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Old 01-11-2017, 10:36 AM   #1
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Plumbing diagram for 2016 Sierra 381RBOK

Hi, we just recently purchased our first RV. We're from CT but spend every weekend during the winter in VT skiing/snowboarding. I grew up camping in Springfield, VT and given they are some of the best memories I carry with me to this day I wanted my children to experience the same before they get too old and want nothing to do us...so far so good!!!!

I had the dealer I purchased the brand new leftover coach from heat wrap all 6 tanks and install a tankless hot water heater.

However, even leaving the furnace on close to 60 when we are not there during the week, we return to no running water in the kitchen and no water in the bunkhouse bathroom (toilet sink, and shower/tub).

I purchased a number of different lengths of pipe heaters that run on very low voltage and amps and have an inline thermostat that turns them on at 38 or below and off at 45 or above.

Here's my dillema: the last thing I want to do is start removing the floor beneath the underbelly to wrap the hot/cold water pex tubing but there's not a lot of (obvious/accessibe) tubing exposed so I was hoping you good folks could help in 2 ways:

1) Any suggestions on where I should focus my effort
2) Any one have a plumbing diagram for this model (I emailed Jessica in tech support at FR about 30min ago.

The campground has running water so we are hooked up at the site using a 50' heated hose; we've added an electric space heater (oil radiator type) to the bunkhouse for the kids and when we are not there we leave it on a matt in the bunkhouse bathroom with the timer set to run 2 hours on, 2 hours off around the clock...we leave the bunkhouse sink cabinet doors open to let warm air in and remove the access panel on the shower/tub in that same bathroom to do the same. We also leave the kitchen sink cabinet doors open to do the same. Finally, we leave the kitchen sink, bunkhouse sink and shower hot and cold water on a slow drip to keep things flowing.

Ok, I'll stop now and apologize for rambling.

It's great to be here!

Thanks in advance,

Peter
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:44 AM   #2
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Hi, we just recently purchased our first RV. We're from CT but spend every weekend during the winter in VT skiing/snowboarding. I grew up camping in Springfield, VT and given they are some of the best memories I carry with me to this day I wanted my children to experience the same before they get too old and want nothing to do us...so far so good!!!!



I had the dealer I purchased the brand new leftover coach from heat wrap all 6 tanks and install a tankless hot water heater.



However, even leaving the furnace on close to 60 when we are not there during the week, we return to no running water in the kitchen and no water in the bunkhouse bathroom (toilet sink, and shower/tub).



I purchased a number of different lengths of pipe heaters that run on very low voltage and amps and have an inline thermostat that turns them on at 38 or below and off at 45 or above.



Here's my dillema: the last thing I want to do is start removing the floor beneath the underbelly to wrap the hot/cold water pex tubing but there's not a lot of (obvious/accessibe) tubing exposed so I was hoping you good folks could help in 2 ways:



1) Any suggestions on where I should focus my effort

2) Any one have a plumbing diagram for this model (I emailed Jessica in tech support at FR about 30min ago.



The campground has running water so we are hooked up at the site using a 50' heated hose; we've added an electric space heater (oil radiator type) to the bunkhouse for the kids and when we are not there we leave it on a matt in the bunkhouse bathroom with the timer set to run 2 hours on, 2 hours off around the clock...we leave the bunkhouse sink cabinet doors open to let warm air in and remove the access panel on the shower/tub in that same bathroom to do the same. We also leave the kitchen sink cabinet doors open to do the same. Finally, we leave the kitchen sink, bunkhouse sink and shower hot and cold water on a slow drip to keep things flowing.



Ok, I'll stop now and apologize for rambling.



It's great to be here!



Thanks in advance,



Peter


I dont have that exact floor plan. But all the campers ive have had the plumbing behind fake walls in the compartments.

If you look closely youll see square drive screws. Drop those panels down and youll have access to everything there you need.

You will have to drop down the belly wrap to get to the lines going to the sink as well. The floor is not insulated at all.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:48 AM   #3
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Your title asks for something we have come to believe does not exist. Good luck finding any diagrams on any systems.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:48 AM   #4
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Your title asks for something we have come to believe does not exist. Good luck finding any diagrams on any systems.


Yea its who ever was working in plumbing that day. I bet every camper is different.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:31 AM   #5
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thanks Brad...fantastic info that will be a great help. When you say belly wrap then state the floor has no insulation, are belly wrap and floor synonymous? I have seen foam insulation peeking thru a number of places/gaps in the bellow wrap (is that some type of corrugated cardboard...yeeesh!). Wasn't sure if that insulation was expanding for some reason in the cold hence my reluctance to drop it in these well below freezing temps we're in the middle of....
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:32 AM   #6
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:33 AM   #7
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thanks Brad...fantastic info that will be a great help. When you say belly wrap then state the floor has no insulation, are belly wrap and floor synonymous? I have seen foam insulation peeking thru a number of places/gaps in the bellow wrap (is that some type of corrugated cardboard...yeeesh!). Wasn't sure if that insulation was expanding for some reason in the cold hence my reluctance to drop it in these well below freezing temps we're in the middle of....


Yea the foam you see isnjust for anything they have ran thru the plastic cardboard whatever it is.

It basicly stops air or bugs and such from getting in there.

If you take that plastic stuff down you will see the bottom of you floor and all the wiring/plumbing. This is where your pex is freezing im sure.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:03 AM   #8
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A much more cost effective solution would be to buy a small air compressor and an air fitting to blow the water out of the lines before you leave. That way you aren't burning all that electricity/oil to heat the unit while not there. The other thing you can do is skirt the unit if it isn't moving. It would be like skirting a mobile home. That would hold the heat in underneath, you're battling the "highway overpass" effect with the outside air being able to cool the underbelly.
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:09 AM   #9
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A much more cost effective solution would be to buy a small air compressor and an air fitting to blow the water out of the lines before you leave. That way you aren't burning all that electricity/oil to heat the unit while not there. The other thing you can do is skirt the unit if it isn't moving. It would be like skirting a mobile home. That would hold the heat in underneath, you're battling the "highway overpass" effect with the outside air being able to cool the underbelly.


Thanks chop! Started thinking about both last night and looking into skirting options...great ideas. Much appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:09 AM   #10
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Thanks chop! Started thinking about both last night and looking into skirting options...great ideas. Much appreciated.
No problem. That's what we're here for. It's not all a/c and furnace bashing as some would suggest in other threads.

You can get a pancake compressor at most big box home improvement stores for around $100 here in Tx., prices may vary by you. The fitting is easy to make and I have a pic of mine in this thread: 371REBH lines frozen
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