Add water to Fresh Water Tank (Boondocking)

[371REBH_SandPiper-2016]

[sorry, I know I've seen this answered here before but I can't find the answer]

Goal:
Inload water from 7gal blue to jug to Fresh Water Tank

Pieces of the puzzle:
Winterization line
Hot water ByPass
Inlet/Tank line
Water pump on/off

Can anyone tell me the correct sequence/position of the valves such that I can inload water from a jug to the FW tank via the winterization line ?

Thanks!

[371REBH_SandPiper-2016]

Originally Posted by 371REBH_SandPiper-2016

[sorry, I know I've seen this answered here before but I can't find the answer]

Goal:
Inload water from 7gal blue to jug to Fresh Water Tank

Pieces of the puzzle:
Winterization line
Hot water ByPass
Inlet/Tank line
Water pump on/off

Can anyone tell me the correct sequence/position of the valves such that I can inload water from a jug to the FW tank via the winterization line ?

Thanks!

-not my exact unit image, but Docking Bay is the same

[Doorguy]

Originally Posted by 371REBH_SandPiper-2016

[sorry, I know I've seen this answered here before but I can't find the answer]

Goal:
Inload water from 7gal blue to jug to Fresh Water Tank

Pieces of the puzzle:
Winterization line
Hot water ByPass
Inlet/Tank line
Water pump on/off

Can anyone tell me the correct sequence/position of the valves such that I can inload water from a jug to the FW tank via the winterization line ?
Thanks!

The winterization line does not go to the fresh water tank. I bought a cheap pump and pump it in through the fresh water fill fitting.

[chop249]

Originally Posted by 371REBH_SandPiper-2016

[sorry, I know I've seen this answered here before but I can't find the answer]

Goal:
Inload water from 7gal blue to jug to Fresh Water Tank

Pieces of the puzzle:
Winterization line
Hot water ByPass
Inlet/Tank line
Water pump on/off

Can anyone tell me the correct sequence/position of the valves such that I can inload water from a jug to the FW tank via the winterization line ?

Thanks!

Just answered your PM. I hope that helps......

[RussPastuch]

Doorguy

I picked up one of the hard 5 gallon plastic containers and a 12 volt bilge pump. An hour with drill, saw and glue, and I can lay the container on it's side, stick the hose in the tank, apply 12 VDC, and wait for it to drain in 15 seconds.

[donkro]

RussPatuch, can you post a pic of your creation?

[jimmoore13]

If you are strong enough to lift the jug and hold it even with the height of the fresh-water fill, and if you have "Reliance" brand jugs, I made an adapter that makes transferring water from the jug to the tank quick and easy.

The cap on the Reliance brand jug has a standard 1/2" female pipe fitting. This enables you to swap the jug spigot from travel to use modes. I carry 4 spare jugs. I bought several spare caps.
I adapted a spare cap as follows (all from hardware store):
1) 1/2" male to "barb" plastic fitting;
2) hose clamp;
3) approximately 15" of clear plastic hose that fits the barb.

Assemble hose to barb with hose clamp. Insert 1/2" pipe thread fitting into cap...not too tightly, because cap may crack.
Sanitize.

To fill...Remove jug cap and set aside. Install cap/hose adapter. Tighten the cap to the jug firmly...that's where a leak might happen. The pipe thread fitting on hose adapter can turn a bit left or right without leaking to align the hose with the filler pipe. I did not use Teflon tape or pipe dope on the joint. It's not under pressure, so a tiny bit of oozing around the threads is about as bad as it will get.

If you are right handed, pick jug with left hand and guide hose into filler on trailer side with your right hand. The clear hose is very flexible and it will tuck in nicely and stay put as you continue lifting. Now use both hands to lift jug to pour water. If you are right handed, your stronger, more dexterous arm/hand can manipulate and tilt the jug...changing positions as the jug empties. Lefties, reverse the hand positions.

It's nice to use a cooler or other object as a step to put one foot on so you can rest the jug on your knee while it's full. 7 gallons of water weighs about 60 pounds. As the jug empties, it's easier to lift and dump.

I can pour a jug of water into my tank in about 60 to 90 seconds. There is no spillage as there would be with a funnel or a stiff pour spout. If you drill out the hole in the air cap, water will flow faster, but don't over-tilt the jug, because water will come out of the air hole.

I keep my hose adapter in a clean plastic bag so it never gets dirty. I've used this arrangement for 4 summers, and it's been a very simple, reliable and quick way to add water to the fresh tank as needed.

