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Old 01-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #1
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Angry Slide stuck out-HELP PLEASE!!!

-Just bought a BRAND NEW 2012 F/R Sierra 323FK that we special ordered-(evedentally the 323FK is being discontinued) drove 1100 miles to pick it up, it was demo'd and then we drove home, opened the slides (2) (both on 1 switch) and now the main (larger) one will not go back in-electric motor is working but something seems to be binding up mechanically.......no one at the selling dealership can get ahold of a rep at F/R today due to the MLK holiday, I completely understand this, BUT last I knew the world didn't revolve around a slain civil rights leader, I need an RV Tech to come out and fix this darn slider unless someone can tell me what to do short of putting a tool on it please! Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:49 PM   #2
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I don't have any slides but there are proper ways to get it in manually. Please don't take any tools to it until you get some feedback or answers. Give it more time and others with experience should be sharing their knowledge with you.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:04 PM   #3
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Calm down, and all will be well. You want a tech, but no one knows where you are. I'm sure the selling dealership is willing to help, but doubt they will send a tech 1100 miles. There are a few techs on here, I happen to be one.

Now you say the motor is running, but plug in to shore power if you can, just to make sure you are getting some voltage. Also, will the other slide go back out? If it does, will it go back in? These things would be helpful to know. I'm also moving this to the Sierra forum, where owners of like trailers tend to hang out more.

Also, since you are far away from your buying dealer, see if they know of a closer dealer that maybe a tech would come and take a look. While this also sounds like a warranty issue, you may be in for a fight, since you didn't purchase locally.

One last thought, is your trailer level? It should be very close to level before you operate the slides. Unlevel can and will cause binding of the mechanism.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:29 PM   #4
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Windrider, not hard timing you or anyone else but, where do you check for level fore and aft as well as left and right? My trailer checks differently in so many places it isn't even funny.

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Old 01-16-2012, 02:53 PM   #5
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I check fore and aft at the main door opening. As for left and right, try to find a seem in the aluminum siding, and hold the level there. Rear bumpers aren't always level, so stay away. With a slide, you want the frame level, so the kitchen counter won't work.

As long as you are withing an inch or so, the slide should work. Doesn't have to be perfect. One thing to check is the floor at the rear, and at the front. Hope for the same reading. Otherwise the frame may be in a slight twist causing binding.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:09 PM   #6
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You got a phone number you can PM to me? I might be able to track down someone who can call you.

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Old 01-16-2012, 05:19 PM   #7
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Guys, Hey Thanks for the replies and suggestions!! I have been authorised to call a local RV mobil RV guy and pay a $75.00 service call then the dealer will reimburse me (likely??) I have tried checking the level of the trailer and its honestly not off that far, my Nephew suggested plugging into house current so may be we'll get a bit more juce-the motor seems to run fine to me with a fully charged brand new 12 volt RV battery hooked up though....so I'm going to try that BEFORE I loose $75.00....
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:29 PM   #8
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if you didn't keep the trailer plugged in, the new battery will be dead in just a few days, due to the parasitic power drains.
if this happened, i'll bet the battery's low or dead and that's why the slide won't come in.

a lot of us install a battery disconnect switch.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:43 PM   #9
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Ok.......We drove 1100 miles with my truck's charging system charging a brand new battery, arrived home, ran the slides out and tried to pull back in just 15 minutes later, IF the battery won't do the job in this short of a time frame how then do I or anyone else "boondock camp" with NO generator?? would it help to have my truck running?? seems like a crappy situation then.........
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:48 PM   #10
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Battery should not have gone down that quick. I have heard of guys always putting slides out before unhooking from truck. Not sure if this helps or not. If you plan to do some boon docking. I would add another battery.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #11
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Just wondering, did you get it back in? Was it the battery?
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:25 PM   #12
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We purchased a new Rockwood 2 years ago and FR used the wrong kind of bolts in the shafts that move the slide outs, they sheared the second time I used the slide outs. This was one of the dozens of issues we have had with our FR product.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:10 PM   #13
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On his camper, with button controlling both slides, they are hydraulic, so there no shear bolts or gear mechanism. The hydraulic mechanism has a pressure relief valve, and if it builds to much pressure, the valve lets the the pressure off, before a hose blows are damage is done. Thanks for posting, but there are two types of slide, mechanical and hydraulic, and they are not similar much at all, other than with both, the camper gets wider.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:55 AM   #14
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Haven't gotten it back in yet. the dealer has ok'd calling a service person to come out and fix it but I must pay $75.00 and "wait" to get reimbursed.......gonna call them today......Thanks for all the help folks!!
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:57 AM   #15
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It DEFINITELY helps to have a 2nd source (truck) to assist the on-board battery when putting your slides in and out.
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:40 AM   #16
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Guys, (I was going to say I feel so stupid, but I'm not going to) I hooked up shore power and the large slide came in!! I wish someone at the dealership would have told me what you all did!
I was going to try starting my truck and letting it run for a while then trying the slide, but I went and bought an adaptor and plugged in to house current.
Again, Thanks very much to all of you that responded with help and suggestions!!

This said, I think I'm going to add a second battery now while it is all still brand new:There is a single group 24 Deep cycle battery on it now and plenty of room for a second one I believe, so I'll just get anouther new battery (in my case Interstate) and install-it sure can't hurt if we were to do much boondock camping.....is there some special wireing that is made to connect 2 batteries together for this? and while I'm about it is there a special pigtail made to be able to hook up park cable to 2 cable inlets on the back of the unit or must I make my own? Thanks Again!!!!
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:25 AM   #17
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if you don't plan on dry camping, there's no need to add a second battery. just keep the trailer's shore cord plugged in.
modern RVs have numerous parasitic power drains, which will drain the battery after a few days if the trailer is not plugged in.
that's why most of us add a battery disconnect switch. and never depend on your tow vehicle to re-charge drained batteries. most vehicles are only set up to trickle charge, at best.

if you add a second battery, it has to match the one you have.
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:08 AM   #18
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You might want to check the charging circuit from your truck pig tail. Sounds like your truck may not be charging the battery. If I remember right, home, opened her up, did some stuff, and tried to close. Battery shouldn't die in a short time, unless you ran the furnace some.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
I think I'm going to add a second battery now while it is all still brand new:There is a single group 24 Deep cycle battery on it now and plenty of room for a second one I believe, so I'll just get anouther new battery (in my case Interstate) and install-it sure can't hurt if we were to do much boondock camping.....is there some special wireing that is made to connect 2 batteries together for this? and while I'm about it is there a special pigtail made to be able to hook up park cable to 2 cable inlets on the back of the unit or must I make my own? Thanks Again!!!!
I would suggest group 27 instead of 24 in the future, if they will fit. Reason is more amp hours. Wire them in Parallel and it doubles the amps and remains 12 volt. The adapter is RV Power Cord Adapter, 15A Male to 30A Female. There are a lot of types. I would get a 6-12" not a fixed one. I have had both. If you haven't ever checked it out, try etrailer.com. They have a lot of helpful items and great service.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:51 PM   #20
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Keep in mind that when adding a second battery both batteries together will only be as strong as the weaker battery.

I vote for a battery disconnect switch. Best small investment on my trailer.
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