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Old 06-27-2018, 12:17 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Keith3679 View Post
In life there's people who just read and trust possible misinformation from some other source, and then there are the people who research and investigate the answer for themselves. There appear to be 2 of us on this thread who can drive 8+ hours with the propane valve turned off, a cold beer in the fridge, and a full battery when we arrive.
Not trying to be the @$$hole here, but I think you are assuming a lot of things. Not everyone is an engineer. Not everyone knows what an inverter is, much less how to install one. Maybe they would rather use 2 cents of propane instead of paying someone $120/hr to install an inverter. (I mean, the OP doesn't even know how to run his fridge on gas mode. Not saying they are stupid, just saying some people don't know everything.) Do you know how propane RV fridges work? They use the gas equivalent of a pilot light. In fact, they use more DC power when in "gas mode" than gas. I think you are also assuming that everyone's truck has 30 amps at the trailer connector. As a 12V automotive specialist, I seriously doubt anyone does, but if you say you do, then I'm not calling you a liar. I can tell you for a fact that my truck doesn't. I can also tell you that my TT is wired in such a way that the trailer connector doesn't even charge the RV battery. It's for towing lights only. I may be wrong and if I am, then I sincerely apologize, but it seems like you are on here just calling people out. What's the harm in letting people do things the way they want to do things without judgement?
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:17 PM   #22
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Us Engineers don't want to spend money on propane when you dont need to. I don't know what kind of vehicle you have, but I have a 30 A circuit to the trailer on my 2018 GMC Sierra. That is A LOT of power. Trickle charging is 3 A. 30 Amps of DC is 3 Amps @ 120 VAC. My refrigerator pulls 2.5 A. Plenty of power from truck.
Ah, forgot conversion loss on your Inverter. They are maybe 80% efficient depending on brand.
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:19 PM   #23
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Not trying to be the @$$hole here, but I think you are assuming a lot of things. Not everyone is an engineer. Not everyone knows what an inverter is, much less how to install one. Maybe they would rather use 2 cents of propane instead of paying someone $120/hr to install an inverter. (I mean, the OP doesn't even know how to run his fridge on gas mode. Not saying they are stupid, just saying some people don't know everything.) Do you know how propane RV fridges work? They use the gas equivalent of a pilot light. In fact, they use more DC power when in "gas mode" than gas. I think you are also assuming that everyone's truck has 30 amps at the trailer connector. As a 12V automotive specialist, I seriously doubt anyone does, but if you say you do, then I'm not calling you a liar. I can tell you for a fact that my truck doesn't. I can also tell you that my TT is wired in such a way that the trailer connector doesn't even charge the RV battery. It's for towing lights only. I may be wrong and if I am, then I sincerely apologize, but it seems like you are on here just calling people out. What's the harm in letting people do things the way they want to do things without judgement?

Good Post

Owned 2 F 150's, there is a relay and fuse required to activate charging on the factory trailer receptacle on the truck. My 2 F150's where 20 amps.
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:21 PM   #24
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Propane is much more efficient and cools better than electric. If it is hot and temps are rising I always have switched to propane for any fridge in any RV I have owned since 1982.

OP,

Use propane and travel away. Except in Tunnels or while filling the truck if close with the trailer to the gas pumps. Follow safe distance as you would with a smoke or open flame.
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:40 PM   #25
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Propane is much more efficient and cools better than electric. If it is hot and temps are rising I always have switched to propane for any fridge in any RV I have owned since 1982.
I have had the same experience with various RV fridges over the years.

Also, my truck's connector outputs power, but my TT is just wired weird. That's not the only weird wiring issue either!
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:58 PM   #26
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Just to clarify, I mean 30 Amps of DC, yes, Direct Current, not AC Alternating Current, there is a HUGE difference. There is no way you would get 30 A @ 120 VAC out of your truck, anybody knows that. My truck provides 30 Amps @ 12 VDC and I verified by plugging my inverter directly into my 7 pin battery leads and ran a 3 A @ 120 VAC appliance no problems. Again to clarify, 30 A @ 12 VDC = 3 A @ 120 VAC, plenty of power to power your fridge on the go and no need to pull into a rest area to shut your propane off before you pull into a gas station and blow the place up. How inconvenient, I can't imagine why anybody would want to travel with propane on or even worry about an open flame burning while driving, yikes! Not trying to tell you what to do, just asking you not to pull in next to me while I'm filling up please.
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:26 PM   #27
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Powering Refrigerator while towing

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Originally Posted by Keith3679 View Post
Just to clarify, I mean 30 Amps of DC, yes, Direct Current, not AC Alternating Current, there is a HUGE difference. There is no way you would get 30 A @ 120 VAC out of your truck, anybody knows that. My truck provides 30 Amps @ 12 VDC and I verified by plugging my inverter directly into my 7 pin battery leads and ran a 3 A @ 120 VAC appliance no problems. Again to clarify, 30 A @ 12 VDC = 3 A @ 120 VAC, plenty of power to power your fridge on the go and no need to pull into a rest area to shut your propane off before you pull into a gas station and blow the place up. How inconvenient, I can't imagine why anybody would want to travel with propane on or even worry about an open flame burning while driving, yikes! Not trying to tell you what to do, just asking you not to pull in next to me while I'm filling up please.


Unles you did that test with the trailer battery bypassed you proved nothing about what your truck can supply. Similarly, if you didnít bypass the battery and didnít check for voltage drop at the battery from the inverter load then you proved nothing about what your truck can supply.

As an engineer you should know that you need to check all the variables. When you make assumptions while being a self-proclaimed engineer then youíre not being a very good or thorough engineer.

If you turn on your fridge and disconnect the pigtail from the truck are you going to claim the power is being transmitted wirelessly from the truck? Of course not. You have another power source in the circuit.


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Old 06-27-2018, 03:43 PM   #28
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Nice try Diesel, but nothing but 7 pin pigtail and inverter, no trailer.
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:54 PM   #29
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Nice try Diesel, but nothing but 7 pin pigtail and inverter, no trailer.
My bad, read your post on mobile and missed where you said you plugged directly into the 7-pin. Glad your truck does what you want, but that isn't the case for everyone as was mentioned above by Ale_Brewer.

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plenty of power to power your fridge on the go and no need to pull into a rest area to shut your propane off before you pull into a gas station and blow the place up.
Dramatic much? How many times has that actually happened? Not saying it's not possible, I'm just asking how many times you've actually heard of this happening that wasn't from "a friend of a friend."

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How inconvenient, I can't imagine why anybody would want to travel with propane on or even worry about an open flame burning while driving, yikes!
Yikes is right, oh the drama! Open flame? No, there is no open flame with the fridge. Try again?
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:17 PM   #30
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No open flame? So you've never taken the grill off behind the fridge nor seen the flame glow from the exterior of the camper while the fridge is running on propane? Ok, I've heard enough!
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