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Old 08-19-2016, 07:00 PM   #21
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Here are some more photos and part numbers i used.

I have the ccc2 thermostat and added another zone. So i have 3 zones now.



With both ac running on high fan im pulling 27.6 amps on the one leg and 13.1 on the other.

I feel good about not being overloaded specially since they was all on high fan.

Any questions?


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Old 08-19-2016, 09:23 PM   #22
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The problem is the blizzard 15k is a new style with the return ducts ran width wise of the camper. The return for the 13500 is in the roof. So its different.

I completed the instal today and with all 3 units running and set to 55 the bedroom was 63 the kitchen was 65 and the living room was 64.

It was 92 with alot of humidity but i fee there is enough ac now for a hotter day.




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Holy COW! No you're talking my language. I don't handle the heat well. I go out and work in it, hike and bike in it ok but when it's time to veg and have a beer or 6 I want to be frosty! So to get my head wrapped around this, you removed the rear vent and didn't have to do anything other than run the 12/2 w/gnd to the same breaker that runs the fireplace, then run a thermostat wire to the thermostat and finally cut the vent wall so that it ran into the existing ducting? That about sum it up?
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:28 PM   #23
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Holy COW! No you're talking my language. I don't handle the heat well. I go out and work in it, hike and bike in it ok but when it's time to veg and have a beer or 6 I want to be frosty! So to get my head wrapped around this, you removed the rear vent and didn't have to do anything other than run the 12/2 w/gnd to the same breaker that runs the fireplace, then run a thermostat wire to the thermostat and finally cut the vent wall so that it ran into the existing ducting? That about sum it up?


Thats real close!

But i left the fireplace. I went to lowes hardware and got another HOMT breaker that has 2 20 amp breakers in one.

I took out a single 20 amp for the ac that was there and replaced it with a duel 20 amp and im feeding the new ac from there as well.

I also ran a cat 5 wire from the new ac to the front ac to get to the thermostat.

But that is all. The only other cutting was the vent 2x4 or whatever it was to get access to the duct work. I then taped it out to the ac hole as seen in the photo here.




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Old 08-19-2016, 11:14 PM   #24
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My only hold up on doing this is wondering whether or not just replacing that 15K unit with another one would fix the issue. I would have almost liked to have seen you drop the new one where the existing unit was before installing it in back.
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:17 PM   #25
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Nice job though if they can't get me sorted out I may wind up doing the same thing. How long was the cat 5 you had to get and do you have pictures or a write up on where you connected it etc.? You used the existing black dometic thermostat correct?
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:37 AM   #26
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My only hold up on doing this is wondering whether or not just replacing that 15K unit with another one would fix the issue. I would have almost liked to have seen you drop the new one where the existing unit was before installing it in back.


Yea you cant do that. The orginal 15k has a different supply and return system on it. Without alot of modification it wouldnt have been easy.




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Old 08-20-2016, 08:39 AM   #27
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Nice job though if they can't get me sorted out I may wind up doing the same thing. How long was the cat 5 you had to get and do you have pictures or a write up on where you connected it etc.? You used the existing black dometic thermostat correct?


Sure ill help out. I just had some left over cat 5 off some ip camera installs that i did. It was 60 feet or so.

I wired it to the rj11 standards but i removed the brown wire pair. Just have to make sure your using a straight thru cable. You dont need 12volts to the new ac just one of them which the factory already has.


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Old 08-20-2016, 11:54 AM   #28
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I'm interested in hearing more about how you fished the wiring from the panel to the back of the RV. Is it all behind the wall / ceiling?


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Old 08-20-2016, 08:06 PM   #29
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I'm interested in hearing more about how you fished the wiring from the panel to the back of the RV. Is it all behind the wall / ceiling?


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To get from the basement to the attic there was a hide away cabinet i took out and went behind in our bedroom. From there i took vents out and lights out and took a fish tape to one light to a vent and to a light or what ever i could do to get there.


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Old 08-20-2016, 10:22 PM   #30
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I think it goves a e1 code because water gets in the connector and corrodes the connections.

You can and should use Dielectric grease in any and all electrical connections. It will keep water out as well as corrosion on contacts.
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Old 08-20-2016, 10:25 PM   #31
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You can and should use Dielectric grease in any and all electrical connections. It will keep water out as well as corrosion on contacts.


