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Old 08-12-2012, 05:44 AM   #1
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Wink (SOLVED) 11.7 amp power drain??

Our 2012 Sierra 323FK has developed a rather heavy power drain at 11.7 amps.
WE went over everything with a fine tooth comb and found nothing on.
We took it to a repair shop, they tested everything 9 ways to sunday and deceided the power converter was bad causing this situation, we are waiting on the new one to come in to replace it......anyone have any opinions or suggestions on this? some folks feel that the converter IS NOT the problem......
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:11 AM   #2
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11.7 amps is a pretty substantial drain.

First, is it AC or DC?

The Converter reference suggests DC, so;

Is it all the time or does it cycle (ON then OFF then ON)?

Do you you have tank heaters?
Is your Fridge Climate Control ON?
Is your Inverter (if you have one) - ON

IF it is an AC issue; isolate using the circuit breakers.
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:20 AM   #3
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The drain is DC, Our TT has NOT even been camping yet since we brought it home in January due to many family issues including the death of my Brother-In-law in June.
Its a 2012 that we had built for us (most likely the very last Sierra 323FK with Signature Package built) we discovered a couple of months ago that the factory had NOT installed the 15k a/c that we paid for and they agreed to have our local rv dealer swap it out-I firmly believe thats where the problem started but can't prove it.
I had installed a second coach battery as the factory only installed 1 group 24 battery way before the a/c was changed-the a/c was tested at the dealer and turned off.
The same dealer spent 2 solid hours checking everything including the removal of all the 12volt fuses and STILL had the 11.7amp drain.
They then had a meeting of the minds (and I presume bench-tested the converter) and came back and said the converter was bad.
These guys who will remain nameless wanted almost a million dollars for a new converter, I had told Forest River that we were leaving on vacation in 2 days very reluctantly gave the ok for the million dollar converter and said the dealer was severely ripping them and me off on this converter.
I started checking prices on the net for the same converter and found that the dealer was charging 4 times what they should for it-AND was going to install a converter with 5 less amps than the original-MY thought was that the factory only puts in the bare minimum converter in the first place and we should go to a bigger unit NOT smaller.
I ordered an 80amp PD Inteli-Power 9280 converter with charging wizard AND wired remote pendant and will take it to the dealer to install instead of their 60 amp one.......I STILL think something is not right with the a/c swap may be a 12volt wire is grounding out somewhere.........
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:27 AM   #4
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There should be no 12 volts going to the AC, so that is not it.
IMO, any short to ground on DC will blow a fuse somewhere.

11.7 volts DC is pretty specific draw if it is steady.
My money is on incompetent and criminally so, dealer.

Most likely no at darn thing wrong with your converter, either.
Check your tank heaters; my money is on they are "ON" (maybe even wired "on" on purpose!) and the dealer will turn them off after he gets FR's check for work he never does.
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:32 AM   #5
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NO tank heaters, fridge is gas and 110 only, I'm with you on the fuses....I checked them BEFORE we took it to the crooks, THEY even pulled all of them to make sure something wasn't askew there.....I watched them do the a/c swap and they didn't touch anything else....I watched them check this draw problem and nothing out of the ordinary was done in my eyes........I just don't know what to do now IF the converter is not the problem-we have NO INVERTER....I am stumped.....
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra323fk
NO tank heaters, fridge is gas and 110 only, I'm with you on the fuses....I checked them BEFORE we took it to the crooks, THEY even pulled all of them to make sure something wasn't askew there.....I watched them do the a/c swap and they didn't touch anything else....I watched them check this draw problem and nothing out of the ordinary was done in my eyes........I just don't know what to do now IF the converter is not the problem-we have NO INVERTER....I am stumped.....
What made you go looking for an amp draw anyway?

What reasons lead you to even know you had an 11 amp draw?


If you shut the breaker off on the distribution panel for the converter the amp draw should be gone.
You don't NEED the converter TESTED to find that out.

Ron
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #7
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Unit was brand new in January and I added anouther NEW group 24 deep cycle/RV/Marine battery in March, unit sat in yard by itself with both batteries fully charged and less than 3 days they were both completely dead and wouldn't even light the 2 LEDs in the tongue jack, charged both batteries back up with external 8amp charger then disconnected and same thing both completely flat dead in less than 3 days, I removed both batteries and took to Interstate battery and had them checked and both checked out to holding more than twice the CCAs they were rated for.

I didn't realize there was just 1 breaker to shut everything 12volt down.....not sure if the crooks know that or not.....
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra323fk View Post
NO tank heaters, fridge is gas and 110 only, I'm with you on the fuses....I checked them BEFORE we took it to the crooks, THEY even pulled all of them to make sure something wasn't askew there.....I watched them do the a/c swap and they didn't touch anything else....I watched them check this draw problem and nothing out of the ordinary was done in my eyes........I just don't know what to do now IF the converter is not the problem-we have NO INVERTER....I am stumped.....
Fridge is ALWAYS 12VDC regardless of what you heat the evaporator with (propane or 120VAC). The control voltage (the main board) is 12VDC and the Climate Control heating pad is 12VDC.

There are also several fuses located BEHIND the power center on "pigtails" and 2 or more up near the battery.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:23 PM   #9
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He found the fuse in the front near the batteries in a box it was fine, he seemed to know what he was doing....I'm scared now that he might try & fool me into seeing/believing that the problem is fixed when it may not be--how can I check for myself at his place BEFORE I pay him?? I've got a multi-meter.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra323fk
He found the fuse in the front near the batteries in a box it was fine, he seemed to know what he was doing....I'm scared now that he might try & fool me into seeing/believing that the problem is fixed when it may not be--how can I check for myself at his place BEFORE I pay him?? I've got a multi-meter.
You'd need an amp clamp for multi meter.
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