter (live in South NJ) and don't want to go through an extensive pink water purge before tripping out. I do have the arctic pack, and may opt to plug in the RV during the coldest nights for tank heat and internal heat.

My RV dealer is about 65 miles away and about $45 to $55 in bridge and turnpike tolls away. So not too eager to spend that plus service cost.

Not sure why the tank water fill at the back of the RV had little or no air leakage through filler or vent when using air through the city water hook up. Ideas?

Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:55 AM   #2
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BlueStreek,
You didn't mention if you opened the hot and cold low point drains. If not there's still water to freeze. Also fresh water tank drain. Might get a ittle more water out. Removing drain plug/anode from water heater will allow it to drain. May as well get all of the H2O out that you can!

Norm
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Old 10-23-2017, 04:40 AM   #3
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All I do on our 24R is pump 2 gal RV antifreeze thru winterizing connection. Take out water heater plug, open bypass on water heater, with the hose in the antifreeze turn on pump. When pink at every faucet your good. The pink you run down the drain will take care of the traps. Open your 2 low point drain plugs and drain your black and grey tanks. Been doing ours for 3 years with no problems. Good luck Also don't forget to open your fresh water drain back up
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:08 AM   #4
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One outlet oftenly neglected during the winterizing process is the “outside shower”.
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:52 AM   #5
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I've also heard it's a good idea to remove the water filter canister and leave it off during the winter. Some posters have commented that they come back to their motorhome to find the canisters broken. Water frozen in the threads
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwalkplumb View Post
All I do on our 24R is pump 2 gal RV antifreeze thru winterizing connection. Take out water heater plug, open bypass on water heater, with the hose in the antifreeze turn on pump. When pink at every faucet your good. The pink you run down the drain will take care of the traps. Open your 2 low point drain plugs and drain your black and grey tanks. Been doing ours for 3 years with no problems. Good luck Also don't forget to open your fresh water drain back up
I have a 2017 MBS2400R, can you tell me where the low point drains are located? I cant find them anywhere.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:48 AM   #7
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Reply and follow up to my thread on Winterizing the 2400WS

Quote:
Originally Posted by djb2400r View Post
I have a 2017 MBS2400R, can you tell me where the low point drains are located? I cant find them anywhere.

Thanks to all, and like djb2400r, I don't know where the hot/cold low point drains are nor the freshwater drain plug location. Winterizing connection location???

I've blew out the outdoor shower connection with the compressor.

The heater plug looks like a bear to remove with the heater burner obstructing access. Ideas?

Water filter... hmmm... good catch, will look into that (under bathroom sink, I believe).

It almost seems like dumping five or six gallons of the red antifreeze into the empty freshwater tank and pumping it around is the easy/lazy way to go. Comments?

All comments appreciated. I did look at the more generic winterizing thread before posting here. I was hoping for procedures that folks used on same/similar rigs.

Kind Regards,
BluStreek
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:58 AM   #8
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The low point drains on my 24R are to the left of the main entry step. They're up in there a bit - I have to get pretty low to look up for them.

To an earlier question about lack of venting through the fresh water tank fill while using a compressor on the city water connection ... The water pump has a check valve which (if working) prevents flow from the MH back into the fresh water tank. Sounds like your valve is working!

Dave
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:35 PM   #9
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Thanks Dave

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Originally Posted by DaveJordan View Post
The low point drains on my 24R are to the left of the main entry step. They're up in there a bit - I have to get pretty low to look up for them.

To an earlier question about lack of venting through the fresh water tank fill while using a compressor on the city water connection ... The water pump has a check valve which (if working) prevents flow from the MH back into the fresh water tank. Sounds like your valve is working!

Dave
Hi Dave,

Pump check valve working...excellent, thanks I suspected such but confirmation makes perfect sense!

BluStreek
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:39 PM   #10
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More Q's for the collective brain trust!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BluStreek View Post
Thanks to all, and like djb2400r, I don't know where the hot/cold low point drains are nor the freshwater drain plug location. Winterizing connection location???

I've blew out the outdoor shower connection with the compressor.

The heater plug looks like a bear to remove with the heater burner obstructing access. Ideas?

Water filter... hmmm... good catch, will look into that (under bathroom sink, I believe).

