New 365 Saq owner

[golfmedik]

Good job!

[Rufinit]

So I got my inverter remote display and trimetric all buttoned up inside.

[supercab79]

By the way did the switch w swap today well well worth the 15 mins of effort it takes.

[Rufinit]

Yeah it is crazy that they put the main switch into a cabinet.
Here is a picture of my battery box that holds 4 batteries utilizing the factory vents.
You can also see the inverter cables with the 300 amp fuse and the shunt for the trimetric battery meter.



I'm working on reinforcing the fold down bunk but I read before that the 2012's had a wood frame. It looks like mine is 2x2 aluminum framed. I just wondered if this was a model year change or if they were all aluminum?

[Rufinit]

I finished up all my wiring projects for now. I was amazed there are no 12 volt plugs anywhere so I installed 2 below the tv.
I also wired my inverter to it's own plug to power the whole camper.
I also wired up the front Air conditioner to run off a 20 amp circuit so when only 30 amp service is available I can just flip the switch and plug an extension cord in and the front a/c will have it's own power.
Here is a picture of my inverter it's a 2k watt model.

I upgraded the convertor to a 4 stage 75 amp boondocker to help maintain the batteries.

Now I can start on organizing all the storage space.

[golfmedik]

Very nice Ruf...very nice.. Now it makes me want to do more with mine..This forum is bad for that!

[Rufinit]

My next minor project was to reinforce the lower stair so it wouldn't feel like I was going to step thru it anymore. I took a 4x4 and cut 1 side at a 5 degree angle and cut the other end flat. The I just set it under the center support and hammered it over until it was tight. I did this all from the front. Just remove the grate.

[cmptrkd]

You'll have to let us know how the AC on the 20amp circuit works out. I had also thought of doing something similar and so many people said it would never work. I would say 75% of our camping is at parks where we can only get a 30amp for one reason or another. I have been wanting to do something like this. If t works good for you, I'm curious if you would share how you did the mod. I'm guessing you're just switching the load (or black wire) either from the camper plug, or the new plug you installed, but is the neutral just running from the main unit at all times? I know enough about electrical to get most things done, but just not sure if you are hooking up both neutrals and letting it bond to both. Thanks for your posts on your mods, they look nice.

[Rufinit]

Here is a link to a thread I had on Rv.net. I was planning on using this for the inverter but for now I just plug the rv plug into my inverter and shut off the converter. I used a double pole double throw middle off switch. This switch has 6 screws. This way you switch both wires. I have tested my setup and it works fine. RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Double pole Double Throw Switch For inverter

[Rufinit]

I have been complaining on how poor the heat works in my camper so i decided to do some testing. I bought a handheld wind meter and checked my vents to see how hard they blow. I have 4 vents in my camper. 1 in the master and upstairs bathroom. They are both fed by a duct that two hoses from the furnace connect to. I have a vent in the main room and the kids room, these are also fed by another duct and 2 other hoses from the furnace feed this duct. My main concern is heating the kids room.
If I run the furnace the way it was designed the 2 upstairs registers flow 5mph. The main room flows 4mph and the kids room flows 3.5mph.

If I close all the vents but the kids room it will flow 8mph. I then checked to see ho hard the hoses will blow without the duct. I added a 5th hose to the furnace and put a round register on it. It will blow 12mph and the kids room maintained 8mph.
So it seems the ducting is very inefficient in my camper.
I decided to add a register to one of my air intake vents under the stairs to help heat the main room while still providing the most heat to the kids room.
I cut the stock register to accept the new round register.

Here it is installed in the register.
Here is the hose routed under the stairs.
Here is the octopus of hoses from the furnace. I can now sit on the couch and feel the air from my new vent, and the kids room feels good.

[Rufinit]

Couple of more projects done.
I mounted a 8" pvc pipe under the camper using uni strut to hold my rug.


I also needed to add a support to the bottom bunk. I found this support for the bottom step of the entry steps.

[golfmedik]

I have the same 8" pipe to put under mine. Going to put my awning poles in it. Just haven't taken the time since the weather turned nice. Good job!

