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Old 03-25-2015, 11:07 PM   #1
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Dry camping 101

I've had a 195bh for about 8 months now and used it for 6-7 trips, always in a campground with hookups. I want to start using for short dry camping trips but don't have a clue what's going to work and for how long. My first dry camp will be a short 2 day / 1 night stay over. Is there somewhere I can learn the basics?
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Old 03-26-2015, 01:22 AM   #2
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First thing is to get two 12v deep cycle or 6v golf cart batteries.
The next step would be an inverter generator or a solar setup.
If longer than two days, a blue tote tank for gray water and something to transport fresh water in.

Don't know of any book.
Some RV forums have a boondocking/dry camping section to read threads about It.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:42 AM   #3
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What exactly is an inverted for, and how much wattage is needed?
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Old 03-29-2015, 03:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golfnbike13 View Post
What exactly is an inverted for, and how much wattage is needed?
i think you mean "inverter".
all RV's have a converter, to convert 110v AC power to 12v DC power.

but only some RV's come with an inverter, does the opposite, inverts 12v DC power to 110v AC power. usually only some motorhomes come with them.
most RV owners have to add one to their RV.

i added a 400w inverter to run the tv/dvd and also recharge electronic devices.
but i have two 12v deep cycle batteries and a Honda 2000 for recharging the depleted batteries.

the Honda is an "inverter" generator, meaning it will idle at the lowest speed until a demand is put on it.
non-inverter generators, like open-frame cheap ones, will only run full speed and therefore much louder.
inverter generators are usually much quieter because of this feature, but usually will cost more.
Honda and Yamaha are the gold standard for inverter generators. but there have been other brands in the past few years that are putting out good ones at lower prices.
Champion is one example.

as to how much wattage is needed, it depends on what you want to run.
for anything BUT the a/c, 2000w generator will do everything else.
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:59 AM   #5
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Dry camping means if you want it you have to bring it. That's water, propane, a generator if you feel you will need it to charge your battery/batteries, run your AC, TV, etc. You can get enough solar to keep your battery/batteries charged as there will be a parasite drainage from your propane detector, fridge, hot water heater light on the panel etc. It all depends on how long you will be dry camping. For a weekend you might get away with 1 battery not being charged by a gen set or solar depending on what you use that requires power from the battery. I've always had 2 batteries on my TTs & 5ers along with a gen set & solar. We dry camp for at least 10 days at a stretch and we're completely self sufficient. Last summer we dry camped for 3 weeks in the Rockies. For that length of time there are a lot more things to consider like sewage, potable water, etc. I have a meter on my batteries to tell me what the voltage is. I don't depend on the lights on the panel. If you trailer is in your driveway or close by, try camping in it without the comforts of plugging in and hooking up the water. Get out there and try it.
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golfnbike13 View Post
I've had a 195bh for about 8 months now and used it for 6-7 trips, always in a campground with hookups. I want to start using for short dry camping trips but don't have a clue what's going to work and for how long. My first dry camp will be a short 2 day / 1 night stay over. Is there somewhere I can learn the basics?
During your first trip, you'll have to figure out what is a necessity. Lights? Heat? Water? 120vac for the microwave or tv?

My suggestion for your first dry camp since its overnight is to just go.

Power: One night, one good battery, you should be ok. If not, then consider a new battery for the next trip. Turn off all battery draw like the fridge condensate heater. You'll have to be conservative with lights..only turn on the ones you'll need when you need them...especially if you don't have LEDs. The furnace is a power hog, if needed, keep the temp very low after you go to bed, and off when not at camp.

Water: Be very conservative with the water...showers are out unless you bring a bunch of water jugs. Make due with wash cloth baths..especially since your trip is only one night. Wash your dishes by using a small bowl with soapy water instead of filling the sink with water. One night shouldn't be too bad.

Keep the fridge and water heater on propane. Make coffee over the oven using a perculator coffee maker (cheap one work great)

Don't forget about dumping your tanks...where are you going to do that? Are you able to find a park that will let you dumo for a fee? Can you dump at home? You'll have to figure that out!

Personally, don't spend any money on serious upgrades like batteries or solar yet. Go in baby steps...conserve your resources first (like turn off lights), then buy stuff that'll help conserve those resources (like LED lights), finally upgrade to extending more of those resources (batteries and solar). Of course if you know something is bad..such as your battery, then go ahead and replace or upgrade it.

Good luck
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Old 03-29-2015, 08:00 AM   #7
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Dry camping 101

You always have your TV to charge the battery for you test night away. ^^^ radsp is right on.
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Old 03-29-2015, 11:12 AM   #8
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Like they said above, you need to figure out how you'll live when dry camping. If possible, camp driveway to the rescue!

Fill the fresh tank, then, camp in the yard. Make dinner, entertain the kids, etc, spend the night out there, then get ready in the morning as you normally would. Keep tabs on battery power, etc.

Depending on weather and if you needed the furnace you'll likely find the battery down 30% or so. If the furnace was needed then you'll probably find it at the 50% or less mark, try not to cross 50% state of charge (12.06V is considered 50%) as that's rough on the battery.

For a single night you should be fine, most 12V deep cycle batteries should be ok. For longer then I'd recommend adding another 12V battery or upgrading to two (Or four) 6V batteries. They typically have more amp hours and are considered more durable than 12V batteries.

