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Old 08-18-2016, 05:24 AM   #11
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How are you going to power the 3rd A/C? Each A/C can pull 15 - 17 amps, x 3 = 45 - 51 amps. At best, you've only got 50 amps in your RV.


The rvs with 50 amp service is 240 volts. So you actually have two 50 amp 120 volt services.


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Old 08-18-2016, 05:26 AM   #12
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50 amp service gives you 100 amps at 120 volt.

I would like to add a 3rd ac to my TT, however there is no hole for it. I'm not sure about cutting a hole in my roof. Would like to watch more about this.


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Yes im using a vent hole that was already there. Not sure how you add one when the vents not there. It has to be boxed in to support the weight of the ac without crunching the roof when installed.


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Old 08-18-2016, 08:34 AM   #13
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I've thought about adding a portable floor model to mine. Drill a 6" hole in the wall and your done.
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:07 AM   #14
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I've thought about adding a portable floor model to mine. Drill a 6" hole in the wall and your done.
That would help but not the most efficient setup as these units exhaust the air you are trying to cool, pulling warm air into the unit from any air leaks around vents, holes in floor, etc.
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:42 AM   #15
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Yes im using a vent hole that was already there. Not sure how you add one when the vents not there. It has to be boxed in to support the weight of the ac without crunching the roof when installed.


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Although I'm not ambitious enough to remove my 2nd ac to see how the "framing for 2nd ac" is done, I'm sure I could figure something out.

What I am not clear on yet, is if the roof trusses are somehow different in the ac framing area, or if there literally is just some "add-on" framing that gets installed to the normal truss spacing.

I can frame/fabricate what is needed (I'm fairly sure)... as long as there isn't anything structurally different in the trusses in that area.

Knowing where the trusses are would help too.

I think the idea is very cool, however I don't know how feasible it is.


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Old 08-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #16
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Did the unit you bought come with the ceiling assembly and gasket? Where did you purchase?

Thanks


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Old 08-18-2016, 09:22 PM   #17
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The return vents was there already when i picked up my camper at holmans. Not sure if holmans added them or if forest river did. I couldnt get a straight answer. I added teo more supply vents in the kitchen as well to get some of the front ac down to the living area. No help.
It would be interesting to see what board they are replacing? The wiring i believe is the communication connectors between the thermostat and the roof airs. I think it goves a e1 code because water gets in the connector and corrodes the connections.




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We got ours at Holman too. I like them and none of our problems are their fault. I wish I could have them service our unit but I drove 1000 miles one way to buy from them. It isn't feasible to have them service it. Do you have 3 or 4 return vents? Ours from the factory had 2 and I've seen 2 more added for a total of 4 but the Dometic bulletin only says to add 1 more for a total of 3. I HOPE, HOPE, HOPE that fixes the issue. It really seems as though the unit is cooling the air but it just isn't moving enough of that cool air through the return vents to cool the coach down. When I compare the output of the 15k BTU main cabin output to the 13.5K BTU master bedroom unit the MB unit puts out A LOT more air.
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:24 PM   #18
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We got ours at Holman too. I like them and none of our problems are their fault. I wish I could have them service our unit but I drove 1000 miles one way to buy from them. It isn't feasible to have them service it. Do you have 3 or 4 return vents? Ours from the factory had 2 and I've seen 2 more added for a total of 4 but the Dometic bulletin only says to add 1 more for a total of 3. I HOPE, HOPE, HOPE that fixes the issue. It really seems as though the unit is cooling the air but it just isn't moving enough of that cool air through the return vents to cool the coach down. When I compare the output of the 15k BTU main cabin output to the 13.5K BTU master bedroom unit the MB unit puts out A LOT more air.


Ours came with 5 return vents two on the seach side and one in the middle. Ours also is cooling the air about 20 degrees but there just isnt enough to go around i suppose.

The new blizzard nxt i believe is at fault. The brisk air 2 blows about 7-8 degrees colder air than the blizzard. It will blow 50 degree air all day long with 76-78 air coming into it. Its also stronger as well.

I hope tomorrow i can finish the third ac install. Here is a list and some new pics of the install.




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Old 08-18-2016, 11:00 PM   #19
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Ours came with 5 return vents two on the seach side and one in the middle. Ours also is cooling the air about 20 degrees but there just isnt enough to go around i suppose.

The new blizzard nxt i believe is at fault. The brisk air 2 blows about 7-8 degrees colder air than the blizzard. It will blow 50 degree air all day long with 76-78 air coming into it. Its also stronger as well.

I hope tomorrow i can finish the third ac install. Here is a list and some new pics
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Yes it is like the fan isn't pushing enough CFM to get the could air out of the return ducting and into the cabin. I agree the air is within specs at 16 - 20* cooler than the air coming into the a/c. I double checked ours toady with a laser thermometer. Mine is going in to a different dealer on Sept. 8th for the bulletin (recall) work. I guess we will see at that point. I'm thoroughly tempted to take the 13.5K from the front and put it in the main cabin and the 15K and put it in the Master BR to see if that makes any difference in the CFMs pushed into the ducting...... What do I know though. I'm just the end user...... and I'm
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:56 PM   #20
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Yes it is like the fan isn't pushing enough CFM to get the could air out of the return ducting and into the cabin. I agree the air is within specs at 16 - 20* cooler than the air coming into the a/c. I double checked ours toady with a laser thermometer. Mine is going in to a different dealer on Sept. 8th for the bulletin (recall) work. I guess we will see at that point. I'm thoroughly tempted to take the 13.5K from the front and put it in the main cabin and the 15K and put it in the Master BR to see if that makes any difference in the CFMs pushed into the ducting...... What do I know though. I'm just the end user...... and I'm


The problem is the blizzard 15k is a new style with the return ducts ran width wise of the camper. The return for the 13500 is in the roof. So its different.

I completed the instal today and with all 3 units running and set to 55 the bedroom was 63 the kitchen was 65 and the living room was 64.

It was 92 with alot of humidity but i fee there is enough ac now for a hotter day.




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