trailer mishap

[RKR]

Sounds like making a bed saver might be a fun off season weekend project.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by tone100

So is the general consensus to go with Butch's latch vs the blue ox bedsaver? Butch's is about $80 shipped. The blue ox is close to $240.

There isn't a consensus - it depends on the level of protection you want. Fully automatic is the blue ox - it doesn't need to be engaged to catch the pin. The Butch's kit is a fraction of the price but needs to be engaged (it's obvious when it isn't engaged).

Neither is "better" per say - just 2 different approaches to the same problem.

[OL Creeker]

We have Progressive - wouldn't change for the world! They were at our site within 24 hrs of our call. Yep, the tug test is important. But that makes me a bit apprehensive. I calm down when I know we've done it correctly. Nobody asked about this, but when I tow, I never exceed the caution speeds posted on curves!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by OL Creeker

We have Progressive - wouldn't change for the world! They were at our site within 24 hrs of our call. Yep, the tug test is important. But that makes me a bit apprehensive. I calm down when I know we've done it correctly. Nobody asked about this, but when I tow, I never exceed the caution speeds posted on curves!

Why would you be apprehensive, just raise the jacks about 1/16" off the ground. Do you have either of the mentioned bed savers?

[LKicklight]

Kind of depends what kind of surface you may be on, if on soft dirt, then 1/2 inch's in acceptable, on concrete or hard ground, 1" would work better, then again, if you have a safety lock, you really do not need to worry about either condition: So far we have had no problems since installing the Butch's Safety Pin Device:


[QUOTE=OldCoot;515183]

Originally Posted by LKicklight

...we did try to pull forward with the front legs still extended about 2" off the ground, they caught the 5'er and did not damage.../QUOTE]

IMO, 2" is too much to raise the legs to do a pull test. You are subjecting the jacks to a 1000#-2000# shock load they are not designed to take in case the trailer is dropped. Just raise them enough to clear the ground.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by LKicklight

Kind of depends what kind of surface you may be on, if on soft dirt, then 1/2 inch's in acceptable, on concrete or hard ground, 1" would work better, then again, if you have a safety lock, you really do not need to worry about either condition: So far we have had no problems since installing the Butch's Safety Pin Device

Regardless of the surface, I just raise the jacks enough to just clear the surface. The jacks are not designed for shock loads. I agree with the premise that with a safety lock like Butch's prevents the possibility of dropping on the truck bed or the jacks.

[AquaMan]

I find it odd that of the 3 experiences of dropped trailers mentioned here are all using the same hitch, Husky. I check my hitch a couple of times as I do my loading. It's either engaged or it isn't. As for a bedsaver, I don't feel I need it, especially one that I have to manually install. If I'm going to that trouble, I'm going to the trouble of making sure I'm hitched properly. As for the raising hydraulic gear for a pull test, raise them until the lowest one is just barely off the ground, then lower the gear. The high one will lower first and you can stop it at the same point as the other, just off the ground.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

I find it odd that of the 3 experiences of dropped trailers mentioned here are all using the same hitch, Husky. I check my hitch a couple of times as I do my loading. It's either engaged or it isn't. As for a bedsaver, I don't feel I need it, especially one that I have to manually install. If I'm going to that trouble, I'm going to the trouble of making sure I'm hitched properly. As for the raising hydraulic gear for a pull test, raise them until the lowest one is just barely off the ground, then lower the gear. The high one will lower first and you can stop it at the same point as the other, just off the ground.

I agree it is strange that it has been 3 Husky hitches. My handle dropped down and my pop out 1'2" rod popped out showing it was closed. I looked at the locking part, If your pin the bottom hits the plate even if you are above the jaws it closes. I now due the pull test twice with the legs just off the ground enough to move the unit and clear the ground only. And painted the lock plate bright Yellow so I can see the bar closed and pin is behind it, couldn't tell before all looked the same, Now I can see the bar and the pin easily.

[LKicklight]

That is why I have a Safety Pin on my hitch plate. With the Husky suspect of not locking in correctly, who is to say it want come loose while under being towed. With the Butch Safety Pin installed, feel as though I am well protected, just in case it happeens to come loose, just saying!

