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03-26-2015, 02:50 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
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leveling our Travel trailer
Hi everyone we are getting ready to go on our first camping trip with our 23 foot Salem Travel trailer. Since our trailer is used and we don't have an owners manual do you have the slide out or in before you level the T.T. ? This is our first T.T. so we have a lot to learn. Thank you Neil and Maureen
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03-26-2015, 03:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,443
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It all comes with trial and error, on mine I have to set it up a 1/4 of a bubble off on the level then unhook and put all my stabilizers down. When I open our slides after everything is set the weight of them trues everything up and it is level. I keep 3 2" x 8" x 4' boards and 1 5/4 " x 6" x 4'. When I back the trailer in to the spot at the CG I put the 2" x 8" x 4' under the wheels then ck level and decide on how much more I need on the slide side and either add the 5/4 or the other 2" x 8" .
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Think about things before you do them make life easier not harder.
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03-26-2015, 03:08 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat travelers
Hi everyone we are getting ready to go on our first camping trip with our 23 foot Salem Travel trailer. Since our trailer is used and we don't have an owners manual do you have the slide out or in before you level the T.T. ? This is our first T.T. so we have a lot to learn. Thank you Neil and Maureen
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The rig should be level first, but you can get into trouble if the rig twisted. I would say if it is close to level operate the slides first. It is possible for the weigh of the slide to cause it to lean that way (particularly if there is only one slide on a smaller unit, so you might have to check level after and relevel if needed. That is why many folks operate the slides first; then level. The owner's manual you are missing probably is nearly useless anyway, but you might try to get one.
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Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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03-26-2015, 03:15 PM
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#4
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Slides in. You can't level side to side without moving the camper forward/backward and I personally wouldn't do it with my own camper (not on a regular basis).
See if this helps:
Learn To RV: RV Leveling is Really Quick and Easy
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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03-26-2015, 04:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Whereever our Berkshire is Parked!
Posts: 7,082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat travelers
Hi everyone we are getting ready to go on our first camping trip with our 23 foot Salem Travel trailer. Since our trailer is used and we don't have an owners manual do you have the slide out or in before you level the T.T. ? This is our first T.T. so we have a lot to learn. Thank you Neil and Maureen
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Hi Old Goat! Welcome to the Forums and congrats on your new TT!!
Here is a extract from my 5th wheel checklist (adapted for your Travel Trailer)
Recommended items:
2-3' bubble level (you can get em cheap at Harbor Freight)
Anderson Leveler (SO much easier than Lego blocks!)
BAL X-Chocks (to stop any front-to-rear movement while camped)
Both the above can be purchased from Amazon.com
- BEFORE unhooking, use your level and check your Right-Left Level
- If you use a Andersen Leveler, put it behind the low-side trailer wheel(s) and back up until you are level.
- If you use Lego blocks it will be a trial and error process to see how many blocks you need to get level
- Once level, put on the BAL X-Chocks
- Your rig is now secure, unhitch and drive the TV forward
- Get the level and, check the front-rear level
- Using your tongue jack, raise or lower the tongue until front-rear is level
- Lower your rear stabilizer jacks
Presto, you are done!
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Bob & Anne-Marie [BamaBob & 6 Actual]
| 2017 Berkshire XLT 43A with Ultrasteer Tag | Blue Ox Avail + KarGard II |
| SMI AF-1 Air Brake | 2016 Jeep Cherokee Overland TOAD | Pedego Bikes |
Nights Camped: 2013 - 24 • 2014 - 42 • 2015 - 56 • Jul 2016 - Fulltime •
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03-26-2015, 07:37 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
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Thank you for all the great info. One thing I didn't tell you is I have one of those slide out braces that help support the slide, don't know if I need it but that is another thing to think about when leveling.
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03-26-2015, 07:49 PM
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#7
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat travelers
Thank you for all the great info. One thing I didn't tell you is I have one of those slide out braces that help support the slide, don't know if I need it but that is another thing to think about when leveling.
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Would highly suggest you find another use for your slide out braces to support the slide. IF the camper settles any or you should have a tire go down, there will be damage to the slide that is supported with your supports.
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03-26-2015, 08:30 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
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good to know thank you.
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03-27-2015, 11:43 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Lenexa,
Posts: 110
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Leveling seems to be a constant problem of trial and error. This year I intend to go to an empty parking lot that looks level...then level it and screw in the bible levels permanent. I had always used the stick on bubbles which always were questionable. Good luck!
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03-27-2015, 12:35 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 114
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Nothing to add except I really like your name Old Goat Travelers, LMAO.
