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Old 06-04-2013, 06:48 PM   #31
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Couple of more projects done.
I mounted a 8" pvc pipe under the camper using uni strut to hold my rug.


I also needed to add a support to the bottom bunk. I found this support for the bottom step of the entry steps.

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Old 06-04-2013, 09:32 PM   #32
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I have the same 8" pipe to put under mine. Going to put my awning poles in it. Just haven't taken the time since the weather turned nice. Good job!
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:43 AM   #33
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I know the brochure says dry weight of 12,800 and honestly that has me a little nervous. I'l be towing with a 2006 F350 SRW. Ive already checked on airbags for just for some added peace of mind. The truck will not be overweight its just that I dont want to be that close to my max. We never dry camp so I will only be carrying minimum water in the fresh tank for a emergency roadside stop. I just like your weight pics a lot more than the numbers they put out. Thats really the only thing that has been holding me back.
Campfire, I also have an 06 F350 SRW towing a 2012 365SAQ. I'd be glad to share/chat my towing weights, etc. if you'd like. I did out air bags on and run them around 70psi with the camper on.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:56 AM   #34
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Rufinit, can you give some info on where you found that support you use for the flip down bunk? I currently use a jack stand when we need to use the flip down, I'd definitely like something permanently attached and lighter.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:59 PM   #35
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Here you go Amazon.com: Camco 43671 RV Self-Stor Step: Automotive
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:01 PM   #36
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Hi guys

I pull ours, a 2013, with an '08 Super Duty 6.4L SRW long bed. It pulls great. We all know they are a heavy unit. Mine is 12,727 dry. From a standing start it takes a little to get rolling, they all mostly do, but cruising is a breeze. Tows beautifully. I don't have airbags and find the pin weight well with the 350's capability. I'm sure airbags would be a nice addition tho and I have never had them so cant compare but the camper doesn't labor the springs too much. I recently put a programmer in the truck and an S&B cold air intake so I've been playing a little with the programmer to tow to see what works best. I'll let you know.
About the folding bunk. Outs has a 2x2 aluminum frame. I know this cause we mistakenly put the slides in while it was down. OOOPS! Never assume the other half has done final check and vise versa. Buckled up one corner a bit and split the plywood on the underside hence knowing what the framing is. It was somewhat of a blessing in disguise. I fixed the framing with angle brackets and self tappers and reglued the top plywood to the framing using PL premium urethane and flathead self tappers. Same on the bottom. The factory glue wasn't great. Also put a small angle bracket on the inside corners of the leather covered trim pieces, on the mattress side, and used a few short screws through them. It really strengthened the whole thing up. Addition of a leg or jack would help I'm sure. Maybe when the kid gets heavier. Lol.
Good to hear the upgrades and mods. I did a few. I did also add about 20ft of blue LED strip lights to the awning roller just above the slot. They reflect on the white and illuminate the whole side but don't get your eyes. Turns a lot of heads.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:27 AM   #37
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So here is another tip. In my camper I don't have a switch for the electric water heater in the control panel. I had to go outside and turn on the switch. I can't believe in this camper they don't include the switch. I was just in Hill City SD and I was next to a new Sierra 365SAQ and he didn't have a switch either.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:48 PM   #38
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So here is another tip. In my camper I don't have a switch for the electric water heater in the control panel. I had to go outside and turn on the switch. I can't believe in this camper they don't include the switch. I was just in Hill City SD and I was next to a new Sierra 365SAQ and he didn't have a switch either.
What I did was turn on the switch outside once. Inside there is a on off switch in your panel to turn on or off the propane heat option. If you turn the propane switch on the electrical heating element will not engage because you have the propane option on. Turn off the propane switch and the electric element will turn on automatically when needed. This why I believe there is only one switch inside. The setup works great for our 2014 SAQ 365 Sandpiper.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:58 PM   #39
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I just flip the breaker in the main panel. In most other campers I have seen they have both switches in the control panel. I dry camp 98% of the time a run off a generator most of the time and the electric element is not a option.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:26 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by KenNJ1 View Post

What I did was turn on the switch outside once. Inside there is a on off switch in your panel to turn on or off the propane heat option. If you turn the propane switch on the electrical heating element will not engage because you have the propane option on. Turn off the propane switch and the electric element will turn on automatically when needed. This why I believe there is only one switch inside. The setup works great for our 2014 SAQ 365 Sandpiper.
Yours must be different than mine. Mine will run off both at the same time for a rapid recovery rate. If I want just propane I have to turn the switch off outside or turn off the propane switch inside if I want just electric., with the switch on outside.
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