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08-16-2016, 06:56 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Added 3rd A/C to 389rd
I figured instead of hijacking a thread id start my own.
Here it goes.
We bought a 2017 sandpiper 389rd with the new whisper cool 15k and a brisk air 2 13,500. After adding two more vents in the kitchen and taping all the ducts and getting the air in the ducts we had figured out in 90 degree and up heat that two ac wont cool below 76-78 degrees.
So im adding a new brisk air 2 15k to the rear vent. Ive also ordered 6 more factory style vents but im not going to add them yet until i get the ac running and see how much pressure each vent has. The camper is under vented according to dometic. They are wanting 8 vents per ac unit at 14 sq inches per vent. There are only 9 for 2 units.
So far ive ran my romex and two pair of cat 5 cables to the rear. I will update this page with pictures and photos of everything.
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08-16-2016, 07:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 162
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Please keep updated, as I want to add a 3rd A/C my toyhauler. Thanks
__________________
2015 Ram Mega 3500 DRW, 2021 Sundowner Krawler Hauler (not a FR brand)
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08-16-2016, 08:20 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: W-S NC
Posts: 441
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I'm in.... And looking forward to the progress.
Thanks.
2016 Sandpiper 376BHOK
2500HD Chevrolet
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08-16-2016, 11:16 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Burleson, Tx.
Posts: 390
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I think it is a shame that we spend upwards of $50,000 on a coach and have to resort to adding A/Cs to cool it appropriately. Unfortunately I too am following to see how this goes as my 16 381RBOK won't get below 78* with ambient temps outside of 91*.
__________________
Bob
2011 Ford F350 Lariat
2016 Sandpiper 381RBOK with an extremely CRAPPY A/C!!!
Nights Camped: 2010 = 14/11 = 27/12 = 13/13 = 10/14 = 30/15 = 47/16 = 30/17 = 21/18 = 11
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08-16-2016, 11:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Burleson, Tx.
Posts: 390
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If you wouldn't mind adding a post about what you did prior to this and dropping a link here so we could see what you did and what the outcome of those repairs was it would be nice too.
__________________
Bob
2011 Ford F350 Lariat
2016 Sandpiper 381RBOK with an extremely CRAPPY A/C!!!
Nights Camped: 2010 = 14/11 = 27/12 = 13/13 = 10/14 = 30/15 = 47/16 = 30/17 = 21/18 = 11
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08-17-2016, 05:23 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chop249
I think it is a shame that we spend upwards of $50,000 on a coach and have to resort to adding A/Cs to cool it appropriately. Unfortunately I too am following to see how this goes as my 16 381RBOK won't get below 78* with ambient temps outside of 91*.
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It is a shame. The quality is terriable. If they would spend just a little bit more time to do little stuff it would make them alot better.
Im suprised with all the problems that people are haveing there hasnt been any lawsuits of all of the quality issues with frame cracks and major stuff.
But us Rvers still buy them. Lol
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08-17-2016, 10:24 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Burleson, Tx.
Posts: 390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad2388
It is a shame. The quality is terriable. If they would spend just a little bit more time to do little stuff it would make them alot better.
Im suprised with all the problems that people are haveing there hasnt been any lawsuits of all of the quality issues with frame cracks and major stuff.
But us Rvers still buy them. Lol
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Did a dealer add the extra vents? I talked to FR today and there is a bulletin from Dometic addressing our issues. I explained exactly what problem I was having and he said this would do it. They have to add the vents, change a board or something and change some wiring.... He said it was about an hour and a half worth of labor for them. Now to get it done in less than 2 months. Every time this dealer has had mine it has been 2 months before I see it again. (Not the dealer I bought from, they are 1000 miles NE of us.)
__________________
Bob
2011 Ford F350 Lariat
2016 Sandpiper 381RBOK with an extremely CRAPPY A/C!!!
Nights Camped: 2010 = 14/11 = 27/12 = 13/13 = 10/14 = 30/15 = 47/16 = 30/17 = 21/18 = 11
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08-17-2016, 10:29 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chop249
Did a dealer add the extra vents? I talked to FR today and there is a bulletin from Dometic addressing our issues. I explained exactly what problem I was having and he said this would do it. They have to add the vents, change a board or something and change some wiring.... He said it was about an hour and a half worth of labor for them. Now to get it done in less than 2 months. Every time this dealer has had mine it has been 2 months before I see it again. (Not the dealer I bought from, they are 1000 miles NE of us.)