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

I agree it is strange that it has been 3 Husky hitches. My handle dropped down and my pop out 1'2" rod popped out showing it was closed. I looked at the locking part, If your pin the bottom hits the plate even if you are above the jaws it closes. I now due the pull test twice with the legs just off the ground enough to move the unit and clear the ground only. And painted the lock plate bright Yellow so I can see the bar closed and pin is behind it, couldn't tell before all looked the same, Now I can see the bar and the pin easily.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by LKicklight

That is why I have a Safety Pin on my hitch plate. With the Husky suspect of not locking in correctly, who is to say it want come loose while under being towed. With the Butch Safety Pin installed, feel as though I am well protected, just in case it happeens to come loose, just saying!

I understand what you are saying, Mine was just a rookie mistake, Once you learn you realize what to do. For sure I know it will not happen when in tow. For one it is impossible to open the jaws when the pressure of the pin is against it. I read here on this forum about some smart A-- pulled his arm open while he eating in a restaurant. I think it was a Reese hitch. You will not open a Husky that way. I have to relieve all pressure off the latch before it will open and the only way to do that block your wheels and back up to move the pin forward. My check list just keeps growing. Never had another problem with it since. I guess you can call it learning curve. Now if I can just remember to lower my TV antenna.....

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by oldcoot

sure makes sense to me, you have to get out to hook up the electrical cord, emergency brake cable, so you just insert the rod. I can do that a lot of times for $160 and butch's doesn't take up any room in the bed.

x2 -

[Lloydg]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

For one it is impossible to open the jaws when the pressure of the pin is against it. I read here on this forum about some smart A-- pulled his arm open while he eating in a restaurant. I think it was a Reese hitch. You will not open a Husky that way. I have to relieve all pressure off the latch before it will open and the only way to do that block your wheels and back up to move the pin forward. My check list just keeps growing. :

I have a Reese 18K Elite Slider hitch and 9 times out of 10, I need to release pressure on the pin before I can release the handle. Even though It's highly unlikely that some butt-head would be able to release the pin during my absence, I substitute a cable gun lock for the safety pin to prevent someone from messing with it.

[tone100]

Let me throw something out here and see if its normal. Everyone says to raise the jacks just enough to clear the ground and then pull forward to make sure the trailer it hitched firmly. When I lower my hydraulic landing gear one side goes down and as soon as any force is applied towards the ground the other starts to lower and they lift equally. Basically the same in reverse. Is this normal? Makes it hard to lift the jacks off the ground evenly for the test.

[LKicklight]

Let me throw something back at you, when you get the legs off the ground, say enough to place a piece of 2x under each leg, then let them back down just enough so at least one leg is just off the board, that should give you a pretty good equal distance under each leg?

Originally Posted by tone100

Let me throw something out here and see if its normal. Everyone says to raise the jacks just enough to clear the ground and then pull forward to make sure the trailer it hitched firmly. When I lower my hydraulic landing gear one side goes down and as soon as any force is applied towards the ground the other starts to lower and they lift equally. Basically the same in reverse. Is this normal? Makes it hard to lift the jacks off the ground evenly for the test.

[tone100]

I still think there would be a couple inches difference between the two. Do I even need to lift them or would that bend the jacks pulling forward? Seems like holding the trailer brake would keep the stress off the jacks but I could be wrong.

[tone100]

Forgot to add that I looked over the trailer and I don't see any damage. I might still get the insurance company to come look at it to be sure. I wish my truck came out the same.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by tone100

I still think there would be a couple inches difference between the two. Do I even need to lift them or would that bend the jacks pulling forward? Seems like holding the trailer brake would keep the stress off the jacks but I could be wrong.

The trailer wheels have to turn to engage the brakes and therefore you will bend the jacks.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The trailer wheels have to turn to engage the brakes and therefore you will bend the jacks.

X'S 2 the OLD Goat is right on this one.....

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by tone100

Let me throw something out here and see if its normal. Everyone says to raise the jacks just enough to clear the ground and then pull forward to make sure the trailer it hitched firmly. When I lower my hydraulic landing gear one side goes down and as soon as any force is applied towards the ground the other starts to lower and they lift equally. Basically the same in reverse. Is this normal? Makes it hard to lift the jacks off the ground evenly for the test.

On mine, the side closest to the pump works first, although both are released from the ground a little, I raise until until the lowest one is about 1" or so off ground, then lower gear. The high side comes down first and I stop when it's just off the ground. Even if they are unequal, if you would happen to drop they would equal out from the weight being applied.