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Old 08-12-2017, 12:54 AM   #1
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Water Pressure Regulator

Question regarding the need for a water pressure regulator, is this a must have or can you just connect the water hose directly to your rig? Any feedback on this,

Thanks
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:11 AM   #2
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Not really necessary. We usually use a 55psi high flow rate regulator, but not always. We have several friends that never use a regulator. The pex and associated fittings take more pressure than most parks put out.
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:24 AM   #3
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I've been at a few parks in my time with crazy high pressure. Like most types of insurances- you don't need it until you need it.

For me, I feel better knowing I have a quality water pressure regulator protecting my camper.

I bought a Watts from www.rvwaterfilterstore.com.
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:56 AM   #4
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Its better to have one than not just in case you go to a place that has high water pressure. You can get them for next to nothing from Amazon or local rv center like camping world. You don't need one with a Gage or a dial
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:52 AM   #5
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if you are going to get one, spend the $40 to $50 to get one with a gauge and adjustable. I had a cheap one and it is nice to be able to adjust the pressure and see what the pressure is. Just my opinion.
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:06 AM   #6
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I recently purchased one of the $45 regulators which stated it was factory set at 45 psi. It was actually set to about 30 psi. What do most of you set the pressure at?
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florabama View Post
I recently purchased one of the $45 regulators which stated it was factory set at 45 psi. It was actually set to about 30 psi. What do most of you set the pressure at?
55psi
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:17 AM   #8
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Some parks will warn you to use a regulator as their water pressure can exceed 100 PSI. at each site.

Just like the water system that feeds my house, the "Main" pressure is around 100-110 psi and it's regulated to ~50 psi at the house. If the utility regulated the pressure to 50 psi then larger 'mains' would be required or the houses at the end of the line would merely have a trickle coming out of their faucets when everyone else was waking up and taking showers.

It wouldn't hurt to install a regulator permanently. If the pressure is lower than set pressure it merely passes through. When higher it's limited to set pressure. Then there are no worries regardless of "Park Pressure".
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:47 AM   #9
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I have ALWAYS had a screw on gauge to check water pressures. I like to know.

In 40+ years, I've been to TWO campgrounds where the water pressure has been crazy high. We were warned if we didn't have a regulator they would 'loan' us one for a deposit.

I've been to 15-20 parks where the pressure was high but I still felt I needed a regulator. And HUNDREDS of places where one wasn't necessary. (<50 P.S.I.)

You are not going to know if you need a regulator unless you either have a gauge to check it or someone tells you. Alternatively, you could simply screw a regulator on every time.

I like to know before hand, especially if the pressure is relatively low and then I don't add the regulator in the mix to additionally restrict flow. (they all do to a certain degree)

With that said, if you are going to have a gauge, you may as well have a regulator.

My 2¢. YMMV.
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Old 01-24-2023, 04:30 PM   #10
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I'm also wondering about this, just got a Sabre 37FLL and the guy that did our walkthrough took us through their parts department and basically kept throwing stuff on the counter saying you need this, and you need that, until I put my hand up and stopped him, (I found almost everything he sold us for half the price on Amazon later).

He had me buy a simple un-gauged water regulator set at 15PSA and said I need that for sure, I emailed Forest River to ask what is the proper water pressure (with the 15PSI the water runs so slow I can Pee faster) they were no help at all.

From what I'm reading here it can handle up to about 50PSI??
Can anyone confirm this?
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Old 01-24-2023, 04:47 PM   #11
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I have a regulator with a pressure gauge on it. I ALWAYS connect it to the water source.
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Old 01-24-2023, 05:54 PM   #12
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I opted to buy one...

but not from dealer


seached online for best deals on the stuff I needed
water hose filters levelers sewer hoses
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Old 01-24-2023, 06:09 PM   #13
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Since you ask

Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderingWongs View Post
I'm also wondering about this, just got a Sabre 37FLL and the guy that did our walkthrough took us through their parts department and basically kept throwing stuff on the counter saying you need this, and you need that, until I put my hand up and stopped him, (I found almost everything he sold us for half the price on Amazon later).

He had me buy a simple un-gauged water regulator set at 15PSA and said I need that for sure, I emailed Forest River to ask what is the proper water pressure (with the 15PSI the water runs so slow I can Pee faster) they were no help at all.

