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Old 06-25-2013, 08:43 AM   #21
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MBER, good luck keep us informed. I understand your situation with time and distance to dealer. I'm going to keep working on it from my end. I feel the manufacturer has a responsability to put out a safe product. FR knows they have some issues and have worked to resolve some of them. Read "weight" and the result Golfmedic was able to attain. Thanks to all of you for your comments and assistance. We all must drive defensively especially when towing, but when the other less informed driver creates an "oh crap" it is incumbent upon us to get stopped in a safe manner for our families and others.
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:37 PM   #22
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I had 6k axles under my '12 365 and had no problems with the brakes. They were AL-KO axles and brakes. When they were changed out to 7k Dexter axles I had a LOT of problems. The AL-KOs were self adjusting. The Dexter ones that replaced them are not. They are slightly bigger brakes, but were no where as 'capable' as the 6k brakes in terms of stopping. Turns out they were never adjusted. Only one (RF) had any drag to it at all. Two of them had to be clicked over 12 times to get it to drag. Now that they are adjusted, they stop some better, but my trailer output is still set at 8.5. At least I can stop the combo from 10 mph with just the controller now. These are very heavy rigs and I too wish that discs were an option. As stated, these units are big and heavy and need better brakes. I've already been discussing the matter with my dealer. In defense of the bigger brakes, it's only been towed less than 75 miles since I adjusted the brakes. So, I am hoping it will get better as the shoes seat themselves.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:21 PM   #23
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Golfmedik,

Your not very encouraging.

My father in law has a 36 ft fifth wheel crossroad weighing in at 16000lbs GVW. He has 7000lbs axle from lippert. His gain is set at 5. Any higher and the wheel lock up.

If this doesn't work then there will axle for sale in my front lawn for a utility trailer and I too will be purchasing 7000k axles for this trailer.

Please keep me posted if your brakes improve over time. If they don't, I would run a new wire to the brake. Just be replacing mine, I gained 3amps to the brakes. The wiring starts off good but deteriorated somewhere in my trailer.

I'm keeping my finger crossed. Will know on Thursday. The first test drive is Thursday night. I will let you all know if these brakes are better.

One thing I learned through this ordeal is that RV dealer and auto part store are not very knowledgeable in trailer brakes. My next stop, if I need to purchase new axles, will be a trailer shop. We have one nearby. They build different utility and transport trailers. If they can help me, then it hopeless.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:39 PM   #24
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Thanks for the information.

I will look into it. It is rather interesting. I wondering how much more braking power you can get out of disc brake?
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:54 PM   #25
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Thanks golf medic. When we returned from the out west trip I took it to the dealer who found the breaks out of adjustment from the plant and corrected them.I went from 8.5 to 7-7.5. (some improvement) I just returned from the Thousand Island area of NY Sunday and was not pleased with breaking ability of the rig. Been pulling for over 40 yrs all types big and small and this just plain isn't acceptable.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:30 AM   #26
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My magnets were no good from day one! I recommend replacing all 4 magnets even if they did ohm out good. glad I did mine. it now stops like it should.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:48 PM   #27
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Yes, I wanted to change just the magnets to, but they looked so small compared to the Dexter magnets. So I decided to replace the whole backing plate.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:28 AM   #28
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I've thought long and hard about this ever since I REALLY 'discovered' how heavy these rigs really are

or follow the guys from the TV show TruckU as they did the swap on their car hauler(same axles as we have).
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:36 AM   #29
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Here is the Kodiak swap kit for 7k axles https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...k/K2HR712.html

And here it is for 6K axles https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra.../K2HR526D.html

As you can see, it is not nearly as expensive as I thought it would be. Although I've thought about this, I am not promoting it as I haven't done this myself. I've only seen one rig with these Kodiak discs on it. It was a triple axle TH and the owner was very pleased. Just throwing out some options here guys. What ticks me off is that we SHOULD"NT have to be CONSIDERING this. I am leaving next weekend going to the beach for a week. I am taking my brake spoon and am not against re-adjusting my brakes in the parking lot of a store! The trip is 360 miles so I hope the brakes seat by then. I will report back with my experience and let you know.
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2001 Chevy 3500CC DRW 4x4, 8.1L, 4.10 gears w/ Detroit TrueTrac
2001 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3L,V/B Spring Mod, ProComps, Hellwig Swaybar, & other 'Necessities'
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:56 AM   #30
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Hello guys

I'm running a13 365 with 7000 lb alco's and run at about a 7 to 7.5 gain on a prodigy brake controller with great response and normal (meaning same input as without the trailer connected in normal stopping conditions) braking response. The boost setting which increase initial brake amperage does allow for some nice finite adjustment, anyway that's neither here nor there. As far as locking the brakes up it is going to be extremely difficult, due to the overall high weight of this rig and the smaller (under rated) 6000lb axles. While 7000 lb. axles would increase drum and shoe size a small amount the initial braking response would most likely be minimal in feel. The larger gains would be in the form of heat sinking or overall long term braking. Also service life would be increased with the larger drums and shoes but not feel. The 6 k axles that are 1- properly adjusted 2- installed correctly 3- not over heated or glazed 4- not contaminated by grease or oil (which can not be removed no matter how much brake clean you spray them with) 5 - have properly working magnets should perform within normal specs. As far as locking up that is not advised or beneficial, adjustment of the controller should be done on a level paved surface with the gain set to a level which can stop the trailer and vehicle over a short distance from about 10 to 15 mph with the full activation of the trailer brakes only. This setting should get you in the ballpark + or - for personal feel of normal uncoupled operation. As far as the initial question through the process of elimination you have concluded that the brake controller is operational and normal, the wiring is ok I would start to look inside the drum contamination first , adjustment second and mechanical ( bad parts ) third. Cutting the drums wouldn't be a bad or expensive idea either if the magnets are weak like you said new backing plates would probably be just as easy as screwing around with changing the magnets.
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