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Old 07-27-2013, 09:06 AM   #61
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,937
I completely agree with Jevanb and Avolnek and understand exactly what you are saying. If there isn't enough force "available" to lock your wheels at 25mph on any weight of camper, your system is not working properly or adjusted properly. This is not to say this is where you should leave your adjustment, because it most certainly isn't. I am "able" to lock my wheels on my 14k 5er at 25mph, but that's not where I adjust my controller to.

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Old 07-29-2013, 08:25 PM   #62
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Reisterstown, Md.
Posts: 33
Since my June 25 post I have been on the road for several trips. Still not happy with brakes. Dealer readjusted and while in the Pocono Mtns a car full of kids blew a stop causing me to slam on the brakes. Got it stopped by skin of my teeth. Pulled over and checked drums with infrared heat sensor and had 3 drums in 165 range and 1 at 130. Not set rite so will do it myself. After reading the other posts I decided to contact NHTSA about specs. Contacted reg 3 office in Baltimore. They couldn't help me but gave me number to "auto safety hotline" who had no idea but gave me a number for the safety office in DC. Called DC and talked to a safety director that called me back after some investigation. NHTSA DOES NOT regulate any braking on travel trailers. Evidently the industry sets the standards. The Federal Motor Carrier Admin only regulates commercial vehicles and air brakes.( he couldn't find any reference at all about electric brakes on travel trailers) States regulate what weight classes need brakes within there borders. The RV industry has done a good job of keeping a hand off by the Fed. Hense why 80+% of RVers don't have CDL's. With the industry calling the shots we are at their mercy. One thing that DC did say, is the brakes should be able to stop the trailer not just help slow it down. Also, that since the manufacturer certifies the trailer, if there is an incident he felt the manufacturer also bears some liability if it does not perform appropriately.

2008 Sierra Crew Cab LB 4x4 Duramax/Allison
2013 Sierra 365SAQ
Nights camping in 2014: 25
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:17 PM   #63
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Well, finally got this Sandpiper to stop correctly. I upgraded these brakes to dexter high performance 7K brakes. Then adjusted the brakes until the wheel would only turn one revolution. Like magic the trailer stops a lot faster. The wheel still don't lock up but you smell the rubber from the tires when you need to do an emergency stop.

I was surprise how much brakes drag was required when adjusting the brakes. I had to adjust them with significant drag to get them to work. Now I have the controller set a 7 and you really fell the trailer drag.

I had to do a lot of experimenting with the heat gun to insure the brakes were not dragging after adjustment.

At one point in town the with the new brakes the breakaway cable got caught on the fifth wheel while turning. Let me tell you that the trailer stop dead in the intersection. If it would have been the old set up, I would have not even notice. I could of continued pulling the trailer.

I'm happy to have that behind me. My controller is now set at 7. When I need to stop on the highway and I apply full brakes, the tires don't lock up but you can smell a little bit of rubber and the stopping distance is a lot shorter.
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:31 AM   #64
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Auburn, GA
Posts: 966
After my vacation trip of almost 1000 miles, mine brake have seated and now stop the way they should. Finally!!

2012 Sandpiper 365SAQ weighing @ 15k, Onan, 2nd air, slide toppers, TST
2013 F350 6.7L Lariat 4x4 CC DRW,Viair 1007, Ride-Rites, Edge CTS, B&W
2001 Chevy 3500CC DRW 4x4, 8.1L, 4.10 gears w/ Detroit TrueTrac
2001 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3L,V/B Spring Mod, ProComps, Hellwig Swaybar, & other 'Necessities'
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