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The return vents was there already when i picked up my camper at holmans. Not sure if holmans added them or if forest river did. I couldnt get a straight answer. I added teo more supply vents in the kitchen as well to get some of the front ac down to the living area. No help.
It would be interesting to see what board they are replacing? The wiring i believe is the communication connectors between the thermostat and the roof airs. I think it goves a e1 code because water gets in the connector and corrodes the connections.
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08-17-2016, 10:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 423
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How are you going to power the 3rd A/C? Each A/C can pull 15 - 17 amps, x 3 = 45 - 51 amps. At best, you've only got 50 amps in your RV.
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08-17-2016, 10:42 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrob1161
How are you going to power the 3rd A/C? Each A/C can pull 15 - 17 amps, x 3 = 45 - 51 amps. At best, you've only got 50 amps in your RV.
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50 amp service gives you 100 amps at 120 volt.
I would like to add a 3rd ac to my TT, however there is no hole for it. I'm not sure about cutting a hole in my roof. Would like to watch more about this.
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08-18-2016, 05:24 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrob1161
How are you going to power the 3rd A/C? Each A/C can pull 15 - 17 amps, x 3 = 45 - 51 amps. At best, you've only got 50 amps in your RV.
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The rvs with 50 amp service is 240 volts. So you actually have two 50 amp 120 volt services.
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08-18-2016, 05:26 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 325BH
50 amp service gives you 100 amps at 120 volt.
I would like to add a 3rd ac to my TT, however there is no hole for it. I'm not sure about cutting a hole in my roof. Would like to watch more about this.
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Yes im using a vent hole that was already there. Not sure how you add one when the vents not there. It has to be boxed in to support the weight of the ac without crunching the roof when installed.
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08-18-2016, 08:34 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 81
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I've thought about adding a portable floor model to mine. Drill a 6" hole in the wall and your done.
__________________
2013 365 SAQ
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08-18-2016, 09:07 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Orlando
Posts: 778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rufinit
I've thought about adding a portable floor model to mine. Drill a 6" hole in the wall and your done.
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That would help but not the most efficient setup as these units exhaust the air you are trying to cool, pulling warm air into the unit from any air leaks around vents, holes in floor, etc.
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08-18-2016, 09:42 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad2388
Yes im using a vent hole that was already there. Not sure how you add one when the vents not there. It has to be boxed in to support the weight of the ac without crunching the roof when installed.
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Although I'm not ambitious enough to remove my 2nd ac to see how the "framing for 2nd ac" is done, I'm sure I could figure something out.
What I am not clear on yet, is if the roof trusses are somehow different in the ac framing area, or if there literally is just some "add-on" framing that gets installed to the normal truss spacing.
I can frame/fabricate what is needed (I'm fairly sure)... as long as there isn't anything structurally different in the trusses in that area.
Knowing where the trusses are would help too.
I think the idea is very cool, however I don't know how feasible it is.
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08-18-2016, 11:43 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: W-S NC
Posts: 441
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Did the unit you bought come with the ceiling assembly and gasket? Where did you purchase?
Thanks
2016 Sandpiper 376BHOK
2500HD Chevrolet
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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08-18-2016, 09:22 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Burleson, Tx.
Posts: 390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad2388
The return vents was there already when i picked up my camper at holmans. Not sure if holmans added them or if forest river did. I couldnt get a straight answer. I added teo more supply vents in the kitchen as well to get some of the front ac down to the living area. No help.
