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02-25-2016, 03:53 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Omaha
Posts: 112
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Stabilizing at a Year-Round Spot
I have seen some comprehensive threads with opinions about stabilization. Many had the various aftermarket or home made cross brace type stabilizers. I was curious if anyone had suggestions on the best way to stabilize at a permanent spot? since I don't have to worry about "easy of deploy/take down", should I look at something different?
Also, I opted not to get the 6 point auto-level since I will level once and forget it. However, I talked to someone who has it and said his 5'er is quite stable with it. I hesitate a bit due to price ($2900 MSRP), as well as the extra hydraulics that I would rather not maintain. I assume I will periodically have to "relevel" as the hydraulics move or ground settles. One reason I would contemplate getting it would be resale value as it seems like a godsend for anyone going on weekend campouts.
So, what are your thoughts? just a bunch of screw jacks? Concrete blocks? Slideout stabilizers? Etc?
BTW: My camper is on order and I don't think has started to be built yet so I could modify the order if needed. Its a 381RBOK.
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Jay
TV:2012 Tahoe
TT: 2012 Grey Wolf 25MB
Other Ride: 2006 Harley Ultra Classic
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02-25-2016, 04:03 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
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We've always used cinder blocks and some wood shims. That way when the blocks inevitably sink into the ground, you can just push the shims in a little more to tighten them up.
Just don't put them under the slides.
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02-25-2016, 04:05 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Buy 1 big hyd jack and rent 1! Buy a Bunch of solid cement blocks and some 1x8x16 treated wood and a bundle of large wood shims! With the help of several friends start the Support Group on your frame! Youroo!!
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02-25-2016, 04:13 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
Buy 1 big hyd jack and rent 1! Buy a Bunch of solid cement blocks and some 1x8x16 treated wood and a bundle of large wood shims! With the help of several friends start the Support Group on your frame! Youroo!!
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I agree with most of that but what would the jacks be used for?
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02-25-2016, 04:15 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 260
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Jeez Louise just get the 6 point hydraulic self leveling and be done with it. You may want to pull up FAST and leave. See videos of Louisiana RV park after Tornado.
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02-25-2016, 04:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
I agree with most of that but what would the jacks be used for?
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When you need More than "Push the shim in" a jack is needed! Youroo!!
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02-25-2016, 07:15 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: W-S NC
Posts: 441
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Having only had possession of ours for less than a week, I don't have allot of experience. However, I have noticed in the short time that the level up system does an awesome job at what its name implies and an average job at providing stability. Movements in the middle of the camper to the front don't create allot of camper shake, but movements in the bunk house create more shake than I was expecting. I think it would have made more sense to put the rear jacks closer to the back of the camper as opposed to just behind the rear axles.
If I were to do it all over again, I would still get the level up. I would just lower my expectations for its ability to stabilize.
I have only setup once (so far) but it was just as easy as the DP we had before. Push the buttons and walk away! Love it.
2016 Sandpiper 376BHOK
2500HD Chevrolet
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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02-25-2016, 07:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 13,709
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We had our dealer install JT Strongarms on all 4 corners before they delivered the unit to our seasonal site. Very happy with the stabilization they provide.
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02-25-2016, 07:50 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Ga.
Posts: 420
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I Have a new set of JT Strongarms never installed for sale very reasonable but, I don't know about shipping them because they are pretty heavy. If anyone is interested, I'm in N. GA. and they can send me a PM.
Good luck with what ever you decide!
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02-26-2016, 08:58 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 41
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If you are serious about staying on a permanent site for a couple of years or more, concrete blocks are the way to go. Why ever consider spending big bucks on a stabilizing system if you are staying put?
I have a Wildwood DLX 39fden 10,000 lb. unit set up permanent. It is blocked on each frame corner and on the front and back sides of the axles for a total of eight piers of blocks. On the bottom of each pier is a solid 4" block with 2 regular concrete blocks stacked on top. On top of the concrete blocks I have 18" lengths of treated lumber pieces to get close to the frame and then wood shims to get it tight.
