rear stabilizer jacks or slide outs first

inspectorgf · 10-25-2011, 10:38 AM

New 365saq just wondering does it make a difference whether you put the rear electric stabilizers down first or the put slides out first i have always done stabilizers last but when my salesmen was delivering camper i'm pretty sure he put stabilizers down first.

Rugged Brown · 10-25-2011, 11:21 AM

I put stabilizers down last.

frankm · 10-25-2011, 11:26 AM

I was taught to do the stabilizers first, then slide out. Take a look at this thread http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-16254.html for others' methods.

TURBS · 10-25-2011, 11:36 AM

What frank said

Rugged Brown · 10-25-2011, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankm

I was taught to do the stabilizers first, then slide out. Take a look at this thread http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-16254.html for others' methods.

Let's have a closer look at this.

If you extend stabilizers before slideout, the weight bearing load on the stabilizers are adjusted for the slideout not be extended. Keep in mind that these stabilizers are meant only to stabilize the camper and not weight bear the camper. Once you extend the slideout, the weight transfers laterally to the side of the slideout thus increasing the weight bearing load on that stabilizer. This is not what I would want because I know that these stabilizers cannot take that additional load. They are not meant to bear the brunt of the camper load. I am not a physicist but if there is one on these forums, correct me if I'm wrong.

frankm · 10-25-2011, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rugged Brown

Let's have a closer look at this.

If you extend stabilizers before slideout, the weight bearing load on the stabilizers are adjusted for the slideout not be extended. Keep in mind that these stabilizers are meant only to stabilize the camper and not weight bear the camper. Once you extend the slideout, the weight transfers laterally to the side of the slideout thus increasing the weight bearing load on that stabilizer. This is not what I would want because I know that these stabilizers cannot take that additional load. They are not meant to bear the brunt of the camper load. I am not a physicist but if there is one on these forums, correct me if I'm wrong.

Terry your reasoning is very logical and if taught to do it this way I wouldn't have any issues following it. The process I follow, and according to the tech that did our PDI, is based on the idea to give the slide-out (and its very delicate in/out mechanism) a stable platform to do its job. With the trailer firmly on the ground, the slide-out mechanism won't be (as) stressed. With out the stabs down you can picture the trailer leaning curbside as the slide-out extends and putting lifting pressure on the rails.

I did a Google search looking for manufacturers' recommendation on this and the only thing I found was CrossRoadsRV (RV Tow Tips, How to tow RV, RV Towing, RV Tow Guide, Guide RV Towing) which states:

Quote:

OPERATING SLIDE-OUT ROOMS

A switch located inside the recreational vehicle on the sink base or a nearby wall partition operates the slide-out room.

Before extending the room(s) check the exterior for proper clearances.

The recreational vehicle must be level and the stabilizer jacks securely in place. It may also be necessary for the recreational vehicle to be slightly off level, side-to-side, during heavy periods of rain to allow rain to run off the roof away from the recreational vehicle. This will prevent the water from "backing up" and running inside the living area of the trailer. To extend the slide-out, hold the switch in the OUT position.

I see how this will be another one of which came first: Chicken or egg.

lindy · 10-25-2011, 01:09 PM

For me it depends of if the trl is level when first pulled into site or not. If the trl is a little higher on the side of the slide when I first pull into the side I put the slide out first this off sets the slight side high situation, if it's the slide side. If the off slide side is a little high then I level with jacks, then extend the slide.

inspectorgf · 10-26-2011, 08:40 AM

Ok i actually talked to a rep from sierra and he said the first thing you want to do is level the camper and put all stabilizer jacks down before putting slides out that way its easier on all the working parts of the slides.

Len & Cheri · 10-26-2011, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inspectorgf

Ok i actually talked to a rep from sierra and he said the first thing you want to do is level the camper and put all stabilizer jacks down before putting slides out that way its easier on all the working parts of the slides.

Yep, that's what I do

jasonshughes · 09-23-2012, 06:33 PM

Hello, I am having a problem with my slide outs and stabilizer jacks. They are all motorized. Under battery power, I was sliding out my bunk room slide when it just stopped suddenly. I tried the other slide and nothing happened when I press the switch. I also tried to raise my stab jacks and nothing would happen when I pressed the switch. I then plugged the trailer into my house outlet thinking the battery was dead, but still nothing worked. I waited about 10 minutes and tried it again and was able to move the slides to the out position and the stabs worked. Then a few minutes later, I brought the bunk house slide all the way in and then tried to bring the dining slide in and everything went dead again. Also, the stabs went dead again. My TT is the 2012 Primetime Lacrosse 318BHS. Thanks for any help on this.

arlee453 · 09-23-2012, 06:38 PM

I would leave the TT plugged in and let your battery charge up overnight and try again.

AquaMan · 09-23-2012, 06:39 PM

Sounds like maybe you may have a converter and/or battery issue. The converter may be overheating and shutting itself down until it cools off and works again. Have you tried any other 12v electronics when this happens?

jasonshughes · 09-23-2012, 06:48 PM

I replaced the battery and still having the same issues. Slide out and stabilizer motors not working. I have not tried any other 12V electronics yet. All of my lights still work.

Barnman1 · 09-23-2012, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankm

Terry your reasoning is very logical and if taught to do it this way I wouldn't have any issues following it. The process I follow, and according to the tech that did our PDI, is based on the idea to give the slide-out (and its very delicate in/out mechanism) a stable platform to do its job. With the trailer firmly on the ground, the slide-out mechanism won't be (as) stressed. With out the stabs down you can picture the trailer leaning curbside as the slide-out extends and putting lifting pressure on the rails.

I did a Google search looking for manufacturers' recommendation on this and the only thing I found was CrossRoadsRV (RV Tow Tips, How to tow RV, RV Towing, RV Tow Guide, Guide RV Towing) which states:

I see how this will be another one of which came first: Chicken or egg.

Ok, what you are saying, is that you should not have the trailer level to allow for rain water runoff? On a house that has a flat roof, really flat and level? I think not, so I would also have to say the tops of campers are not all flat and level, so I would tend to not believe anything from that site. I agree whole heartedly with Terry

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