Added 3rd A/C to 389rd

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

You'll have more than half of the weight on the camper, as the wheels are at the back of the trailer and all the weight is in front of them. I'm estimating 80-90% of total weight.

The actual swivel part is under the trailer about a 1/4 of the way. So not all the weigh will be on the camper.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by Jayfro04

I'm still super confused on this part and anxious to see how you do it. Any reason why you didn't close off the duct coming from the living room to the bunkhouse, then just have the bunkhouse ac using the duct to the bunkhouse and back bathroom? Also, not seeing the bunkhouse ac unit, I'm curious above it using one that isn't ducted and just dumps the air into the bunkhouse. Not sure that will help the living room/kitchen area though..

Again, very thankful to you guys for documenting your project!

Mine wasnt in a bunkhouse but a rear den.
The duct work makes a big U in the roof. So it goes up one side and crosses over back down the other side. My cross was in the bedroom.
Were just forcing more cold air in the U track and it comes out where ever it has the least resistance.
I did how ever stuff wash clothes in both sides of our ducts heading to the bedroom. That gave me more control of the bedroom tempature and let both ac units in the back of the camper.

Worked great for us.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by chop249

MUST BE NICE! How did you have access to a forklift?

My camper is stored at my father in laws business. Which is across the street from me. About 30 secs worth of lifting is all.

[325BH]

I'm fortunate to have this... when I installed my 3rd ac recently. Makes for easy peasy install!

[head gamez]

Originally Posted by 325BH

I'm fortunate to have this... when I installed my 3rd ac recently. Makes for easy peasy install!

Attachment 136323

Nice!

I thought about using the tractor, but I just have a mid size, and the front end loader wouldn't get it up high enough. The rope from the rafter worked easy enough.

[head gamez]

Well... some progress this morning before heading to the baseball field.....

I took a look at how the inside unit went in and now have a handle on how to cut in the ducts.

I then moved to the roof for what I knew would be my least favorite part.... removing the vent and the dicor. I peeled and scraped most of it off the metal flashing pretty easily. I was then able to easily peel the vent off of the roof. When doing it, take note that there is dicor in and around the screw holes. Use the scraper blade to peel it away from those areas to avoid stretching the roof covering. Here is where I left off at for now.





Question for Brad (or anyone else that has done this...
How did you remove the rest of the dicor? I can get the "chunks" pretty easily, but there is still some that is left behind. How smooth does it need to be for the AC to seal?

More to come as time allows.

Thanks

[325BH]

Originally Posted by head gamez

Well... some progress this morning before heading to the baseball field.....

I took a look at how the inside unit went in and now have a handle on how to cut in the ducts.

I then moved to the roof for what I knew would be my least favorite part.... removing the vent and the dicor. I peeled and scraped most of it off the metal flashing pretty easily. I was then able to easily peel the vent off of the roof. When doing it, take note that there is dicor in and around the screw holes. Use the scraper blade to peel it away from those areas to avoid stretching the roof covering. Here is where I left off at for now.

Attachment 136344

Attachment 136345

Question for Brad (or anyone else that has done this...
How did you remove the rest of the dicor? I can get the "chunks" pretty easily, but there is still some that is left behind. How smooth does it need to be for the AC to seal?

More to come as time allows.

Thanks

Being who I am, I would try to get as much of the dicor off as possible. Obviously try not to cut the roof (tpo?).

In reality though, the gasket under the ac unit is thick and will seal up OK. I'm sure the dealers don't spend too much time on this step when they add an ac unit.

Using something a little coarse (to grab), but not sharp, is probably the easiest way to scrape it off. A small piece of plywood or end of a 2x4 comes to mind. Scrape toward the hole.

[head gamez]

Originally Posted by 325BH

Being who I am, I would try to get as much of the dicor off as possible. Obviously try not to cut the roof (tpo?).

In reality though, the gasket under the ac unit is thick and will seal up OK. I'm sure the dealers don't spend too much time on this step when they add an ac unit.

Thanks. I'm definitely going to get more off than what is shown. It's hot already (especially) up that high in the shop, so I'm done for the day.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by head gamez

Thanks. I'm definitely going to get more off than what is shown. It's hot already (especially) up that high in the shop, so I'm done for the day.

I installed a 3rd ac unit on my rig, however there was no hole. (I had to cut the hole in the roof, frame it and run power.) because of this, I didn't have any dicor to remove.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by head gamez

Thanks. I'm definitely going to get more off than what is shown. It's hot already (especially) up that high in the shop, so I'm done for the day.

I didnt remove any of mine. The ac seal pulled down into the dicor and actually felt like it sealed better.

