Newbie, Please help me

[Tom48]

Let the pressure off by lowering the front. Look for fuse, circuit breaker or otherwise be sure that corner is getting current. Borrow that crank you need from someone else in the park.

[Evereddie]

Originally Posted by wbdavey

WACIPI - I'm going to respectfully disagree with almost all the advice you've been given so far. If your trailer is going to sit in one spot for 3 years, take the wheels off and lower it closer to the ground. IMO, as long as the trailer is supported by rubber tires and flexible springs and it's a couple of feet off the ground.... it's going to shake and wobble like crazy. I suggest finding a local RV tech or a company that moves double wide trailers through the park office. Have that guy put the large (2' X 2') heavy duty plastic footers down at the front, back, in front of and behind the axles like they use all over Florida to block up double wide trailers. Then lower the trailer onto cinder blocks and hardwood cribbing until it's low and level all around. All this work should not cost more than $500.

I agreed with this post earlier but have a burning question. What kind of deal, if any, did you make with the dealer for service. Most dealers do not make house calls. There is a chance that something will break and even though it might be covered by the warranty they will require you to bring it in for repairs. Just a thought.

[Wacipi]

I foolishly figured I would have a little more than 2 days to have need for any warranty work, allowing me to set up what I need such as a repairman, a company that will tow it to the dealer and reset it at the site, etc. (hmmm, perhaps for that reason not a good idea to undo the tires).

Being in Florida and surrounded by mobile home parks, rv parks and the like, I figure it shouldn't be too hard to find someone. Reliability and price are always an issue here, it's just part of being in Florida you have to accept. I come from the northeast where people actually show up to do the work and actually know what they are doing. Down here people are so desperate for jobs since industry other than tourism is almost non existant (Gulf Coast) that they come down here and start any business they can even if they have no idea what they are doing. So it's always interesting when hiring "pros". Most of them aren't. And some of them show up to mow your lawn, cut a few tree limbs and some odd jobs and run off with your $1,000 the minute you turn your back without doing the work. Yeah, that happened over the past couple of weeks too. I'm batting a thousand here.

Thanks Tom, I'll do that tomorrow and a few other things I learned to look for with these jacks.

[Wacipi]

Tom, it has current because the extract still works, but when I hit retract it's dead, although I did get a momentary glitch of operation one or two times. It's like the connection from the button is shot, loose or something else or just broken. After only using it a few times, chances are they wore it out on the dealer lot.


After reading some other folks issues with these, and there are many, I am thinking the rocker switch contacts... maybe. I did try blowing on it this morning and I think it actually worked for a split second after that. Saw somewhere where there is a product to clean contacts and it worked for someone. Think for the life of me I can remember the name of the spray? nope

[Wacipi]

Update: FINALLY. Well the switch was bad, then the second switch went bad (on the leveling jacks) Turns out, it was wired wrong and the fuse was going in to the wrong set of wires causing the switches to fry. So one switch is replaced and another is on order, however, we got the jacks down and set.

Also, the trailer, as of today, took me a few days to get up the courage, is now level. I jacked up the axles to the 2 tires on one side, spooky stuff, then quick removed the crap plastic and through under some driveway pavers and chocked up. PERFECT! Couldn't be more level. One shot and it was all done. I had anticipated several lifts. I lucked out though. Thank you all for your help.

I'm sure I'll be back in with more issues, god I hope not!

[Evereddie]

Congrats! You are getting there finally. Soon you might be using it and one of the first things to know about is the proper care and feeding of the black tank. You do know not to leave the black tank drain into the sewer line open all the time, right? You keep it closed until the tank is at least 3/4 full then dump. Have you researched what kind of treatment you will put in the tank? Suggest reading up in the GEO method if yu have not already done so.,

[Wacipi]

Yes, I know about leaving the tank closed and waiting to empty. Haven't started using it yet, actually, want to do a "dry" run first. As for chems, I got something to start off with, but intend to do some reasearch. I will look into that method, hadn't heard of it. Thanks Ed

[Wacipi]

Eddie, I checked in to the GEO method, very doable and makes sense.

Now that the unit is level and just the one switch to the jacks to replace, I am several steps closer to wrapping this up and to start staying in it a few days a week, back and forth to the house while it is on the market, which will hopefully happen next week, the set backs with the TT has put us back a couple of weeks, but no real harm done.

The company I finally got to come out and fix the switch issues with the stabilizer jacks turns out to be a huge company that does everything including warranty work for forest river as well as.... big bonus.... they will come and fix everything on site and if they can't.... THEY WILL COME GET IT AND BRING IT BACK! Finally. Now, if I can just get them to teach me how to tow, I'll be all set, one stop shopping. Otherwise, I really need to learn if phase II of my plan is going to work.

[Scubanut]

Tractor Supply Co (TSC) has all kinds of earth anchors including up to earthquake rating. Stick a few of those into ground with some steel cable running around you axle or other points and your trailer will not be blown over or move.



2012 F150 FX4 Crew 5.0
2012 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)

[Evereddie]

Originally Posted by Wacipi

Eddie, I checked in to the GEO method, very doable and makes sense.

Now that the unit is level and just the one switch to the jacks to replace, I am several steps closer to wrapping this up and to start staying in it a few days a week, back and forth to the house while it is on the market, which will hopefully happen next week, the set backs with the TT has put us back a couple of weeks, but no real harm done.

The company I finally got to come out and fix the switch issues with the stabilizer jacks turns out to be a huge company that does everything including warranty work for forest river as well as.... big bonus.... they will come and fix everything on site and if they can't.... THEY WILL COME GET IT AND BRING IT BACK! Finally. Now, if I can just get them to teach me how to tow, I'll be all set, one stop shopping. Otherwise, I really need to learn if phase II of my plan is going to work.

That's a real SCORE on finding that company. Congrats.

[Wacipi]

Would you believe they actually drove all the way to my house to deliver the switch I accidentally let them take after replacing it? The guy came over after work and brought it to me so I wouldn't have to make the trip tomorrow. How cool is that? Turns out he grew up in Indiana and worked for Forest River for years. Even said they'd teach me to tow when the time came. Plus plus

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Many times the owners/managers of RV parks have an HD truck with hitch to move units in and out of storage on site. You might also check with the owner manager and see if they can assist. If you can get an 8 ft 2x4 that is fairly straight, you can sit one end on high side in front of tires and the other end on the low side in front of the tires. Try various combos of height of pavers etc under the low side under the 2 x 4 to get the 2 x 4 level. This is the combo of blocks that should be a good starting place.

2x4 is hardly wide enough for a tire. In fact it would be better to use a 2x8 as a 2x6 is only 5.5"wide.

[Wacipi]

I actually used 16 x 16 driveway strength pavers, figured they were stronger than simple concrete and since it is going to be there awhile I figured this would be best.