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Old 08-17-2015, 07:33 AM   #21
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I have managed to get it cooler. Some extra sun screen on the west side had made a big difference. I have also coated my roof with Dicor cool coating. Nice and bright white now.

The sun screen dropped the inside wall temp in the same place, same time of day and same outside temp. From 122 to 84. That reduction in heat load makes a difference. I am in the process of making sure that all my central vents are tapped properly.

I have talked to many long term campers where I am and they are all having problems in the heat of the day. No matter the unit maker. I don't feel so bad now.

When the heat index is 118 in the shade and I can get 77 deg inside in the rear and 70 in the front. I don't feel bad when others can't get below 82.

I know that the manufactures test the units to 100 deg, but that is in an oven. Not in the sun. There is a big difference in 100 deg sauna and standing out in the sun with 100 deg in the shade temps.

I am long term where I work. I pay by the month and I also have to pay the electric bill. I will spend a few $'s to save many.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:02 AM   #22
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almost justifies a white canopy held 1-2 feet above the highest part. That system reduces the heat load on the shaded equipment. This set up is routinely utilized in hot climates. I have seen shading of AC units, entire living areas/tents. Have not needed to do that with my rig.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:40 AM   #23
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The color of your RV is causing issues in my opinion as well. I have a Sandpiper 30IOK of the same color and have found I am 5 degree warmer the. Others with the same type of camper. The 13 model came in white and what I am comparing too.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:55 AM   #24
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I agree 100%. The color will have a great deal to do with the heat absorbed. The rubber roof being tan does not help either. 125 sqft of mine is now bright white.

RV's are built to the minimum standards. There is a major difference in putting an RV in a closed building and turning on the heater to 100 deg and see how the RV does in keeping cool. Then take that same RV and put it out in the sun on a 100 deg day. The numbers will not even be close.

The outside skin will not get over 100 deg when inside the oven. I have recorded over 130 deg skin temp at 5 pm on mine. That is a 30 deg extra heat load the A/C's have to contend with.

I had several people walking by ask me if I was having cooling issues, having seen the sun screens I have up. My answer was not now, I am cool. By dropping the inside wall temps almost 40 deg in the heat of the day. I have taken a great load off the A/C's.

Last week with rear thermostat set at 78, I would get constant run and 83-85 inside temp. Now, I get 78 and the unit will cycle as it should. The front is not a problem. Much smaller room and I do have a little shade for it.


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The color of your RV is causing issues in my opinion as well. I have a Sandpiper 30IOK of the same color and have found I am 5 degree warmer the. Others with the same type of camper. The 13 model came in white and what I am comparing too.
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:53 PM   #25
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Yeah, wife was big on the darker colour and I will be honest I liked the different look as well. Next RV I do not think will have a dark colour although eyes are on a New Horizons for the next purchase but years away.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:23 PM   #26
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Yes, R-38 in the roof is almost 10" thick fiberglass. When they changed my A/C out Wednesday, I saw what was up there and not even close to R-38. The R-38E is calculated including the radiant barrier. I think the walls are R-10E. The "E" stands for "Effective". I have seen several that have that designation.

I know that I did not buy a top of the line RV, not for what I paid for it. Half the MSRP of the Jayco that I looked at comparable. That is why I have not had any issue with doing the upgrades that I have done. it is a much better unit than when I bought it. I was loosing so much cold air in the pass through storage. That has been fixed now. Everything helps on the RV. I live full time in mine due to work. I have the time to do the little things that will make it much better. I have on the list to do the inside of the nose cap with spray foam to help that out some.
Please explain how you plan to foam inside the nose cap?
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:25 PM   #27
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scottq985 do you have any pics of the sun screens set up? Might be something we would consider. ACs doing good job but anything to take load off ac is something we should look into.
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:35 AM   #28
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Here is the first picture. I have since moved this one down to cover the refer vents. The slide out is 15 ft and the screen is 15 ft. I got this one at camping world and it is for the awning. I have since used some Lowes sun screen from the garden dept. I got a 6 x 40 roll for less than $50. I used some 1 x 2's and stapled the screen to them in a vertical fashion. Then I used some of the medium spring clamps (giant clothes pins) to hold the 1 x 2's on the slide outs, between them. Between the bed slide and kitchen slide. From the rear of the kitchen slide to the rear of the camper. I will get more pictures today. It may not look the best, but it has taken me from constant run and 84 deg to cycling at 77.

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scottq985 do you have any pics of the sun screens set up? Might be something we would consider. ACs doing good job but anything to take load off ac is something we should look into.
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:51 AM   #29
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I have a 377flik, I have added one of those "indoor A/C" units...the ones you just need to put a 4" exhaust line out a window. I removed one small window sash from the side of a slide-out window. It works great. I also have to leave all the doors to cabinets, pantry, etc. open if they are on an exterior wall.
My pantry will get up into the 100's if i leave the door closed. So, to help preserve my food and keep the place cool I just bought an 8,000 BTU unit to help out.

Wish they made a 25,000 BTU unit for the roofs to add that extra "Umph" needed in the high heat times, but maybe one day they will.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:30 PM   #30
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Just changed front cap on 2015 Silverback 33rl. Plenty of insulation and barrier shield was behind. Mr unit does not have a rear "cap".
I did go to 2016 Oyster vs Mocha ( brown). Got to be cooler!!
Have heard from reliable sources who have no skin in the game, that even full body paint may not oxidize, however, they do DRAW HEAT in darker colors!
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