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Old 04-14-2013, 10:22 PM   #11
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Well the one we have a deposit on is sitting on the lot. It has the signature package which has all the upgrades we were wanting. So as it sits right now it has 6k axles and I dont think they will swap them out
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:30 PM   #12
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This is option list on mine. I'm not to worried about the 6k axles but I would get them if I could.
Color: Saddle
Options:
12V Deep Cycle Battery
Signature Package: Serta Mattress w/Memory Foam, Leather La-Z-Boy Recliner (where available), Docking Station w/By Pass, High Gloss Gelcoated Fiberglass Exterior, Surround Sound System, Jensen 32 inch Television, Jensen AM/FM CD/DVD Player, Fantastic Fan in Bathroom, Tri Fold Hide-A-Bed, One Touch Dometic Electric Awning, 15K Air Conditioner, Wire and Brace for 2nd AC (ducted), Residential Pullout Kitchen Faucet, 10 Gallon G/E Water Heater W/DSI, 16 inch Spare Tire Kit, Aluminum Wheels, Washer/Dryer Prep, 10,000 Gallon Water Filter System, Wood Plank BeauFlor, Aerodynamic Fiberglass Front Cap

Fall Bonus Package: Hydrolift Landing Gear, Equaflex Suspension, Roto-flex Hitch Pin, Painted Front Cap, Rear Electric Stabilizer Jacks, Friction Entrance Door, Dual Zone A/C Prep, Central Vacuum System
Solid Surface Countertops
King Bed In Place of Queen
All Weather Exterior Kitchen
Second Air Conditioner in Bedroom
R-38 Radiant Insulation Package
Dealer Prep - FREE!
RVWholesalers Nationwide Service Network
MSRP was close to 58k I paid $37471 out the door. Just for comparison.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:40 PM   #13
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That is exactly all the options ours is coming with. Right now the dealer has us at 38,500. Im hoping he will come down on the price. Im not very good at negotiating, our camper we have now was bought from some friends at a steal so no negotiating went on. Ours does have the mocha interior instead of the saddle. All the negative comments about the axles not being up to par have us a little gun shy on it.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:44 PM   #14
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Have a 34'TT (Cherokee). Light switches very convenient by doors, entranceways, etc. BUT (isn't there always one?).....the slide button is right next to the living room light button. No difference in feel, so once in a while I inadvertently start closing the slides. Thinking of putting a bubble top over that button that requires you to lift up the bubble to access the slide button to avoid that mishap. Ironically, learned of this at work in a hospital. The Code button was right next to the bathroom light button. Many Many false alarms until they installed the bubble caps over the code button.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:59 AM   #15
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Rufinit,
So this is your actual dry weight? I'm looking at the same camper and we have a deposit down on it but I'm kind of nervous about the weight, length, and height lol. That weight makes me feel a lot better. What are you pulling with?
It looks like his dry weight is very close to the advertised weight. The axle weight from the second scale was 10-thousand-something. You then need to determine the pin weight (by subtracting the two drive axle weights unless there is weight pushed to the front axle - in which case, add that in). That was 2,300 or so. Adding the trailer axle weight plus the pin weight gives you something in the high twelve-thousand range - which is fairly close to advertised. (Sorry for the generalizations on the numbers- I'm on my phone and can't switch to the message to see the actual numbers.)

If you want to find out if you'll be ok and within the ratings of your truck- lately there have been a few great threads on payload capacity and how it works together.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:47 AM   #16
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Congrats on the 365s! As we have found, some of them are coming in close to what is advertised, however once options are added, the weight adds up quickly. Some of them as we all know, are way over the advertised weight. What is bothering me a little now, is a couple of forum members have PM'd about the quality of workmanship in the newest of campers. There have been several that stated with a little supervision at the factory, they could stop 90% of the complaints with workmanship. Here at home, we've had problems with a couple of slides being out of adjustment that the dealers are being very cautious of adjusting. What is even more funny is the fact that some of the 365 owners around here are finding that they are not getting any satisfaction at the dealer they bought the rig from, so they are going to other dealers that do warranty work on FR products to have the work done. One of the members here that had some work done in the axle department, came home without the frame and parts not even being painted. Things like this are driving people nuts. I wonder if the popularity of this unit has gone up so much that they are building them too quickly at the expense of quality control? I know we will all have something that we will have to have repaired at one time or another, but some of the reports are concerning. I know of two more in the SE in the last couple of weeks that have been ordered with 7k axles due to several options being added.
Overall, I still believe these are very good rigs. All makers will have a few problems, but several of these should be caught at the factory. My advice to the ones that have weighed these units while dry, FR stated they make them with an 1800 pound cargo carrying capacity, so watch your empty weights. Also, realize that these units are made to sleep several people, and each of those people carry things to camp that are not in the camper all of the time. So when loaded to camp, weigh it then so you will know where you stand. Good luck your 365s as I still believe it the best floor plan out there right now. You can tell that by how many have started to copy it nowadays!
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post

It looks like his dry weight is very close to the advertised weight. The axle weight from the second scale was 10-thousand-something. You then need to determine the pin weight (by subtracting the two drive axle weights unless there is weight pushed to the front axle - in which case, add that in). That was 2,300 or so. Adding the trailer axle weight plus the pin weight gives you something in the high twelve-thousand range - which is fairly close to advertised. (Sorry for the generalizations on the numbers- I'm on my phone and can't switch to the message to see the actual numbers.)

If you want to find out if you'll be ok and within the ratings of your truck- lately there have been a few great threads on payload capacity and how it works together.
Thank you for clearing that up for me. Still learning all these things. Makes more sense now. Ependydad do you have a 365saq, if so what do you pull with?
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:35 PM   #18
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Thank you for clearing that up for me. Still learning all these things. Makes more sense now. Ependydad do you have a 365saq, if so what do you pull with?
I do not. I have a Sabre that is the same length and ballpark weight. There were some things on the 365 that we weren't crazy about. But- I do like the floorplan with the kitchen reversed better than mine.

I pull with a Dodge Ram 3500 dual rear wheel truck. It has a long bed and the 4.10 gears for the extra pulling power.

I recently took it to the local scales to get an idea of our weights and to ensure that I was within all my ratings. It was a very enlightening experience:
http://learntorv.blogspot.com/2013/0...at-scales.html

I also posted about that here and there was some good discussion. This blog post came afterwards and partially summarizes what I learned.

My recommendation is that you need a 350/3500 truck to pull this and even strongly suggest a DRW truck. But, there are folks pulling with less and making educated (I hope) choices to do so- it's just not for me.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:11 PM   #19
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So I figured out I have 20 watt g4 light bulbs. Has anyone found a good led replacement for them?
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:29 AM   #20
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Well I have been busy customizing the new camper. I bought a 4 battery box and drilled a hole in the lid to utilize the stock vent. I also cut in a lower hole to tie into the lower vent hole.

The next thing that drove me crazy was the light switch was in the cabinet with the control panel. There was a switch on the wall that controlled the light above the tv. I 1st pulled the panel in the cabnet and then pulled the 110 volt receptacle out of the the wall and pulled the 12 volt light switch. There is a stud between the 2 holes so I drilled a 1/2 hole through the stud and pulled a double wire from the control panel down to the 110 receptacle and through the hole to the 12 volt light switch. On the negative wire I put a male spade at the switch and a female spade at the control panel. On the positive wire I put and male spade at the control panel and a female at the light switch. I then unplugged the non blue wire from each switch and put my double wire inline with the wires. Now I can use the light switch in the wall to control the main lights and the switch in the panel controls the Tv light.

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