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Old 08-13-2018, 10:59 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by cavie View Post
Yes, this is done by lots of folks and is a very economical permanent fix. Easy to do. I would go with the second roof unit. Wiring can be run across the ceiling with wiremold to a closet and down thru the trailer floor.
Thanks much! Appreciate your confirmation that I am not losing it completely!
Larry
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:22 AM   #22
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I think it's a fine idea, and I wouldn't worry about the concern that somehow a 15/20amp residential outlet on your RV pedestal is somehow 'wired' in such a way as to not be able to use it at the same time you use the 30amp outlet, that's not how electrical wiring works. But, I will say this, the breaker for the pedestal in the Main breaker panel will be the final determination of how many total amps that can be drawn from the pedestal. I seriously doubt that any electrician is trained to provide a main breaker that is less than 50amps for this scenario. If they did, they would be constantly getting request to come look at a pedestal because the coach has lost power, AND the pedestal has lost power... finding the need to either 'explain' a smaller main breaker, get onto the customer for 'using too much power', or to have to change the breaker then to the appropriate size.

I've also never seen any campground or rv park 'limit' the usage of any or all the outlets on a pedestal.... they are there to be used. I've used the residential outlet to power a heater for my wet bay in freezing temps, and also to power some additional fans for inside the coach during hot weather, and a lot of other scenarios that called for it, except for the campgrounds with ONLY a 30amp outlet, and NO residential additional one(yep, they're out there too).
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
I'm not arguing and seriously want to learn. But I can't wrap my head around the 50.5 amps start-up current. The A/C is on a 20amp breaker in the panel in the camper. A 30amp campsite is on a 30amp breaker at the pedastal.

How does 50.5amps get past both breakers?
It's because the current peaks for such a short duration of under 1 cycle (1/60th of a sec.), the breaker can't react fast enough and won't trip . Motor momentary inrush current can be as high as 5-6 times full load current (and more sometimes) yet the breaker will have a much smaller rating. Breakers for motors are usually sized just large enough to ensure a motor will start and still provide some overload protection. In some cases breakers can be reduced in size as long as it doesn't trip and isn't smaller than the wire size. The NEC will have a table(s) for breakers vs. motor sizes.

When voltage goes down, motors will generate less horsepower. In the case of air conditioner units however, the compressor load remains about the same but the motor under low voltage will draw more current to make enough power to try and get the compressor going. And if the motor takes longer to get started and along with higher current draw, the windings can overheat. If things get bad enough, a motor's overload element can trip or the supply breaker can trip. Damage to windings is cumulative over time and won't be apparent for some time until it's too late...
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