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FOREST RIVER FW 8524RLWS
2010 FORD F 150 5.4
#1-18' Nomad #2- 20' Mallard #3- 27' Sunline #4- Four Winds C #5- Innsbruck 40' PARK # 6- 28' Amerilite #7- Forest River 26.5 FW ( 1st FW)
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03-27-2015, 01:37 PM
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#11
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Boss Ox & Drovergirl
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: N.E. Ohio Snow Belt
Posts: 1,341
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I use a 2' carpenter's level on the floor, an arms length inside the door. Bubble levels are not accurate enough for my liking, the longer length of the carpenter's level in the middle of the trailer gives a better indication. One of us watches the level and the other repositions the trailer for side to side. Simply watch the level while activating the tongue jack with the remote for front to back. Nothing to attach to the trailer either.
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Mark, Vicki, & Scout THE dog
2015 Hemisphere 282RK
2016 GMC 3500HD Duramax dually
1992 Goldwing Aspencade
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03-27-2015, 01:40 PM
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#12
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Boss Ox & Drovergirl
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: N.E. Ohio Snow Belt
Posts: 1,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Would highly suggest you find another use for your slide out braces to support the slide. IF the camper settles any or you should have a tire go down, there will be damage to the slide that is supported with your supports.
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2X
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Mark, Vicki, & Scout THE dog
2015 Hemisphere 282RK
2016 GMC 3500HD Duramax dually
1992 Goldwing Aspencade
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03-27-2015, 01:56 PM
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#13
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oxcamper
I use a 2' carpenter's level on the floor, an arms length inside the door. Bubble levels are not accurate enough for my liking, the longer length of the carpenter's level in the middle of the trailer gives a better indication. One of us watches the level and the other repositions the trailer for side to side. Simply watch the level while activating the tongue jack with the remote for front to back. Nothing to attach to the trailer either.
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So much easier to mount the big level on the front of the trailer, use Anderson Levelers and just watch the bubble as you back, lock the wheels, unhook and level front to back, run the stabilizers down and in 5 minutes it's done. Takes from 1 hr to 2 days to finish unloading.
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03-27-2015, 03:03 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Northern KY
Posts: 5,725
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I have glued on permanent bubble levels on the drivers side front and the passenger side rear of my TT. I can just about see (I like Old Coots big level) the front level in my rear view mirror and my partner keeps an eye on the rear level. When backing we both try to agree that the trailer is within 1/2 a bubble of being level... equal on front and back. If needed, I pull back forward and use a 2 X 8 board (almost always, if needed) on the driver's side, to put that side higher. If you read the directions on most RV bubble levels they say they are graduated. One mark off level equals one inch needed under the tires on the low side.
A 2 X 8 board is actually 1 5/8 inches tall (not 2"). I have two of these boards I can stack if necessary, but have only needed two boards once on a very unevenly paved site.
Chock your wheels, then unhook the trailer, use your stabilizers to get side to side nearly perfect. In my experience being 1/2 a bubble off makes no difference. I also have one of these bubble levels near the door on the side and the DW watches for front to back level which I perform with the electric jack on the front. I then go around one last time and make sure the 4 corner stailizers are snug to the ground and check the two front/back levels one more time. Do this a couple of times and you will have mastered it.
NOW, if I could only remember to take the antenna mast down each time I move...
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03-27-2015, 03:09 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat travelers
Thank you for all the great info. One thing I didn't tell you is I have one of those slide out braces that help support the slide, don't know if I need it but that is another thing to think about when leveling.
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i don't think that brace is for supporting the slide underneath, which is NOT advised.
it should be a brace for keeping the slide from moving out, while traveling, NOT for underneath.
a pic of it would help figure that out for sure.
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2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
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03-28-2015, 09:45 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 194
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Agree with Mark0224. We level our Windjammer @ 1/4 bubble off, put down the stabilizers, and then run the slides out. The weight of the slides levels it perfectly.
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VMI'62
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03-28-2015, 09:54 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maryland
Posts: 40
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Our owner's manual and dealer requires us to level the trailer first and then put the slide out.
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2010 Surveyor 294
2006 Ford E-350 Van 5.4
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03-28-2015, 10:39 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 981
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There's an iPhone app called "RV Companion"... It's free. There's a level in the app. Once you calibrate the leveler, you just lay it on the floor of your camper when you pull in. It will tell you exactly how many inches you need to raise which ever side is low. Takes all the guess work out of the process.
2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Toyota Tundra 5.7L CrewMax
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L
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03-28-2015, 02:21 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
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Thank you so much for your time and help, We have learned plenty already. We live in Phx. and we are leaving this coming Monday for upper Az. with mountains and Pine trees and just camp out for a while to see how everything works. I want to see if my Dodge ram 1500 4.7 engine auto trans will pull this T.T. up those long steep hills . I expect it to bog down some but if it's real bad I might have to start looking for a diesel .
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03-29-2015, 08:24 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDHfan
There's an iPhone app called "RV Companion"... It's free. There's a level in the app. Once you calibrate the leveler, you just lay it on the floor of your camper when you pull in. It will tell you exactly how many inches you need to raise which ever side is low. Takes all the guess work out of the process.
2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Toyota Tundra 5.7L CrewMax
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
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Did they fix the issue where when an item is deleted, it crashes? And, have you ever verified the level accuracy?
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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