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Old 03-18-2015, 10:29 AM   #41
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ahhhh...pretty easy to see Andersens motivation here. Get away from all the torque loads with the ranch hitch adapter. Get 9.5" offset for shortbed trucks. get a ball/coupler hook up a driver can see.
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:27 PM   #42
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Used to race alot in Canada, pulling a 5th wheel style trailer, but using a flip-over ball in the deck of a 2 ton International truck. On 1 trip to Vancouver Island, when paying at the ferry terminal, we were directed to an inspection line. Got held up for no safety chains and defective breakaway switch. Been going that way alot, so it just goes to show, if chains were present, might of been home free,
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:20 PM   #43
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Replying to Mr. Dan:

A couple of issues you pointed out deserve some clarity from me.

You are correct on the 180 adapter turn. I was indeed talking about the aluminum block that attaches to the King Pin. I said turning it moved the cab 4" closer, nope! You are right, it moves it 8" closer (4" forward flips to 4" backward, net is 8").

On the second point about moving the Andersen ball relative to the axle. It's not the 180 pivot of the Andersen king pin adapter that accomplishes moving the Andersen ball up top of the frame (You were correct in that observation). I should have been clearer that I am changing out the lower in-truck-bed ball that the Ultimate frame attaches to. Andersen only recommends reversing the entire pyramid frame for 8' Long Bed trucks that have plenty of cab clearance. Even though the frame label says "This way toward cab", if you call Andersen they'll tell you the design supports reverse just fine, but ONLY for long bed trucks. I have a double cab and the 6.6' standard bed so I will not be turning the frame around.

I'm replacing my GMC Curt double lock hitches' factory standard double-lock ball with a replacement "Curt 4 inch Offset Ball for Double-Lock Gooseneck Hitch". The offset plate moves the bed ball position back toward the tailgate. Basically, this will shift the entire Ultimate frame back 4".

If you consider the combination of my two changes, first the adapter 180 moves the trailer nose 8" closer to the cab (bad thing ;-) and second, the Curt offset extension recovers back 4" of that 8" move (good thing).

In the end, I'll still be a net 4" closer to the cab but my initial measures looked like I had more than 12" to play with. The new Curt ball should arrive sometime next week and when I actually get these changes done, I'll do a 90 degree jack and measure to be sure (and I'll report back).

For now, the parts are on order and that's my plan. The Grand Design fellow was successful with this move and I'm hoping I will be too.

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Maxxis 16" E; Ride Rite AirBags w/AirLift 1 wireless compr; Adv.Folding 4 Cover Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset ball LCI Ground Control 3.0 4pt + 2pt Elec.Rear stabilizers; 3 Slidecovers; 10ft. Portabote 6000# Dexters; mor/Ryde CRE3000 w/HD Wetbolts; King Dish Tailgater; 5hp Outboard Dual A/C; Furrion 48 Rear Camera; Champion 3100 Inverter w/Extended Run
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:25 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbillsmith View Post
Replying to Mr. Dan:

A couple of issues you pointed out deserve some clarity from me.

You are correct on the 180 adapter turn. I was indeed talking about the aluminum block that attaches to the King Pin. I said turning it moved the cab 4" closer, nope! You are right, it moves it 8" closer (4" forward flips to 4" backward, net is 8").

On the second point about moving the Andersen ball relative to the axle. It's not the 180 pivot of the Andersen king pin adapter that accomplishes moving the Andersen ball up top of the frame (You were correct in that observation). I should have been clearer that I am changing out the lower in-truck-bed ball that the Ultimate frame attaches to. Andersen only recommends reversing the entire pyramid frame for 8' Long Bed trucks that have plenty of cab clearance. Even though the frame label says "This way toward cab", if you call Andersen they'll tell you the design supports reverse just fine, but ONLY for long bed trucks. I have a double cab and the 6.6' standard bed so I will not be turning the frame around.

I'm replacing my GMC Curt double lock hitches' factory standard double-lock ball with a replacement "Curt 4 inch Offset Ball for Double-Lock Gooseneck Hitch". The offset plate moves the bed ball position back toward the tailgate. Basically, this will shift the entire Ultimate frame back 4".

