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Old 09-15-2016, 08:24 AM   #41
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I think for me, it will be easy to remember to disconnect the battery when storing and re-connect when retrieving from storage. That way I can be assured the break-away brakes will work, I can run the fridge (on propane) when towing and my TV can be trickle charging the battery during towing.


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Old 09-15-2016, 08:28 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post

Exactly! I always install the cutoff on the negative side as I want EVERYTHING off, plus it is just easier. But I understand a lot of folks over think stuff
I can only guess why the factory cut-off doesn't cut off everything. The CO monitor, break-away, and slide I get, the tongue jack out of laziness / ease of install. If you can remember to plug in the 7 pin, attach the chains; surely you can remember to turn the batteries back on. They try to make everything "safe" essentially idiot proof (not a put-down) so a battery cut off is half done. The original main breaker was 120A auto reset, fed by a #2 gauge cable to a single battery. If you have 120 amps flowing (just under the breaker rating) that #2 will get hot enough that it could start a fire, IMO.

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Old 09-15-2016, 08:30 AM   #43
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Your TT has a power jack too. What are you talking about?

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Old 09-15-2016, 09:05 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
I can only guess why the factory cut-off doesn't cut off everything.
Can you say "liability"?

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Old 09-16-2016, 06:34 AM   #45
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I think some of it may be location of the switch. My last switch was the push/pull type and was mounted inside by the converter. All of the outside switches still worked. My new one is the key type right next to the batteries. This one kills everything except maybe the brakes...haven't actually looked to see yet.
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Old 09-16-2016, 07:27 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Chuck Sr View Post
Recent perplexing experience with new 2017 FR Vibe brought me new insight on battery drains.

I always follow the manufacturer's guideline of turning off all loads and turning off the Main breaker prior to disconnecting shore power. I have also installed a battery isolation switch to prevent battery drain as I had experienced in my previous RV.

When I went to get my RV out of thr storage area to prep it for a trip on Monday, both batteries were dead! Even hooking up my truck to the electrical tow connection did not provide enough power to move the tongue jack. When my brother-in-law gave me a jump on the trailer battery, which was dead, he swa a spark when he attached the cables to his vehicle. This indicated a load somewhere. After getting a jump to the battery on the RV to use the jack, I got the RV home, and required another jump to jack the trailer off of the hitch. Troubleshooting did not reveal anything.

Today I was looking in the cabinet where the switch for the onboard tv antenna is located and saw that it was on. I turned off the Main power breaker, and the light remained on. This could have been the load that drained my batteries. I am not sure if it contributed, but the on/off switch at the water heater was also left in the on position.

Check these items. They may seem minor, but these vampires will kill your batteries!
A couple things to note...
The TV amplifier (switch for onbard tv antenna) runs off 12v so throwing the Main power breaker (as you called it) wouldn't have any affect on the 12v amplifier. Now, if the battery isolation switch you referred to earlier was thrown, that should kill the amplifier power.

Also, the switch at the water heater controls only the 110v side of things.
It would have no affect on your battery.(ies) Throwing the main power breaker would superseded needing to turn it off.

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battery, drain

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