One or (preferably) two heavy duty jacks are needed to assist in lifting the frame slightly to get the piers set under at just the right height. I use an 8 ton bottle jack (cheap at Harbor Freight maybe $30). Forget the 2 ton floor jacks. You will need a serious 4-5 ton quality floor jack to lift the frame on a large camper.
Just make sure to use a level when setting the solid base block and have adequate jacking power and it is not a big deal. With the same jacks you can be off the blocks quite quickly too when you need to pull out. On permanent sites it is usually the other attached stuff like screen rooms, decks, etc that make it hard to move.
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03-01-2016, 06:33 AM
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#11
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MCTroy
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Troy.Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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We struggle every year with setting our camper on our summer site. We are set June through October but if the old creek floods we have to pull out. Using just the jacks to stabilize is hard as there is a slight tilt towards the creek. The concrete blocks sound like a good idea and we could still pull out quickly if needed. There were posts that spoke of putting the blocks on the frame but pics of blocks under the jacks. I am thinking frame would be better but I don't want to twist it. We already bent one Jack foot last year because the base under the foot wasnt level...
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2015 Windjammer 3029 Diamond Edition
2018 Ram 2500
Ohio River Rat
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03-01-2016, 11:17 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCTroy
There were posts that spoke of putting the blocks on the frame but pics of blocks under the jacks. I am thinking frame would be better but I don't want to twist it. We already bent one Jack foot last year because the base under the foot wasnt level...
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I've seen both but I personally put all my blocks under the frame. On my previous trailer I didn't even have the stabilizer jacks down at all.
Others have mentioned needing jacks to lift the trailer up before putting the blocks under but I've never needed one. Once the trailer is level, you are just putting the blocks/wood/shims under it to hold it in place.
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03-01-2016, 11:35 AM
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#13
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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When I had my 5er at a seasonal site (we also pulled out and traveled some) I used concrete blocks under the stabilizers and in front and behind the wheels with screw jacks. Was very steady, and easy to do. When I did pull out, I only had to move the blocks in front of the wheels. The screw jacks also made it easy to adjust for settling.
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2016 Georgetown 364TS
2017 Jeep Rubicon Recon toad
Nights Camped 2019 - 17
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07-04-2018, 10:18 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Byron, MN
Posts: 24
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Never done the permanent thing. Can someone explain why blocks are needed and not just use the campers stabilizers as you would for a week or 2 trip?
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07-04-2018, 10:42 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J
Never done the permanent thing. Can someone explain why blocks are needed and not just use the campers stabilizers as you would for a week or 2 trip?
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Not really necessary. It just depends on the level of stability you require, and the lengths you will go to attain it
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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07-05-2018, 01:22 PM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J
Never done the permanent thing. Can someone explain why blocks are needed and not just use the campers stabilizers as you would for a week or 2 trip?
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The stabilizers still allow a lot of bounce when walking around the trailer. If you don't plan on moving it anytime soon, you might as well make it as sturdy and stable as you can.
This is what my blocks look like. It doesn't move much at all.
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07-08-2018, 08:44 PM
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#17
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Coach
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Western PA
Posts: 667
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We're not on a permanent site, but we've found the level up system feels pretty stable. Using a set of xchocks has relieved most of the bounce from behind the rear jacks others have mentioned.
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Cut it 3 times and it's still too short...
2017 Sandpiper 381RBOK
2006 Ram 3500 Cummins Dually
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07-08-2018, 08:54 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCTroy
We struggle every year with setting our camper on our summer site. We are set June through October but if the old creek floods we have to pull out. Using just the jacks to stabilize is hard as there is a slight tilt towards the creek. The concrete blocks sound like a good idea and we could still pull out quickly if needed. There were posts that spoke of putting the blocks on the frame but pics of blocks under the jacks. I am thinking frame would be better but I don't want to twist it. We already bent one Jack foot last year because the base under the foot wasnt level...
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You are not trying to lift or level the trailer with the stabilizer jacks ? Just wondering how you bent a foot.
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2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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