It would be interesting to see what board they are replacing? The wiring i believe is the communication connectors between the thermostat and the roof airs. I think it goves a e1 code because water gets in the connector and corrodes the connections.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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We got ours at Holman too. I like them and none of our problems are their fault. I wish I could have them service our unit but I drove 1000 miles one way to buy from them. It isn't feasible to have them service it. Do you have 3 or 4 return vents? Ours from the factory had 2 and I've seen 2 more added for a total of 4 but the Dometic bulletin only says to add 1 more for a total of 3. I HOPE, HOPE, HOPE that fixes the issue. It really seems as though the unit is cooling the air but it just isn't moving enough of that cool air through the return vents to cool the coach down. When I compare the output of the 15k BTU main cabin output to the 13.5K BTU master bedroom unit the MB unit puts out A LOT more air.
__________________
Bob
2011 Ford F350 Lariat
2016 Sandpiper 381RBOK with an extremely CRAPPY A/C!!!
Nights Camped: 2010 = 14/11 = 27/12 = 13/13 = 10/14 = 30/15 = 47/16 = 30/17 = 21/18 = 11
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08-18-2016, 10:24 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chop249
We got ours at Holman too. I like them and none of our problems are their fault. I wish I could have them service our unit but I drove 1000 miles one way to buy from them. It isn't feasible to have them service it. Do you have 3 or 4 return vents? Ours from the factory had 2 and I've seen 2 more added for a total of 4 but the Dometic bulletin only says to add 1 more for a total of 3. I HOPE, HOPE, HOPE that fixes the issue. It really seems as though the unit is cooling the air but it just isn't moving enough of that cool air through the return vents to cool the coach down. When I compare the output of the 15k BTU main cabin output to the 13.5K BTU master bedroom unit the MB unit puts out A LOT more air.
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Ours came with 5 return vents two on the seach side and one in the middle. Ours also is cooling the air about 20 degrees but there just isnt enough to go around i suppose.
The new blizzard nxt i believe is at fault. The brisk air 2 blows about 7-8 degrees colder air than the blizzard. It will blow 50 degree air all day long with 76-78 air coming into it. Its also stronger as well.
I hope tomorrow i can finish the third ac install. Here is a list and some new pics of the install.
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08-18-2016, 11:00 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Burleson, Tx.
Posts: 390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad2388
Ours came with 5 return vents two on the seach side and one in the middle. Ours also is cooling the air about 20 degrees but there just isnt enough to go around i suppose.
The new blizzard nxt i believe is at fault. The brisk air 2 blows about 7-8 degrees colder air than the blizzard. It will blow 50 degree air all day long with 76-78 air coming into it. Its also stronger as well.
I hope tomorrow i can finish the third ac install. Here is a list and some new pics
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yes it is like the fan isn't pushing enough CFM to get the could air out of the return ducting and into the cabin. I agree the air is within specs at 16 - 20* cooler than the air coming into the a/c. I double checked ours toady with a laser thermometer. Mine is going in to a different dealer on Sept. 8th for the bulletin (recall) work. I guess we will see at that point. I'm thoroughly tempted to take the 13.5K from the front and put it in the main cabin and the 15K and put it in the Master BR to see if that makes any difference in the CFMs pushed into the ducting...... What do I know though. I'm just the end user...... and I'm
__________________
Bob
2011 Ford F350 Lariat
2016 Sandpiper 381RBOK with an extremely CRAPPY A/C!!!
Nights Camped: 2010 = 14/11 = 27/12 = 13/13 = 10/14 = 30/15 = 47/16 = 30/17 = 21/18 = 11
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08-19-2016, 06:56 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chop249
Yes it is like the fan isn't pushing enough CFM to get the could air out of the return ducting and into the cabin. I agree the air is within specs at 16 - 20* cooler than the air coming into the a/c. I double checked ours toady with a laser thermometer. Mine is going in to a different dealer on Sept. 8th for the bulletin (recall) work. I guess we will see at that point. I'm thoroughly tempted to take the 13.5K from the front and put it in the main cabin and the 15K and put it in the Master BR to see if that makes any difference in the CFMs pushed into the ducting...... What do I know though. I'm just the end user...... and I'm
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The problem is the blizzard 15k is a new style with the return ducts ran width wise of the camper. The return for the 13500 is in the roof. So its different.
I completed the instal today and with all 3 units running and set to 55 the bedroom was 63 the kitchen was 65 and the living room was 64.
It was 92 with alot of humidity but i fee there is enough ac now for a hotter day.
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