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Old 06-12-2016, 02:59 PM   #1
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Ac not keeping up on 2017 381RBOK

curious if anyone has tips or similar issues with this camper keeping up cooling on hot days. I have had the ac running through the night and it got down to the set temp. However, by 11am and 90 degrees and the temp is rising inside. It's now 79 inside while the thermostat is set to 70 and is on hi fan. The second ac I have set as low as 65 to try to keep it running, but with both running it still does keep up. I also have the upgraded insulation so would have assumed that would have helped on these hot days. It really doesn't seem like the main ac unit is putting off much air. Any ideas?
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Old 06-12-2016, 03:12 PM   #2
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Check you return ducts for collapsing assuming you have the whisper quiet A/C system. Some have found them near collapsed and have installed PVC tubing in the duct to hold it open.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:06 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
Check you return ducts for collapsing assuming you have the whisper quiet A/C system. Some have found them near collapsed and have installed PVC tubing in the duct to hold it open.
Explain more please. Mine is in the shop right now for this EXACT problem! 91 exterior temps and the main cabin (kitch/living and bunk room) wouldn't get below 77. The master bedroom would get to 65 without an issue! I even tried closing the master bedroom main duct so it would push through the rest of the vents to no avail. The main a/c seems to blow cold but not enough air pressure to blow out of the vents. It is "supposedly" fixed but they haven't told me what the problem is yet and they are going to have to replace the roof thanks to a local tree, so I won't get it back for a couple of weeks yet.
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:26 AM   #4
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Like I mentioned ... assuming you have the new quiet cool A/C (there is no large grill in the middle of the ceiling now, but 4 return air registers at the outer edge of the ceiling) ... Take the grills off the return ducts and look inside them ... if they are mashed down or collapsed in the short run back to the A/C unit, put short lengths of PVC pipe inside them to open them back up. The PVC is hollow as not to further block the airflow. I've seen a few mashed down so far that the A/C simply can't draw enough air to blow much air.
That being said .. in an RV's main living area on a hot day if you can sustain a 20 degree temp differential with the outside air ... you're doing good.
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:37 AM   #5
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Thanks diesel. I will check that. I thought i had previously but will look again. I have only 2 return ducts that I can see in the main cabin area. I don't see any returns in the bunkhouse.

Chop, I would be interested to hear what your dealer says the issue was if the "fixed" it. I'm hoping to do it myself since I don't have a tow vehicle (I can borrow one if absolutely needed) and my camper is at our year-round spot..
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:10 AM   #6
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The return ducts are short runs ... usually two towards the rear of the RV and two in the forward bedroom. There is also a baffle inbetween the return and supply ducts right under the A/C unit itself. If it has slipped down, it lessens the efficiency as well. This may not be your issue, but it's a starting point. Just for conversation ... Dometic had a bad batch of A/C's last year with low freon charges.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:40 AM   #7
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I assume the only way to check that baffle is to remove the ac unit? And removing the ac unit requires peeling up the dicor, etc? I'm pretty sure I only have returns in the main living area. Mine is a bunkhouse and I don't recall any returns being in there..

Again, thanks for the ideas! I will look into the dometic issue too although my unit was built in March so I would hope they would have resolved that by now..
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:51 AM   #8
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It's easier than you think. The A/C on late model units with the whisper quiet design is just lagged to the roof ... you don't peel back anything. Remove the screws holding the bonnet on and you'll see 4 lag screws in the pan going into the roof. (pay attention to how far the gasket is compressed) Remove them and slightly tilt the unit to one side (you don't have to entirely remove it.) It's not like the older A/C's that had the long bolts you had to remove from the inside. Anyways, you'll see the two ducts runing parallel to one another with a baffle inbetween. if it has slipped down ... secure it back up. When you replace the A/C , only tighten the lag screws down enough to compress the gasket @1/2 of free standing thinckness.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:55 AM   #9
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If you have the blizzard nxt with the return vents on each side of the RV then the fix is to install 2 more return vents closer to the middle of the RV where the AC is. They have found that it is not getting enough return air flow. They just started putting these AC in last October so didn't realize there was a problem until everyone started using there AC this summer. Also they are going to start using closable vents in the front bedroom and bathroom to make the front AC help out more.
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:49 AM   #10
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Inspectorgf ... I agree and disagree. The quiet cool system with the separate return grills have been out for 2-3 model years now (if we are talking about the same system). If you make sure the existing short runs of return ducts are not collapsed, it has ample air flow to the unit. The ducts are only about 4' long. Adding a couple of more vents closer to the roof unit would help, but will compromise the advertised low noise quiet cool system as the added vents will be closer to the roof unit equating to more compressor noise.
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