Yes i havent fixed mine yet but on my new ac and the other two connectors i coated them with no-ox. So hopefully it wont come a problem.


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Old 08-22-2016, 10:16 AM   #32
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To get from the basement to the attic there was a hide away cabinet i took out and went behind in our bedroom. From there i took vents out and lights out and took a fish tape to one light to a vent and to a light or what ever i could do to get there.


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Thanks. You may have answered (and if so I apologize) but did the unit you bought come with the ceiling assembly?

Hoping to get started on mine after the fall baseball season wraps up. I still don't have electric ran to the shop yet, so it's either dark in there (at night) or too hot when I can get some light (during the day). Hoping the power company gets it done in the next couple of weeks so I will have some lights to knock it out when it isn't so hot.




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Old 08-22-2016, 10:18 AM   #33
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Thanks. You may have answered (and if so I apologize) but did the unit you bought come with the ceiling assembly?

Hoping to get started on mine after the fall baseball season wraps up. I still don't have electric ran to the shop yet, so it's either dark in there (at night) or too hot when I can get some light (during the day). Hoping the power company gets it done in the next couple of weeks so I will have some lights to knock it out when it isn't so hot.




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It didnt come with the ac. It was seperate but i got one bundled price with the upper and lower unit. 660.00 for the 15k with lower unit. The multi zone box was another 95 bucks and the remote thermostat was 16.00.

I bought all my stuff local so i picked it all up with no shipping.


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Old 08-22-2016, 10:20 AM   #34
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Thanks again. Right after posting, I was finally able to answer my own question too (you just confirmed what I found). Most sites lacked some of that info. Dyers site helped clear it up for me.


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Old 08-22-2016, 10:23 AM   #35
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Another question... Since you and I live pretty close. Where did you purchase locally for that price?


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Old 08-22-2016, 10:26 AM   #36
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Another question... Since you and I live pretty close. Where did you purchase locally for that price?


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I bought it all from Campers Paradise in charlotte. They dont have a store front but mostly online sales. You can pick it up there at there dock door.

They also run down to rockhill sc everyday to pickup stuff at dometic. So u get a fresh ac.

Talk to Brady in parts. Idk if the forum will allow phone numbers but if you cant find it pm me.

Btw i bought a black ac but i think the white ones are cheaper.




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Old 08-22-2016, 03:06 PM   #37
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Brad, Why did you run 2 pair of cat5e cables? Was it because of 2 zones? I am running cable this afternoon to my garage in the toy hauler. It will be on a separate thermostat so I need 12v correct? Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-22-2016, 03:11 PM   #38
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Brad, Why did you run 2 pair of cat5e cables? Was it because of 2 zones? I am running cable this afternoon to my garage in the toy hauler. It will be on a separate thermostat so I need 12v correct? Thanks for any help.


Just in case i needed a pull wire for later or anything else i might need. Doubt i will ever use it but i had spare so i pulled two.

Yes you will need a 12 volt circuit if your not adding to the existing.

Its cheaper to use the thermostat if u have the ccc2 now.
You need a remote thermostat sensor and thr multizone box. You can use the ducted lower unit but just keep the vent open. You to u.

If you go that route you dont need anymore 12 volts back there.


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Old 08-22-2016, 03:26 PM   #39
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Brad, Why did you run 2 pair of cat5e cables? Was it because of 2 zones? I am running cable this afternoon to my garage in the toy hauler. It will be on a separate thermostat so I need 12v correct? Thanks for any help.


Remember the ac dont come with any controls with it. Its just the upper unit with a plug no theremostat or anything.


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Old 08-22-2016, 03:27 PM   #40
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Brad. Seeing as how you have just done this and are my "expert". Do you mind checking my part numbers? I have everything in my Amazon cart with free shipping except for the temp sensor.

B59516.XX1J0 - brisk air 2 black, 15 k btu.

3105935.047 - ceiling unit, ducted

3312020.000 - control center.

Total cost for all of these is $774.65 with free shipping. I'm still trying to round of the sensor, but will call campers paradise and try to pick it up Friday on my way home from CLT airport. I drove my little car to the airport so probably won't be able to get the rest and as a result just figured I would order it from Amazon.

Thanks for all of your help so far.


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