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Old 09-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugged Brown

What size is the lugnut?
You know I'm not sure.......
I just grabbed one out the socket rail (thin wall snap-on ) and it fit . I surely can look tonight if needed.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:21 PM   #12
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Be aware of the manufacturer installed tire rating. I have quickly determined that Forest River seems notorious for equipping the units with the bare minimum requirements, so be sure to confirm the rating of the tires on your units. My recent purchase of the VCROSS 6504 is a prime example. The dry weight of the trailer is 3400 lbs. The rating on the Triangle ST 14 inch tires is 1700 lbs each which provides the bare minimum weight rating for a single axle trailer. I am going to be quick to upgrade my tires.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:27 PM   #13
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My lug nuts are 13/16" and I bought a thin wall socket from one of the big box hardware stores. Can't remember if it was Lowe's, Home Depot, or Sutherlands.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:40 PM   #14
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David, I had to replace on the road as the three tires occurred at different times so I basically had to take what was in stock at each location. Two of the tires are Load D (one step up) and one is a Hercules and the other a Goodyear Marathon. The third tire is a Load E and it is a Carlisle. All of these are Chinese as well but as I said, I had to take what is available. All are mounted on the OE rims.

I stopped after work at my local tire dealer whom I have always used and trust. He said I could run mixed Load rated tires but not his first choice. He recommends the E just for piece of mind but says the D's should do the job. I am running the trailer into him on Saturday and getting two more D tires and will put all the D's to the ground. I will move the E to the spare (that's another story) and all the Load C's tires will be out of my life.

As for the spare--if you have never removed yours from the factory mount--make sure you can get it off. I went to pull my spare (has never been removed since buying the trailer in May 2011) and couldn't because the lug nuts were cross threaded. It took the roadside service guy cranking up his impact wrench and he broke the mounting bolts. An easy fix but a pain in the a** when you are stuck on the shoulder of I-80 in the middle of Nebraska.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:43 PM   #15
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My question is if you move to one load range higher,which logically I assume means you can increase the psi on the new tire,do you not also have to change the steel wheel itself to match that rating?
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by RattVader
My question is if you move to one load range higher,which logically I assume means you can increase the psi on the new tire,do you not also have to change the steel wheel itself to match that rating?
Depends on the rating on the wheel.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:47 PM   #17
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Sorry for the consecutive posts but a P.S. My tire dealer quoted a $10 difference between load rated tires. So for $100 (probably less because Forest River can buy bulk) you can go from a Load C to a Load E on a five tire trailer set up. Small investment and not a deal breaker when buying a trailer just for piece of mind. I'll have that $100 difference spent in parts to repair the damage for shredding tires. Let alone a possible accident or death.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Old car View Post
David, I had to replace on the road as the three tires occurred at different times so I basically had to take what was in stock at each location.

Exactly the same here. Blew the first, the second went 25 miles down the road, the third just 35 miles from home. A 5 hour trip took 14 hours. What a horrible day.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:58 PM   #19
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How old were your tires???
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:04 PM   #20
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Less than 3 years old. The had a born on date (DOT code) of 3409 (34th week of 2009). And I also checked mine before I left, and before I left the campground. And after each blowout.
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