If you consider the combination of my two changes, first the adapter 180 moves the trailer nose 8" closer to the cab (bad thing ;-) and second, the Curt offset extension recovers back 4" of that 8" move (good thing).

In the end, I'll still be a net 4" closer to the cab but my initial measures looked like I had more than 12" to play with. The new Curt ball should arrive sometime next week and when I actually get these changes done, I'll do a 90 degree jack and measure to be sure (and I'll report back).

For now, the parts are on order and that's my plan. The Grand Design fellow was successful with this move and I'm hoping I will be too.

hbillsmith, thanks for setting the record straight. You've confirmed how I saw things. I think you're on to something for a plan for your operation. However, I'm not sure where I'll go next. I have sent up a test balloon for info. on my specific situation.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:46 AM   #45
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Prior to buying the 2016 Wildcat 295rsx, I was seriously considering an Open Range Light and even then I had settled on choosing the Andersen Hitch. I joined a long thread on the OR site regarding the Andersen. In that thread, forum member "handirifle" responded to some of my questions and also included his reasoning and pictures related to positioning an Andersen Ultimate with an Offset ball. Here's the link for those interested.

Open Range RV Owners Forum • View topic - Anderson Ultimate 5th wheel

PS. If you followed my previous entries in this thread, earlier I incorrectly referenced Andersen info from a user in the Grand Design forum. I went back and searched and sure enough it was a user in the Open Range forum, not Grand Design. The link above is the correct one. I wasn't allowed to edit/correct the older message so I'm sorry if it caused any google-angst.


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Maxxis 16" E; Ride Rite AirBags w/AirLift 1 wireless compr; Adv.Folding 4 Cover Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset ball LCI Ground Control 3.0 4pt + 2pt Elec.Rear stabilizers; 3 Slidecovers; 10ft. Portabote 6000# Dexters; mor/Ryde CRE3000 w/HD Wetbolts; King Dish Tailgater; 5hp Outboard Dual A/C; Furrion 48 Rear Camera; Champion 3100 Inverter w/Extended Run
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:13 AM   #46
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I installed mine so the coupler is centered with the TV rear end; I did not install the coupler forward toward to the cab so the connection (ball) is behind the TV rear end like Mr. Dan set-up or like the video on the Anderson web site. Mine is set up like "hbillsmith". My ball connection is behind the 5th wheel ball. This application distributes the weight more evenly to the TV. This is the application recommended by the RV dealer.

I get a lot of looks and question every time I'm at the campground. If I get a different TV or 5th wheel I can use this set again. The DW and I are very happy with this product.

Below are my other posts on this product.

Anderson Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection w/B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch

Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection -Rail version
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:26 PM   #47
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My Andersen Aluminum Ultimate is towing great. For my 295RSX and 2015 GMC 2500HD I wanted maximum clearance of the pinbox within the truck bed sides. After much searching, I found a solution from fellow RV'r "handirifle". He swapped his trucks flip ball for one that has a 4" offset (moves the inbed ball 4" toward the tailgate) and he combined this with the Andersen approved method of reversing the pin block adapter (the 5er drops onto the gooseball behind the pinbox's pin instead of in front). This combo puts a standard pinbox within the truck walls and only moves the trailer 4" closer to the cab. Perfect for me.

Click the following link for nice pictures that show the "handirifle" install with the Andersen Ultimate using a 4" offset ball and the Andersen Pin Box Adapter reversed, see this thread from "handirifle" on the Open Range forum. In the text he explains the logic and why this works.

Andersen Approved Method for How to Change the Pinbox Pivot Point in a Standard or Short Bed Truck
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Maxxis 16" E; Ride Rite AirBags w/AirLift 1 wireless compr; Adv.Folding 4 Cover Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset ball LCI Ground Control 3.0 4pt + 2pt Elec.Rear stabilizers; 3 Slidecovers; 10ft. Portabote 6000# Dexters; mor/Ryde CRE3000 w/HD Wetbolts; King Dish Tailgater; 5hp Outboard Dual A/C; Furrion 48 Rear Camera; Champion 3100 Inverter w/Extended Run
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:05 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by hbillsmith View Post
I saw on the Grand Design forum where an Andersen user flipped his adaptor 180deg so that the pivot point would shift on the pinbox and thus cause his entire pinbox to reside and rotate within the truck bed walls. To compensate for the resulting 4" shift of the Andersen top ball back 4" away from truck axle, he changed out his flip ball for one of the Curt bed balls that is built with a 4" extension plate.