It almost seems like dumping five or six gallons of the red antifreeze into the empty freshwater tank and pumping it around is the easy/lazy way to go. Comments?

All comments appreciated. I did look at the more generic winterizing thread before posting here. I was hoping for procedures that folks used on same/similar rigs.

Kind Regards,
BluStreek
OKAY crawled around underneath and took some pictures and drained some more water... three places inside a 6" port cover (see pic)

Low point drains and winterizing valve? Valve shown is open to drain position.

Will post a few more pics in another separate posting ...
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:44 PM   #11
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Gotta figure out how to attach pics.... but in the meanwhile what does the "winterizing" toggle on the shower drain pan do? It is inside in the bathroom under the shower.
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:51 PM   #12
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Okay, no can find anything that looks like a water heater bypass valve under the chassis. Took pictures and will post them in a bit, too.

Also found that there is a dangling connector by the power entry step.

I have some concerns about the M-B chassis not charging the house batteries while the diesel motor is running. Does it? How to easily check? I've been keeping my RV hooked up to home power while in the driveway more often than I'd like to be safe.

Sorry... trying to get things wrapped up before the foul weather hits our sunny corner of NJ!
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djb2400r View Post
I have a 2017 MBS2400R, can you tell me where the low point drains are located? I cant find them anywhere.
I think I found them under the back area enclosing the fresh water tank. Inside a 6" or so port cover that twists out. One valve drains the FW tank itself, and the other two lines look like they held standing water so perhaps they are low water drains (just a cap on a hose each). The valve show in the drain open position...
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:59 PM   #14
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WH bypass for Blustreak

In my Solera 24R MBS the bypass is behind the panel under the wardrobe next to the refrigerator. I'm guessing it is the same in your 2400r
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveJordan View Post
The low point drains on my 24R are to the left of the main entry step. They're up in there a bit - I have to get pretty low to look up for them.

To an earlier question about lack of venting through the fresh water tank fill while using a compressor on the city water connection ... The water pump has a check valve which (if working) prevents flow from the MH back into the fresh water tank. Sounds like your valve is working!

Dave

Okay I posted the pics in another reply, showing immediately to the left (to the rear of) the main entry step, and then another back further on the back end of the propane tank. No obvious plumbing appears to me. Models must be different, thanks for trying Dave!
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:08 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by BluStreek View Post
I think I found them under the back area enclosing the fresh water tank. Inside a 6" or so port cover that twists out. One valve drains the FW tank itself, and the other two lines look like they held standing water so perhaps they are low water drains (just a cap on a hose each). The valve show in the drain open position...

Another picture for the curious further up the port under the fresh water tank and arctic heating pad...
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:25 PM   #17
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Last one for a while folks! ...promise (fingers crossed)

Is this the aforementioned and dreaded water heater drain plug?

Note the "easy" access"... Picture rotated 90 degrees clockwise, actual tubing runs horizontally. I'm off to see if I can find an Attwood manual for the GC6AA-10E water heater online somewhere.

F-R certainly has made winterizing a real quest!

...from the Attwood manual (easy find, d/l'd as a pdf)

WINTERIZING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Turn off your main water supply, that is, your pump or
your water hook up source.
2. Drain your water heater inner tank. Upon doing so, you
will note that, due to the location of the drain plug,
approximately two quarts of water will remain in the
bottom of the tank. This water contains most of the
harmful corrosive particles. If while draining the unit, you
note that it is flowing sporadically or trickling, instead of
flowing steadily, we recommend one of two things. You
should first open your relief valve to allow air into the
tank and secondly, take a small gauge wire or coat
hanger device and prod through the drain opening to
eliminate any obstructions.
3. After thoroughly draining the tank, you should then flush
it with air pressure or fresh water. If you elect to use air
pressure, it may be applied either through the inlet or
outlet on the rear of the tank. It may also be applied
through the relief valve part. In this case, it will be
necessary to first remove the relief valve support flange.
In either case, with the drain valve open, the air pressure
will force the remaining water, along with the corrosive
particles, out of the unit. However, if air pressure is
unavailable, your unit can be flushed with fresh water.
Fresh water should be pumped into the tank either with
the assistance of the on-board pump or with the
assistance of external water either through the inlet or
outlet found on the rear or the relief valve coupling
located on the front of the unit. Continue this flushing
process for approximately five minutes allowing ample
time for the fresh water to agitate the stagnant water on
the bottom of the tank and thus forcing the deposits
through the drain opening.
4. Upon completion of the steps above, replace the drain
plug and the pressure-temperature relief valve.
5. After this procedure, there will be approximately two
quarts of water left at the bottom of the inner tank.
Should this water freeze it will not cause any splitting of
the tank.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:36 PM   #18
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WH drain