From what I'm reading here it can handle up to about 50PSI??
Can anyone confirm this?
Follow my reasoning here.
  • The over-pressure valve on the water heater starts weeping at a little less than 150 psi. (Yes, one-hundred-and-fifty psi.)
  • The pressure there is the same as the pressure throughout all the plumbing in the RV.
  • If you fill the water heater with cold water and turn it on, you will see a little weeping from the over-pressure valve, but nowhere else.
  • Therefore the plumbing is good for 150 psi.
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Old 01-24-2023, 06:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderingWongs View Post
I'm also wondering about this, just got a Sabre 37FLL and the guy that did our walkthrough took us through their parts department and basically kept throwing stuff on the counter saying you need this, and you need that, until I put my hand up and stopped him, (I found almost everything he sold us for half the price on Amazon later).

He had me buy a simple un-gauged water regulator set at 15PSA and said I need that for sure, I emailed Forest River to ask what is the proper water pressure (with the 15PSI the water runs so slow I can Pee faster) they were no help at all.

From what I'm reading here it can handle up to about 50PSI??
Can anyone confirm this?
15 psi is stupid. Your water pump is set for 45 to 50 PSI! Spend the few $ extra and get the pressure guage with the adjustable regulator and set it for 50-55 PSI:
Click image for larger version

Name:	capture3b.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	124.8 KB
ID:	283326

That way when you get a trickle of water from your shower and faucets, you can look at the gauge and determine if it is the campground water supply that is the problem, or something after the regulator.
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Old 01-24-2023, 06:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR View Post
15 psi is stupid. Your water pump is set for 45 to 50 PSI! Spend the few $ extra and get the pressure guage with the adjustable regulator and set it for 50-55 PSI:
Attachment 283326

That way when you get a trickle of water from your shower and faucets, you can look at the gauge and determine if it is the campground water supply that is the problem, or something after the regulator.
X2
I have one of these set to 55.
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Old 01-24-2023, 06:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Follow my reasoning here.
  • The over-pressure valve on the water heater starts weeping at a little less than 150 psi. (Yes, one-hundred-and-fifty psi.)
  • The pressure there is the same as the pressure throughout all the plumbing in the RV.
  • If you fill the water heater with cold water and turn it on, you will see a little weeping from the over-pressure valve, but nowhere else.
  • Therefore the plumbing is good for 150 psi.
X2 what Larry suggests here.

I did a study charting the pressure rise when the air pocket in the water heater became depleted and regularly seen plumbing system pressures OVER 100 PSI and as suggested, approaching 150 PSI.

Buy an adjustable water pressure regulator and set it for 50-55 PSI, your plumbing system will easily handle it along as you have no cracked or mis-crimped fittings.

The pre-set regulators are not reliable and particularly susceptible to a grain of dirt/debris. You really should be using a quality water filter at the spigot anyway.

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Old 01-24-2023, 09:06 PM   #17
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We always use a regulator and set to 50-55 as others have recommended. Seems fine for all our needs.

I figure all it would take would be one fitting leak to make me regret not having a regulator; cheap insurance, in my book.

We keep ours permanently attached to the feed port, and with a quick-disconnect for the hose.
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Old 01-24-2023, 09:31 PM   #18
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I always use a regulator. Some places I've been have really high pressure. To verify pressure I have a gauge that screws to a hose bib, but most of the time I trust the regulator.
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Old 01-24-2023, 10:25 PM   #19
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Was in a park with high water pressure a few years back. I *always* use a regulator, except I forgot that my black tank flush hose didn’t have one. when I used the black flush, the pressure from the city water blew the check valve of the black flush. I ended up having to dissassemble part of the pantry and drawer support to get to the valve and replace it. At $80 a crack and 2+ hours of work to replace the check valve, I now have 2 regulators, one on the city water inlet, the other on the black tank flush.
Just my 2 cents. Better be safe than sorry.
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Old 01-25-2023, 08:30 AM   #20
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I have mine set around 30-35. Good flow at the sinks and the Oxygenics shower head. I know the pump is higher psi but it almost is too high for my kitchen sink due to splatters.

I may be over thinking but I figure the less pressure on the lines over time yet having good flow is better. I even turn the pump off when done using water and even open a faucet for a couple of second or two to take pressure off.

I did find out that just disconnecting the hose during a freeze and leaving the the gauge out in the elements is no good for it. Bought a liquid filled gauge as a replacement.

I am in the habit of shutting off water to the camper whenever I leave also. Usually just at the inline shut off I have installed.
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