[CNYCamper]

371REBH: Here's what I think you are trying to do with those parts. 1) fill the jug with water. 2) run a hose into the jug with the other end attached to the antifreeze port. 3)set the antifreeze port to winterization mode (so water will NOT run into the FW tank. 4) run your outside shower line into the FW fill port. 5) turn on water pump. 6) turn on the outside shower - water will flow from the jug into the FW tank.

[mmcbride56]

Originally Posted by CNYCamper

371REBH: Here's what I think you are trying to do with those parts. 1) fill the jug with water. 2) run a hose into the jug with the other end attached to the antifreeze port. 3)set the antifreeze port to winterization mode (so water will NOT run into the FW tank. 4) run your outside shower line into the FW fill port. 5) turn on water pump. 6) turn on the outside shower - water will flow from the jug into the FW tank.

Huh, ok, so, I get how this works as long as you have a gravity feed FW fill port. Unfortunately, the new MHs (like my 2017 Sportscoach) has a FW fill port that you thread your water hose into the exact same way that you attach a hose to the city water port. The old gravity feed port is gone completely.

So, what now?

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by mmcbride56

Huh, ok, so, I get how this works as long as you have a gravity feed FW fill port. Unfortunately, the new MHs (like my 2017 Sportscoach) has a FW fill port that you thread your water hose into the exact same way that you attach a hose to the city water port. The old gravity feed port is gone completely.

So, what now?

My solution would work for you:



Where the diagram says "gravity fill", I use a hose with no connector inserted into the gravity fill port. Use a hose with a connector for your pressure fill instead.

[pmsherman]

I've had to do this a couple of times in my Georgetown. I bought a hose adapter that replaces the aerator on a faucet and used that to run a hose from the faucet to the fresh water fill port. Set the system to winterize, open the faucet, turn on the water pump and water will be sucked from the jug through the system, out the faucet, into the hose then the fresh tank fill port.

This is easier to do if you have an outside shower because you can use that instead of the inside faucet.

If you have access to the plumbing lines around the pump, hopefully located near the fresh water tank, a more permanent solution is to install a transfer tube from the pump output to the fill line for the fresh tank. An alternative would be to install a diverting valve in the line from fresh tank to the pump and run that to the pump output line. For either of these, opening a valve will take the output of the pump, set to winterize, and push it directly into the fresh tank.

Phil

[CNYCamper]

Originally Posted by mmcbride56

Huh, ok, so, I get how this works as long as you have a gravity feed FW fill port. Unfortunately, the new MHs (like my 2017 Sportscoach) has a FW fill port that you thread your water hose into the exact same way that you attach a hose to the city water port. The old gravity feed port is gone completely.

So, what now?

The method I described uses the system water pump, not gravity. If your FW fill port is threaded I would add a threaded end to the outside shower.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by mmcbride56

Huh, ok, so, I get how this works as long as you have a gravity feed FW fill port. Unfortunately, the new MHs (like my 2017 Sportscoach) has a FW fill port that you thread your water hose into the exact same way that you attach a hose to the city water port. The old gravity feed port is gone completely.

So, what now?

???
Guessing at this point, but if the hose fitting is above the FW tank, then it may be safe to assume the input is still capable of gravity feed. The FW tank is not a pressure tank, so one assumes that, if you are filling with a hose, at some point, an overflow will be the telltale that your tank is full.

Of course, if the hose fitting is at or near the tank level, there would need to be a check valve in the fill line to prevent the water from just running back out the hose fitting, but it would not gravity feed well. Even so, if you hold the jug above the hose fitting, gravity should do the job.

If you adapt your "jug" with a short section of 1/2" garden hose with a (male?) garden hose fitting on the end of the hose (rather than the clear plastic hose), can't you still just pour water into the tank?

This is not the elegant solution offered by others, but it might be good to know if that turns out to be your only option at some point.
Again...just guessing, but inquiring minds and all that.

[jimmoore13]

P.S. Given that your motor home probably has a huge FW tank, it will take a lot of 7 gallon jugs to fill it very much.

[TitanMike]

My question about adding water is not the how to do it, I've got a few ways for that.
One is a Shurflo water pump with standard hose on one end (with threaded male fitting) and a suction hose on inlet. Just put the "Jug" on the ground and pump it in as if you were at a faucet. Just be sure to store the hoses for this in a sanitary place (like in a 2.5 gallon Zip-Lock bag) so the water isn't contaminated.

Question is "what do you do with the water you've used. At some point the water in the tank will end up in one of the two holding tanks. Keep adding fresh and you run out of places to put it, as well as a lot of extra weight.

Anyone??

