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Old 08-02-2015, 08:20 AM   #41
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Looks like the magic word for tie downs is anchor. I will work on that.
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:56 AM   #42
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I want one of these
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:21 AM   #43
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I've got water, 30 amp service, all the amenities of pools etc., paved roads, the woods, propane delivery, tv and close to work and 50% of the place is fulltimers. Not sure what you mean by not long term where I am putting it? Just not a concrete or asphalt surface or what?
My point about long term was ONLY referring to the ground, leveling and sinking. That's why I made reference to campsites having concrete, or asphalt, or gravel, or sand. The place you are in sounds wonderful and once you get over this hurtle you will be in very nice surroundings.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:35 AM   #44
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I now know what a bottle jack is, probably not the best thing to use with the height I have. Best bet looks like the higher ones which should allow me enough time to get something under the tire and then just use them as additional stabilizers after that.

Only question is... under the axle, I presume to get some tire lift to add height? Then put them under frame to stabilize? Do I have that right?
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:41 AM   #45
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Thanks Eddie, I thought maybe I had made some dire mistake. I have license to pretty much do with the property as I wish, haul in stone, pavers, decks, you name it, so long as it looks good and not junked up. So I will devise a plan for the area under the tires to harden it, perhaps dig down a bit past the soft stuff and pave the area, then secure the pavers at the sides so they don't slide. I could actually do all this build up beside the tires and make it level from the start. Then get someone to pull it up and back it over my newly paved and leveled side to side platform. Yeah, that will work and I can build it without moving it till it's time.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:38 AM   #46
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Someone tell me what is wrong with this plan? I can build it on the outside of where the tires are currently, making sure they are level at the top and maybe use some thinset between the layers whether 2 or 3 layers are needed, let it set, then have somone drive it up onto them.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:08 AM   #47
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Someone tell me what is wrong with this plan? I can build it on the outside of where the tires are currently, making sure they are level at the top and maybe use some thinset between the layers whether 2 or 3 layers are needed, let it set, then have somone drive it up onto them.
Now you have a good plan except you can't build it on the outside of where your tires are now since it would be too wide for your tires. You need to build it behind your tires. Pull the trailer forward so you can build this behind and then back it in. Of course that requires 2 pulls from a truck but don't see anyway to do this otherwise. Don't think you want to crawl behind one of the tires to do this.


You must be a graphic artist. Nice work.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:10 AM   #48
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Someone tell me what is wrong with this plan? I can build it on the outside of where the tires are currently, making sure they are level at the top and maybe use some thinset between the layers whether 2 or 3 layers are needed, let it set, then have somone drive it up onto them
looks like a good plan

IMO I would use 2x10 OR even 2x12 pressure treated lumber
Home Depot will cut 10 foot long lumber into equal lengths for you each 5 feet long
no need for anything between the boards if two on top of each other are necessary

I would use a bottle jack to just lift the camper on one side and place a board or two, then jack the other side and put in a board on the other if necessary. I would arm myself with at least one piece of 5x4 (1 inch thick) pressure treated decking lumber for something a little thinner then 2 inch (actually close to only 1.5 inch thick) lumber so that you can have some leeway when placing under tires.

You can always stack some lumber under the short jacks to make them taller for added height for needed stability under the jack legs.

I would not even think about moving the trailer any more is it appears to be positioned fine. Just use a jack to get it level side to side. A scrap piece of 4x4 lumber used on the trailer frame on top of the jack would help keep your frame from getting nicked or dented when using the bottle jack.

If you want secure a tie down, consider using those big screw in the ground hooks that are used to secure dog chains to the ground. They screw into the ground about a foot deep and are pretty hard to pull out of even sandy soil.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-42572-Sp...s=spiral+stake
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:12 PM   #49
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I now know what a bottle jack is, probably not the best thing to use with the height I have. Best bet looks like the higher ones which should allow me enough time to get something under the tire and then just use them as additional stabilizers after that.

Only question is... under the axle, I presume to get some tire lift to add height? Then put them under frame to stabilize? Do I have that right?
The bottle Jack is JUST to lift the tire so you can add your hopefully large like 12"X12" pavers to gain that inch or two per that you need then take the Jack out. The Stabilizers like the 30" Camco or whatever are not to LIFT they just put pressure at points to Stabilize the frame from small movement as you move around in the trailer.

Harbor Freight probably lowest price for a serviceable bottle jack or if they are not in your area then the Auto Parts Chains should have one. The 8 ton is not because your lift point weighs 8 tons (16,000 lbs) it is because it lifts a couple thousand pounds with less effort and you will be able to do it without arms of Popeye the Sailor. I bought a 6 ton and wish I had a more powerful one every time I have to jack one up.