Here's what I do for dry camping.
Four 6V batteries in a split pair arrangement with a switch. That way if one battery fails I can turn that side off. Currently I have 460ah at my disposal.

1200w inverter to run my 120V only cpap machine, and I've run the tv off it too.

Two Honda EU2000i generators. You only need one until it's time for air conditioning.

Four six gallon potable water jugs, soon to be six. I will be able to carry 36 extra gallons with me or go get 36 gallons at a time.

I've got a tote and store, but thankfully in 13 years I've never needed it. I'll check and see if I can let my gray drain in the trees, so far everywhere I've been has been cool with that.

I camped in 19* weather, the furnace set to 55* (Blankets are your friend) and watching one movie plus running my cpap all night my batteries would be down about 25-30% or 12.35-12.45V.

One other thing, paper plates. You go through an insane amount of water washing dishes. Use paper plates, be sparing with washing pans.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:03 PM   #9
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Lots of great information, thanks for everything but. Couple other thoughts.
1. My fridge is just the 120v kind so I'm assuming it will not function, so I should plan to use a cooler?
2. Is the water pump ran off battery. I've always been hooked to a water supply so I haven't even used the holding tank and pump yet.
3. I have a new deep cycle 12v battery so I'm assuming I should make it through one night.
4. So I should assume none of the power outlets will work unless I install an inverter?
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:59 PM   #10
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Answer:
#1. Right. Unless you get an inverter and increase your capacity (more battery) you can't use your fridge.
#2 yes, its 12v.
#3 depends. If you're conservative with lights and heat, you should be fine.
#4 that's correct. No inverter, no 120v outlets.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:12 PM   #11
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Your fridge should be AC and propane unless someone has replaced it. It should run on the propane like when you're travelling.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:40 PM   #12
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Your fridge should be AC and propane unless someone has replaced it. It should run on the propane like when you're travelling.

This is pretty much a starter camper with basics. There is no option to switch the fridge from shore power to propane. So I'm assuming it's just 120v?
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:28 PM   #13
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Hi Golfnbike13, didn't know you could get just an ac only. I see from the FR website that the ac/propane is an option. So, probably running an inverter would kill a battery. Maybe there's some specs on amperage on a label somewhere on the fridge? If it's a compressor style fridge (vs the dielectric cooling element) you definitely would be out of luck with an inverter. I once tried that with an apartment style (1.3 cube) fridge in my popup. I bought a 2k inverter and it still wouldn't kick the compressor over.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:45 PM   #14
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I'm 95% sure it's AC only and I believe it's a compressor. I've still got the winter cover on but will check this weekend when I de-winterize. Would love to upgrade to a 2way fridge if possible.
So what size inverter do I need? Is that something i can install myself?
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:12 PM   #15
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golfnbike , what ibfo do u need on the fridge, we got the same model and mine is right outside
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:19 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Golfnbike13 View Post
I'm 95% sure it's AC only and I believe it's a compressor. I've still got the winter cover on but will check this weekend when I de-winterize. Would love to upgrade to a 2way fridge if possible.
So what size inverter do I need? Is that something i can install myself?
You're gonna open up a can of worms now. You'll have to find out what the wattage of your fridge is then size an inverter to be larger than that. I'd go 2-3x bigger, more is better, but don't go obscene with the inverter wattage. Then you'll have to upgrade your battery to batteries. Either multiple 12volt batteries or dual 6v.

The actual power used by the fridge will vary with ambient temperatures and how often it's opened and of course its temperature setting.
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Golfnbike13 View Post
I'm 95% sure it's AC only and I believe it's a compressor. I've still got the winter cover on but will check this weekend when I de-winterize. Would love to upgrade to a 2way fridge if possible.
So what size inverter do I need? Is that something i can install myself?
Not sure why you chose a trailer with an AC-only fridge, if you expected to do some dry camping.
suggest you post the brand/model of the fridge or a pic of it.
you would need a big inverter wired into the system and a bank of 4 batteries. Where are you going to put 4 batteries on the tongue of your trailer?

You'd be better off going back to the dealer you bought it from and trade that fridge out for a propane/AC fridge.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:07 PM   #18
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Bought it preowned so came that way. Rarely do dry camping so not a big deal, it's so small I don't care to just use s cooler when needed. Might eventually replace it with a 2way.
I'm not worried about running the fridge off an inverter, I just meant what wattage do I need in general for everything else?
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:48 PM   #19
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Everything else (which I don't think you have much) will run off the 12v system. Lights, furnace, water pump, and water heater (water heater and furnace are propane but run off of 12v controls). So, you don't need an inverter for those. But, you probably won't get more than a day or two max without some way to charge the battery. Also, if you have AC or want to run your micro you'll need a power source (Gen or solar w/inverter). Search Boondocking and you'll get a ton of info to size what you need.

PS jumper cables off your car won't work to charge your battery but does a great job on killing your car battery...
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:20 PM   #20
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That's actually good to know about the TV battery. Can I leave the trailer plugged to the vehicle or will it drain my truck battery ?
If needed could I plug trailer to truck and let it run a little for the alternator to charge trailer battery?
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