Totally up to you.

[head gamez]

Originally Posted by brad2388

I didnt remove any of mine. The ac seal pulled down into the dicor and actually felt like it sealed better.

Totally up to you.

Thanks.

Another question as I am thinking ahead to working on it tomorrow and Saturday.

Do you have any tips on how you got the remote sensor wire up the wall and across the ceiling to the AC? I'm thinking it through, and struggling with this one a little bit.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by head gamez

Thanks.

Another question as I am thinking ahead to working on it tomorrow and Saturday.

Do you have any tips on how you got the remote sensor wire up the wall and across the ceiling to the AC? I'm thinking it through, and struggling with this one a little bit.

I only ran Romex for power. Again, I installed an ac unit where there was no provision so I had to do everything.

Things I did to run the Romex:
Removed lights in ceiling, which gave me access above the ceiling. Distance from light to light wasn't very far.
Remove existing ac ceiling assembly. Again, more access to ceiling area.
Removed things mounted on walls which gave me access to the walls voids.
I also ran Romex through my existing ac duct. Some folks disapprove of this, but I see no issue. I used direct-bury for durability.

You get the idea. Temporarily remove things to give you access... then use a fish-tape to run pull-strings, wires, etc.

[head gamez]

Originally Posted by 325BH

I only ran Romex for power. Again, I installed an ac unit where there was no provision so I had to do everything.

Things I did to run the Romex:
Removed lights in ceiling, which gave me access above the ceiling. Distance from light to light wasn't very far.
Remove existing ac ceiling assembly. Again, more access to ceiling area.
Removed things mounted on walls which gave me access to the walls voids.
I also ran Romex through my existing ac duct. Some folks disapprove of this, but I see no issue. I used direct-bury for durability.

You get the idea. Temporarily remove things to give you access... then use a fish-tape to run pull-strings, wires, etc.

Yes sir. I completed that portion. What I am thinking through now is the temp sensor wire. It needs to be mounted on a wall and the wire ran through the wall and to the ceiling. I can't think of a good access point in the bunk room to transition from the wall to the ceiling. Maybe it will be more clear once I walk out there and take a look.

[head gamez]

Picked up the remote temp sensor today from the Out of Doors Mart in Greensboro. They seem to stock more parts than any dealership I've ever been to.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by head gamez

Picked up the remote temp sensor today from the Out of Doors Mart in Greensboro. They seem to stock more parts than any dealership I've ever been to.

Thats cool. Ive been in there but its been a few years.

What i did was figured out where i wanted to mount the sensor. I picked a inside wall because its hollow and because they prefer it that way.

I just drilled a hole where i wanted it. Be careful not to get too big as the black over has to cover the hole.
Then i ran a fish tape up the wall to come out in the roof or attic portion. I then got it thru one of the lights.
That part was tricky i actually had a cabinet behind mine. And i cut out a hole to get thru the roof. I then put a cover over the hole after i got done.
Looks just like something the rv builders would do.

[head gamez]

Originally Posted by brad2388

Sure ill help out. I just had some left over cat 5 off some ip camera installs that i did. It was 60 feet or so.

I wired it to the rj11 standards but i removed the brown wire pair. Just have to make sure your using a straight thru cable. You dont need 12volts to the new ac just one of them which the factory already has.


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Dumb question.... did you use a RJ11 connector? I can't get it to fit. Guess its old school RJ9?

[head gamez]

One more question for you While it is on my mind. Did you have to reprogram the CC2 thermostat to recognize zone 3? I've looked in the book for it and it is not very clear.

[brad2388]

Nope. I had my my everything disconnected. Dc and ac.
I set the dip switch on the new ac control board for zone 3. I plugged in the rj11 cable. This provides 12 volt dc to the controller and when you power everything up the ccc3 will find the new zone.

Pretty simple actually.

The cat 5 does carry 12 volt from the main ac to the other two ac units.

[head gamez]

Originally Posted by brad2388

Nope. I had my my everything disconnected. Dc and ac.
I set the dip switch on the new ac control board for zone 3. I plugged in the rj11 cable. This provides 12 volt dc to the controller and when you power everything up the ccc3 will find the new zone.

Pretty simple actually.

The cat 5 does carry 12 volt from the main ac to the other two ac units.

I can't get a rj11 to snap in. Pretty bad for a telco guy.... although I am a fiber guy.

[brad2388]

Lol na that tells you how sorry rv manufactors are.

Look at your zone 2. It has the same plug. Its just a telephone cable end but it could be a rj9. But i bought a kit at lowes with network cable ends. And i used the smaller ones. Not sure how they are labeled.