You will appreciate that by the time you lift two wheels, let alone how much you will like the lifting capacity if you have to do it repeatedly to keep up with settling soil.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:52 PM   #50
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I'm only about an inch off now, but it makes a huge difference and I am sure it will sink more as the rain is not letting up. I am probably going to get all my supplies and wait and see if the rains let up at all, if not atleast what I have there should have sunk as much as it's going to by then. I hope.

Now I have a new problem, it just never ends. And, it's sunday. And, I left the manuals in the unit. I can't get the back leveling gear to go back up, they'll go down, but not up. So, I go looking for the little windy jack thing to take them up manually, hoping that will jar it in to working again. NO WINDY THING! I found one, but wrong head on it for nuts. I can't find a nut on this thing just some round thing sticking out with a straight pin through it. Nope, don't have anything to turn that. I bought driveway grade pavers to put underneath the leveling jacks. I really don't like those yellow plastic things, they give and everything. Anyone else run into this problem? It's like the up/retract switch just isn't working.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:26 PM   #51
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Apparently Lippert jacks do this kind of thing all the time and they suck. Great, I've had the unit 2 days.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:07 PM   #52
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You might have heard that the Rv lifestyle will take your mind off your worries. Yup it will, but they didn't tell you exactly why did they? Now you know.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:22 PM   #53
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Unbelievable, right?

If you want a laugh, here is the last 4 weeks of my life:

Decide to move into campground nearby.
Decide to sell house.
Start prepping house to sell... yard, repairs, etc.
Spontaneously buy a travel trailer (in 45 minutes) I was on my way to meet friends for lunch.
Go to the bank and yank out tens of thousands of dollars to pay for said trailer.
Decide I don't need my fairly new car and go motorcycle shopping.
Next day, take a refresher class to see if my legs are too old and messed up to ride.
They were. After 2 hours of class, I cried like a girl and ran back to the motorcycle dealership.
That afternoon, bought a 600cc Silverwing scooter cycle and have it triked out. A bunch of money out of the bank once again.
Still waiting on that to be delivered next week.
Talked to car dealership to unload my car after I get the trike. No problem.
Nearby lightening bolt strikes killing my pond pump, my washing machine, my fairly new 4 ton air conditioner and my newer well water system. More money out of the bank.
Raccoon busted through the soffits again and is living in my attic... anyone got a gun?
Take delivery of my Salem travel trailer. Well, you know the rest.
So, what have you done in the past 4 weeks? LOL
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:29 PM   #54
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Hey, all of you folks have been more than helpful. Thank you for all of your advice, information, suggestions and time. Hopefully I will get this sorted out and fixed and I will post pix of my solution.

Any more ideas? Just post them, thank you!
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:00 PM   #55
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Switch may be bad or maybe a loose wire. Remove and check. I'd go to the dealer and get your emergency crank. Later RJD
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:16 PM   #56
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First thing tomorrow
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:35 PM   #57
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WACIPI - I'm going to respectfully disagree with almost all the advice you've been given so far. If your trailer is going to sit in one spot for 3 years, take the wheels off and lower it closer to the ground. IMO, as long as the trailer is supported by rubber tires and flexible springs and it's a couple of feet off the ground.... it's going to shake and wobble like crazy. I suggest finding a local RV tech or a company that moves double wide trailers through the park office. Have that guy put the large (2' X 2') heavy duty plastic footers down at the front, back, in front of and behind the axles like they use all over Florida to block up double wide trailers. Then lower the trailer onto cinder blocks and hardwood cribbing until it's low and level all around. All this work should not cost more than $500.
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:47 PM   #58
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Thank you. Another option for me to look into and weigh. I think i am going to have a sit down with both the dealership and the park. Obviously admitting my ignorance and just saying, lead me in the right direction wasnt the best idea here. I keep forgetting how greedy people are down here. Not so much the locals but those who migrate here.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:01 PM   #59
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WACIPI - I'm going to respectfully disagree with almost all the advice you've been given so far. If your trailer is going to sit in one spot for 3 years, take the wheels off and lower it closer to the ground. IMO, as long as the trailer is supported by rubber tires and flexible springs and it's a couple of feet off the ground.... it's going to shake and wobble like crazy. I suggest finding a local RV tech or a company that moves double wide trailers through the park office. Have that guy put the large (2' X 2') heavy duty plastic footers down at the front, back, in front of and behind the axles like they use all over Florida to block up double wide trailers. Then lower the trailer onto cinder blocks and hardwood cribbing until it's low and level all around. All this work should not cost more than $500.
I agree!
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:20 PM   #60
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Sad the way rv dealers treat people after the sale. We have dealt with three different rv dealers with three different trailers over the years. Two have totally incompetent techs and one just an outright crook. Wish we were closer my wife and I would have helped you out. The worst thing is when you have warranty problems it is going to be difficult to get service. I hope you make them make it good. When you get you scooter be sure you post pics. I still have my 81 gs 1100 Suzuki but haven't rode it in 20 years. Keep saying I going to rebuild the carbs and get it back on the rode. Welcome to the site and good luck. Bill
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