Help anyone, weak brake issues!

[golfmedik]

Mber, sent you a PM.

[golfmedik]

After towing to Myrtle Beach and back last week(790 miles round trip) the brakes are stopping much better. Thank goodness! I had a 'panic stop' on wet pavement and the truck and trailer did exactly as they were supposed to do and was easily stopped and kept under control(form only 40 mph however). My controller is set on 7 right now and the brakes have done well. I can now feel the trailer momentarily tug back on the truck when the brakes are applied. They have made a remarkable improvement over the way they were when the axles were first put in. It just took some adjustment. I am going to pull another 250 miles or so, then jack it up and check the adjustment again to make sure I still have a little drag while up in the air. Anyway, I just thought I would give you guys an update. I hope you guys are getting some answers and help with your brake problem as well.

[mber]

That's great news,

I to have upgraded (again) to dexter 7000lbs, brakes only, hoping to improve braking power. From what I'm hearing from you is reassuring that I'm on the right track.

Disc brakes were a bit pricy for me as we do not travel that much with the trailer.

I was hoping to get 7000lbs axles from forestriver but my leaf spring are not sagging yet. We only drive about 2000 miles a year so it may take a while for them to bend. I will still replace them next year as they are weak. When you walk in the trailer, you can feel the trailer bounce. Right now, I have about a 3/8" inverted sag in them.

Last thing I would want is a broken leaf on a freeway.

Thanks for the update.

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by rwpdir

MBER, I have a 13 365 and am experiencing the same issue. Have had truck checked at GM dealer and all is good. Trailer brakes were adjusted by tech and they say they are good, however, I am at 8 on the controler to get drag and at 10 I can't lock it up. I am open to suggestions as well. As much as I like my trailer dealer he seems to be lost on this one too.

I am thinking on going back to the timed controller vs the prodigy, I too adjusted to just drag and it still does not lock, dealer (rv said all good voltage) at the magnets

[Rtazz17]

Why do you want to lock the brakes up when stopping hard? You shouldnt be able to unless you are in gravel, dirt ect.. Skidding does not slow you down. If I manually slide my brake controller to 10 I will not lock the brakes nor should I..Truck and camper should slow as one unit.. Should not feel the camper tugging you when brakes are applied...

[golfmedik]

Originally Posted by Rtazz17

Why do you want to lock the brakes up when stopping hard? You shouldnt be able to unless you are in gravel, dirt ect.. Skidding does not slow you down. If I manually slide my brake controller to 10 I will not lock the brakes nor should I..Truck and camper should slow as one unit.. Should not feel the camper tugging you when brakes are applied...

I agree. Anything locked or sliding can result in loss of control. You are also correct that sliding is beneficial only on dirt/gravel.

[F and E Damp]

I guess it depends which week you were having the problem.

[jevanb]

their should be enough pressure to lock the wheel with any controller and a proper set up brake assy.. at the highest setting I cant lock up any wheel, I dont run the controller that high but they should have the ability to lock, read you manual for a prodigy and how to adjust if that is the type you have..

[mber]

I suspect no one really what the wheel on the trailer to lock up on the highway but you what enough brakes on the trailer to feel comfortable to stop under certain condition. This will very from person to person.

For me, having the controller at 10 means there is no more room on the trailer brakes. That all your getting. Your maxed out.

I like to have room on the slider in case of emergency. On some brake controllers, they seem to back off on the trailer brakes once you start to slow down. In some circumstance, you don't want it to back off.

Or the brakes are wearing down slightly so you may want to increase your gain until you can adjust them. But if your already at 10, that means you need to adjust right away wish would suck if your coming to a big hill.

If I can get my gain down to 7 and feel a good tug on from the trailer when I press on the truck brake, then I'll be satisfied.

