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Old 08-25-2015, 07:29 PM   #11
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2013 365saq here rear axle is bent and forest river is ignoring my emails I have 1000KM left to go home and inside of the tires are wearing excessively it seems to me that FR won't be happy until they kill someone

My issues started with noticing that the braking was not good and doing a bit of searching on the forums here and by God I am not alone

I was at my dealer this morning and they took pictures to send to forest river them self (which I have done and been ignored) funny thing is the dealer said they will most likely get the same treatment

I looked around the parking lot and ALL of there new models have 8 lug 7000 LBS axles in them

Biggest issue I have is I am on Canada and transport Canada is a lot slower then NTSB on the US

It is pretty sad when you spend that kind of money and your trailer is only good for 5000KM then you need to park it
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:49 PM   #12
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Send Transport Canada the links to the threads, stories and emails from here in the states. They may be slower to respond, but once they see that there definitely is a problem, maybe they will react at a more acceptable pace. Good luck and please keep us informed.
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:13 PM   #13
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Got approved today for 7000# axles just need to check the frame

Hopefully frame is ok
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:11 PM   #14
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Got approved today for 7000# axles just need to check the frame

Hopefully frame is ok
Check the cross-members just in front of and just behind the axles..... It's a bit tough to inspect without dropping the underbelly, but if you or someone you know has a small space inspection camera that would get the job done. Check for bends and slipped welds and check the round bar laticing for broken bars.

Let us know what you find....
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:03 AM   #15
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what kind of mileage do you guys have on your units when finding the cross-members bent? I am at about 5200 Miles now got my trailer back in my seasonal park now and am waiting for the axles to arrive before I pull down the underbelly

got a bore camera that I may try to get in there this weekend to have a look
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:23 PM   #16
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So.... for those of you following along. I've been in ongoing discussion with Lippert and FR to resolve this issue. I received a call today from Lippert and they are sending a technician / welder to my house in NJ from their facility in Indiana. Not only did the CSR at Lippert call me, but the technician himself called to explain the work he'll be performing. The current plan is to remove the existing damaged cross-members (angle iron and round bar latticing) and replace with new cross-members made with 2x2 steel tubing. Additionally, they plan to add some cross-members (of the 2x2 variety) to reinforce other areas of the frame.

The new cross-members sound significantly heavier (stronger) than the old ones. I'll post pics before closing up the underbelly. Big thanks to Lippert for standing behind this and sending someone half way across the country to ensure it gets fixed right.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:39 AM   #17
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Nothing to exciting yet, but as promised a technician from Lippert did show up at my house this morning and begin to weld in new cross-members and inspect and repair any additional issues that I may not have seen. Full report to follow once its done.... I did pick up some interesting information though... Mind you this is not a placement of blame to any business or entity, just a statement of fact that I picked up today....

Often times when a frame is damaged in a manner such as this one it occurs because of an inability to flex. Axles generally have a fair amount of flex in them, that's how they're designed. When axles are overloaded though they lose their ability to flex. The force being exerted by hard turns such as sharp driveway exits or sharp angles into campsites must be absorbed somewhere though. When an axle can no longer flex it is common for the frame to begin to flex more than it was designed to do and when the frame flexes the weaker components (cross-members v. I-Beams) will only flex so many times before they break - think about bending a wire coat hanger back and forth. In a properly configured trailer all of these components give a little, but when any one of those components is unable to flex as required the extra stress breaks things.

That was a lesson I learned this morning, speaking in completely generalized terms. More specifically though I was reassured that in my current configuration (7k axles) that I should have no further frame / tow-ability issues once my repairs are complete.

Pics of the repairs to follow once complete. For now, proof that Lippert cares enough about their products to send someone from Indiana to New Jersey to personally address the problems. Problems I still believe were the results of decisions made by FR, yet Lippert is still taking on the responsibility of making it right.
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:10 PM   #18
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I'm not engineer, but this logic seems flawed to me.

In my mind heavier "stiffer" axles would cause more issues then lighter more flexible axles.

The frame flex imo is going to flex or not flex about the same regardless of 6k or 7k axles.




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Old 09-09-2015, 12:17 PM   #19
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I'm not engineer, but this logic seems flawed to me.

In my mind heavier "stiffer" axles would cause more issues then lighter more flexible axles.

The frame flex imo is going to flex or not flex about the same regardless of 6k or 7k axles.
I'm not an engineer either, but that's the explanation I was given. Over time the inability of the axles to flex (as they were maxed out) led to the bent axle and busted up frame; as it was explained to me. I'm just a cyber security guy though so, at least for now, I'm going to defer to that which was explained to me by a man that repairs these units for a living....
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:33 PM   #20
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So the fix is done and the Lippert Tech has packed up and started the long drive back to Indiana. As it's damn hot right now and due to that and the vast amounts of wet paint under the trailer I only have few pics, but the final repair is as follows:

(1) Remove, straighten, and reinstall the existing cross-members that were damaged.

(2) Add three [3] cross-members made from 2x2 steel box tubing. Welded to the lower part of the I-Beam and gusseted with 8x8x.25 steel.
{1 representative pic}

(3) Add 2x2 steel box tubing cross-bar between middle spring hangers. This will remain exposed, below the underbelly.
{1 representative pic}

(4) Paint everything to deter rust

All I need to do now is reinstall the underbelly, go camping, and see how it holds up this time around..... we'll call this 'Take 3'....
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