Basically, fliping the Andersen adaptor moved pivot point and put the 5er nose 4" closer to the truck cab. The Curt ball extension reversed and negated the 4" closer to cab move.

Im going this same route. It will eliminate the pinbox added torque. It will let me use the lowest Andersen setting to bring the trailer closer to level. Lastly it remedies the chance for a pinbox to bed rail collision that could happen in an extreme jack with the Andersen in the low position.

For me, addressing this extra pin torque was just a bonus. My goal is working toward a level tow.
This thread is pretty old but I hope you guys are still around.....
Anyway I have a 2012 Ram 2500 crewcab with the rambox.
I currently have the Andersen ultimate with the B&W turnover installed on this truck.
My 2012 Keystone Cougar has the max turn corners on it so I think i could use the 4" extension and turn the fifth wheel adapter around 180°. My main question will this setup give me better clearance between the truck sidewalls and the pinbox on turns. It would be by the far the best and cheapest fix for me. Otherwise I have to remove the B&W turnover, get a new hitch with rails and a sidewinder pin box which I am not looking forward too paying for.
Any ideas or suggestions or experience with this setup up would be GREATLY appreciated.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:01 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by tuffyak View Post
This thread is pretty old but I hope you guys are still around.....
Anyway I have a 2012 Ram 2500 crewcab with the rambox.
I currently have the Andersen ultimate with the B&W turnover installed on this truck.
My 2012 Keystone Cougar has the max turn corners on it so I think i could use the 4" extension and turn the fifth wheel adapter around 180°. My main question will this setup give me better clearance between the truck sidewalls and the pinbox on turns. It would be by the far the best and cheapest fix for me. Otherwise I have to remove the B&W turnover, get a new hitch with rails and a sidewinder pin box which I am not looking forward too paying for.
Any ideas or suggestions or experience with this setup up would be GREATLY appreciated.
Follow the link in my message above to see pictures etc. I don't know the dimensions of the RAM but the principal is the same, I'd say give it a try. One correction I need to make to my post though. When you flip the Andersen kingpin adapter block, it moves the trailer nose 8" closer to the cab (not 4" as I said). It is correct that the Curt negates 4" of that though. So you still end up with your trailer nose 4" closer to the cab (no zero inches as I originally posted, 8-4=4, not 4-4=0).

As for the rotation of the trailer pin box within the walls of the truck bed, that part is correct and for me it's worked beautiful. I have on at least 3 occasions now had to do a full 90 deg. jack and although we took it very, very, very slow. I did not crush my truck cab at all (cleared by about 2 inches). Should note that those instances were in level campgrounds. I've never tried to shove the 5er in up a hill at an angle.

Last note. If you find your self in a position where angle is an issue, you can pull over, drop your trailer, reach in and raise the Andersen ball to its highest position (3" adjustment is possible) and that'll give you some pivot room. I tow at the lowest position to keep the 5er as level as I can.
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2016 Wildcat 295RSX - 2015 GMC 2500HD DblCab Duramax/Allison 4x4 Z71 6.6' Bed
Maxxis 16" E; Ride Rite AirBags w/AirLift 1 wireless compr; Adv.Folding 4 Cover Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset ball LCI Ground Control 3.0 4pt + 2pt Elec.Rear stabilizers; 3 Slidecovers; 10ft. Portabote 6000# Dexters; mor/Ryde CRE3000 w/HD Wetbolts; King Dish Tailgater; 5hp Outboard Dual A/C; Furrion 48 Rear Camera; Champion 3100 Inverter w/Extended Run
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:09 AM   #50
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I have a short bed Ram and I can 90* mine with ease.
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