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by mber

Or the brakes are wearing down slightly so you may want to increase your gain until you can adjust them. But if your already at 10, that means you need to adjust right away wish would suck if your coming to a big hill.

brand new unit with brand new pads, I adjusted myself to just drag while on jacks

[Rtazz17]

Originally Posted by jevanb

their should be enough pressure to lock the wheel with any controller and a proper set up brake assy.. at the highest setting I cant lock up any wheel, I dont run the controller that high but they should have the ability to lock, read you manual for a prodigy and how to adjust if that is the type you have..

This is 100 percent not true.You yourself may be able to lock your particular setup with controller set to 10 but thats not true on every setup.Weight of camper being an example amongst other variables.Yes when I had travel trailers weighing less then 8k I could lock my brakes up if my controller was set to ten.Moving to a fifth weighing 12-14 k not so much..Locking up your brakes has nothing to do with slowing down is the point here.In fact as said above will cause you to lose control.Not saying op doesnt have some kind of brake issue but locking brakes shouldnt be part of the equation in determining if they are working appropriately.

[jevanb]

well this is right out of my prodigy manuel, they make the controllers and prob know more then me

Adjusting the Power to the Trailer
Brakes

(Prior to setting Boost)

Once the control has been securely mounted in the
direction of travel, it is necessary to set the power
needed to stop the trailer during a braking event.
1. Connect trailer to tow vehicle.
2. With engine running hold manual full left and set
Power Knob to indicate approximately 6.0
3. Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved
surface at 25 mph and fully apply manual knob.

3

If trailer brakes lock up:

q

Turn power down using power knob.

3

If braking was not sufficient:

q

Turn power up using power knob.
4. Repeat Step (3) until power has been set to a point
just below wheel lock up or at a sufficient force as

to achieve maximum braking power.

[avolnek]

Originally Posted by Rtazz17

This is 100 percent not true.You yourself may be able to lock your particular setup with controller set to 10 but thats not true on every setup.

Uhh... The second sentence of your contradicts your first one... I tend to believe that if a trailer of ANY given weight is setup with adequate sized brakes for the weight it should be able to lock the trailer brakes! If you are able to lock the tires in a braking maneuver that means you are achieving MAXIMUM braking force.

I, nor is anyone else stating that you should leave it set to lock the brakes when you apply the TV brakes, BUT I feel that you should be able to.

Worst case scenario I want to know that I have MAXIMUM braking force available to me and I can stop before I hit something, go over something ect ect...

[Herk7769]

What kind of braking force are you getting with locked drums?
Once the rubber starts to skid; there is zero braking going on.

Just before lockup at 25 MPH or so, is the correct setting. At speed, you should "just" feel the camper "tugging" on the truck when braking.

[avolnek]

I am stating that you are ABLE to achieve maximum braking force if you are able to lock up. You are correct that true maximum force would be just shy of locking the tires. Hence anti lock brakes. But I still believe that a properly equipped trailer will be able to lock the tires.

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by herk7769

What kind of braking force are you getting with locked drums?
Once the rubber starts to skid; there is zero braking going on.

Just before lockup at 25 MPH or so, is the correct setting. At speed, you should "just" feel the camper "tugging" on the truck when braking.

nobody including me thinks that they should drive around with the controller set to lock the brakes but I think I ought to have the available power to do it. my issue is with the brakes adjusted to just drag and with the controller set to max is still does not stop very well.

[Herk7769]

I think some of the disconnect is how the electric brakes work compared to the hydro-mechanical brakes on a car or truck.

The electrical signal from the controller goes to a magnet that tries to grab the drum. the sliding of the magnet on the drum activates an arm that applies the brake. It is very hard to lock the drum at most any speed since the magnetic force required to stop the drum rotating would be quite high.

[avolnek]

With an adequate brake setup you SHOULD be able to lock the drum/wheel... Adequate being the key word and open to interpretation from different individuals...

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by avolnek

With an adequate brake setup you SHOULD be able to lock the drum/wheel... Adequate being the key word and open to interpretation from different individuals...

IMO, the speed would have to be very low and the voltage (bias) setting very high to do that.

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by herk7769

IMO, the speed would have to be very low and the voltage (bias) setting very high to do that.

yes, hence the 25mph speed that the adjustment is made