[kraftchick]

Originally Posted by Campnfireman

I know the brochure says dry weight of 12,800 and honestly that has me a little nervous. I'l be towing with a 2006 F350 SRW. Ive already checked on airbags for just for some added peace of mind. The truck will not be overweight its just that I dont want to be that close to my max. We never dry camp so I will only be carrying minimum water in the fresh tank for a emergency roadside stop. I just like your weight pics a lot more than the numbers they put out. Thats really the only thing that has been holding me back.

Campfire, I also have an 06 F350 SRW towing a 2012 365SAQ. I'd be glad to share/chat my towing weights, etc. if you'd like. I did out air bags on and run them around 70psi with the camper on.

[kraftchick]

Rufinit, can you give some info on where you found that support you use for the flip down bunk? I currently use a jack stand when we need to use the flip down, I'd definitely like something permanently attached and lighter.

[Rufinit]

Here you go Amazon.com: Camco 43671 RV Self-Stor Step: Automotive

[5erDriver]

Hi guys

I pull ours, a 2013, with an '08 Super Duty 6.4L SRW long bed. It pulls great. We all know they are a heavy unit. Mine is 12,727 dry. From a standing start it takes a little to get rolling, they all mostly do, but cruising is a breeze. Tows beautifully. I don't have airbags and find the pin weight well with the 350's capability. I'm sure airbags would be a nice addition tho and I have never had them so cant compare but the camper doesn't labor the springs too much. I recently put a programmer in the truck and an S&B cold air intake so I've been playing a little with the programmer to tow to see what works best. I'll let you know.
About the folding bunk. Outs has a 2x2 aluminum frame. I know this cause we mistakenly put the slides in while it was down. OOOPS! Never assume the other half has done final check and vise versa. Buckled up one corner a bit and split the plywood on the underside hence knowing what the framing is. It was somewhat of a blessing in disguise. I fixed the framing with angle brackets and self tappers and reglued the top plywood to the framing using PL premium urethane and flathead self tappers. Same on the bottom. The factory glue wasn't great. Also put a small angle bracket on the inside corners of the leather covered trim pieces, on the mattress side, and used a few short screws through them. It really strengthened the whole thing up. Addition of a leg or jack would help I'm sure. Maybe when the kid gets heavier. Lol.
Good to hear the upgrades and mods. I did a few. I did also add about 20ft of blue LED strip lights to the awning roller just above the slot. They reflect on the white and illuminate the whole side but don't get your eyes. Turns a lot of heads.

[Rufinit]

So here is another tip. In my camper I don't have a switch for the electric water heater in the control panel. I had to go outside and turn on the switch. I can't believe in this camper they don't include the switch. I was just in Hill City SD and I was next to a new Sierra 365SAQ and he didn't have a switch either.

[KenNJ1]

Originally Posted by Rufinit

So here is another tip. In my camper I don't have a switch for the electric water heater in the control panel. I had to go outside and turn on the switch. I can't believe in this camper they don't include the switch. I was just in Hill City SD and I was next to a new Sierra 365SAQ and he didn't have a switch either.

What I did was turn on the switch outside once. Inside there is a on off switch in your panel to turn on or off the propane heat option. If you turn the propane switch on the electrical heating element will not engage because you have the propane option on. Turn off the propane switch and the electric element will turn on automatically when needed. This why I believe there is only one switch inside. The setup works great for our 2014 SAQ 365 Sandpiper.

[Rufinit]

I just flip the breaker in the main panel. In most other campers I have seen they have both switches in the control panel. I dry camp 98% of the time a run off a generator most of the time and the electric element is not a option.

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by KenNJ1

What I did was turn on the switch outside once. Inside there is a on off switch in your panel to turn on or off the propane heat option. If you turn the propane switch on the electrical heating element will not engage because you have the propane option on. Turn off the propane switch and the electric element will turn on automatically when needed. This why I believe there is only one switch inside. The setup works great for our 2014 SAQ 365 Sandpiper.

Yours must be different than mine. Mine will run off both at the same time for a rapid recovery rate. If I want just propane I have to turn the switch off outside or turn off the propane switch inside if I want just electric., with the switch on outside.