If you go outside your coach and open the WH door you will see the anode rod/drain. Remove this ( mine is a 11/8 socket) this will drain your HW tank. It looks like your pics are for the pump winterization hose and valve. Remember WH bypass is accessed from inside coach. Remove panel under wardrobe close red valve and blue valve open valve in between the two. Thats the bypass.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:44 PM   #19
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I missed this from Rkloud9 about a month ago under "draining fresh water tank"... pretty comprehensive... Thanks!!!


Originally Posted by Rkloud9
If you are finding the two hoses inside the low point access panel (screw-on cap about 5" in diameter under the RV just in front of the rear bumper on the driver's side), there is also a small valve coming out of the bottom of the fresh water tank that is the tank drain, also in the same area. I believe the two hoses are for draining the hot and cold plumbing lines, separate from the tank.

Under the shower is another access panel to get to the water pump. Next to that panel is the "winterize" valve. You will find a hose attached to that valve inside the same pump access panel. Flipping that valve to "winterize" redirects the suction from the pump to this hose, which can be placed in a bottle of RV anti-freeze... this will send the antifreeze throughout the plumbing of your camper. DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS until you understand how all the plumbing works in your RV... many folks effectively winterize their units by draining all the water and blowing out the pipes with a tire pump or small compressor. Whichever method you use, be sure of the following:

- all tanks are empty.
- water heater is drained - there is a drain plug accessed from the outside water heater access panel.
- water heater by-pass valves are properly set... these are under/behind the drawer under the stove... there is another removable panel under this drawer that gets to these valves, or just take out the drawer. These valves allow you to take the water heater out of loop so you can run the antifreeze through the plumbing without filling the water heater with antifreeze.
- water filter under the bathroom sink is drained and removed. Re-assemble the housing if using antifreeze.
- outside shower hose drained.
- toilet "washing-wand" drained.
- shower wand/hose drained.
- kitchen and bath sink water valves drained
- RV Anti-freeze poured into sink and shower traps

If you are going the "compressed air blowing out pipes" route, using that tool will aid in getting all the water out of the above mentioned hoses, pipes, valves...

If you use the pump to distribute the anti-freeze, first be sure the water heater is drained and by-passed (otherwise you will waste 6 gallons of antifreeze!)

It is helpful to have a helper at the water pump switch.

With the hose in the anti-freeze bottle, and all valves off, go to each faucet/toilet/shower valve, turn on the pump, and open each valve until you see pink, then shut off the pump/close the valve. Start at the kitchen sink, as that is the longest run. You will be surprised how fast that little pump sucks out the anti-freeze (thus, the helper!) 2-3 gallons of anti freeze does the job.

Hope this helps!

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:03 PM   #20
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I'll check it out tomorrow, but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supersprink View Post
If you go outside your coach and open the WH door you will see the anode rod/drain. Remove this ( mine is a 11/8 socket) this will drain your HW tank. It looks like your pics are for the pump winterization hose and valve. Remember WH bypass is accessed from inside coach. Remove panel under wardrobe close red valve and blue valve open valve in between the two. Thats the bypass.
I may opt not to use the RV antifreeze in the water system (just the drains/traps), and therefore not do the bypass of the WH... I've been thorough on the water purging. I will pull the WH drain tomorrow just to see what water was left by all of my efforts. Apparently even "emptied" the tank will hold a couple of residual quarts safely through freeze/thaw according to the Attwood winterizing instruction. I want to make sure that is what I have in the tank, not a lot more. Now to dig up a 1 1/8" socket and extensions to work around the burner tubing... I will track down the WH bypass just for my information while at this it is in the undersink cabinet area in my model, I believe.

Thank you Supersprink!
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