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

My question about adding water is not the how to do it, I've got a few ways for that.
One is a Shurflo water pump with standard hose on one end (with threaded male fitting) and a suction hose on inlet. Just put the "Jug" on the ground and pump it in as if you were at a faucet. Just be sure to store the hoses for this in a sanitary place (like in a 2.5 gallon Zip-Lock bag) so the water isn't contaminated.

Question is "what do you do with the water you've used. At some point the water in the tank will end up in one of the two holding tanks. Keep adding fresh and you run out of places to put it, as well as a lot of extra weight.

Anyone??

Gray water is one thing, and black is another.
Black water needs a dump station...or similar. If you're in an RV park, one of these might work - https://smile.amazon.com/Barker-1110...ack+tank+caddy - but we're talking boondocking. An option might be a macerator pump - FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit - Xylem 18555000A - Drain & Flush Systems - Camping World - and one or more of the caddy's in your truck bed, but I'd sooner go with a mobile service...if you can get it to come to your site: RV & Boat Waste Removal | Johnny on the Spot

Gray water is a subject of some debate, but far easier. First, I'm going to get hammered by some "purists," but here goes.

Since the subject is "boondocking", it depends.

First, every tent camper dumps gray water on the ground. Ever watch tent campers do dishes? The water normally ends up about 15 to 20 feet from the site. Now, unless there are pit toilets nearby, where, exactly, do these tenters go to the bathroom? Yes, just like bears, they....
Now that we have that out of the way, here's an option for gray water if you're truly boondocking...out in the woods and away from others.

Gray water is NOT toxic. The soaps (surfactants) in the water can be beneficial to soils. Use of surfactants for the remediation of contaminated soils: A review - ScienceDirect
The "contaminants" are tiny bits of food waste that will be consumed by bugs, etc. in no time. Coffee grounds are not toxic! Nor is cooking oil. Use a paper towel and wipe all the food waste off your pots/pans/dishes/utensils before washing, and all that crud will be in the garbage...not the gray water.

Do you pee in the shower? Well, don't. But if you must...ever pee in the woods? Does your dog pee in the woods? So, given enough space and a 5 gallon bucket, in most cases, gray water is little different than the gray water used to water golf courses and public parks. Spread it around and water the trees.

Exceptions? Sure...lots of 'em. Don't do this is a swamp or area with non-permeable soils. This is a bad idea in the Everglades or Louisiana Bayou. Don't do it close to neighbors - remember you're supposed to be boondocking...not in and RV park. Don't do it close to a stream--or lake--or fountain--or geyser. But a little common sense turns gray water into an asset to the forest...not a toxic waste product. And, NO, I am not encouraging anyone to dump 40 gallons of gray water onto the ground in an established boondocking campsite. Remember the 5 gallon pail? It has a handle. Use it.

Are you kinda-sorta of boondocking in a state or national park campground? First, that's not really boondocking, but aside from that, dump gray water into your handy-dandy 5 gallon bucket and pour it into the pit toilet. (NO, DO NOT DUMP IT NEAR THE HAND-PUMP WELL...that's NOT what I said!) This is not just acceptable, it's encouraged...or demanded in some cases.

As for weight, dump your fresh water and you'll be carrying a reasonable amount of black water and however much gray water you don't deal with on site...well within the RV's GVWR.

I'm sorry to be so flip about this, but I've never made these suggestions without getting my ass handed to me. Boondocking is boondocking...out in the wilderness with good spacing between campers, lots of space to spread the gray water around to frequently thirsty vegetation, and your gray water is one of the least contaminating things around...as evidenced by tissue scraps here, there and everywhere from the tent campers who have no place else to go...and often don't venture very far from the tent site at that! Campgrounds are another matter...whether primitive (pit toilets only) or lavish. Gray water can always be dumped in the toilet.

[18CrewDually]

I agree with Jimmoore13 above. I have even been at campgrounds that advised to let the gray tank valve trickle out over night. I've seen homes that leach the washing machine waste water out onto the ground and the township is fine with it.
Jimmoore13, thank-you for the post (and the necessary bravery)😉

[jeffrapp]

I bought a back-up 12 volt pump that is the same as the one for the MH. That way I have a spare.
I mounted the pump on a board, with a switch and cigarette lighter plug.
I also purchased a large plastic water container with hose fittings (I believe it may be as much as 50 gallons). I can lay it in my car, take it to the water supply, fill it, and drive back to the MH without lifting anything heavy.
Haven't used it so far, no need.

[koller1509]

Close your valve from the tank to the pump like you are going to winterize. Pull winterization tube and put in what ever your are hauling your water in. Take your blue hose and plug it into your faucet on your docking station and screw the other end into the freshwater tank fill and turn on the cold water valve on the faucet. Turn on your water pump and it will pump it straight in the fresh water tank.