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Old 06-03-2010, 06:26 AM   #11
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Gilby, Ours is an 09 32 QBBS. 15000 BTU dometic AC. Basically after doing all the service tests including amp draw to determine coolant level, I have basically found that the unit has a limitation of about 69 degrees on an 80 -90 degree day. AC needs certain amount of return air volume from cabin. If you keep your bedroom door closed the unit will recycle cold air from the bedroom and freeze. With the thermostat on the living room wall, it will continue to call for cold air and try to run your compressor. Try running your AC with the bedroom door open and see if it freezes. You may find you get better cooling in the nose as well. My AC blows about 59 degree air at the nose by the bunks. When the AC has enough return air it wont freeze and will go thru the normal cycle of compressor on compressor off as it reaches the thermostat setting. Two things that I am going to try are to install new diffuser that is adjustable and I am going to cut a hole and install a grated vent (for return air) above the door. This way I can close my bedroom door with out the AC freezing. Hope this helps.
I don't know about your doors but mine have approx an 1 1/2" space from the bottom of the door to the floor and even more at the top of the door to the ceiling, you may be wasting your time putting in a transfer vent in the door. There should be enough space at the top of the door for the hot air to be pulled by the return.
The other thing you may want to check is the fan speed setting on the unit, I am talking about the setting on the motor as to how it is wired in the unit not by the t-stat, Mine had a LOW, MED, MED HIGH, HIGH, this was a 4 speed fan, Mine was wired as LOW and MED HIGH.
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:08 PM   #12
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Rockwood06,
I do have a gap in the door both top and bottom. Only about 1 1/2 inch total. I thought about cutting the door but due to the glass I am afraid to cut. I dont think the door would support the glass after cutting a larger gap. As for the fan I will check thanks for the input.
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:27 PM   #13
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I have a 2006 8314ss and I have not had any freeze ups with the bathroom and bedroom doors closed. I can fell the return air from these two rooms above and below the doors.
When it is over 85 degrees I turn the fan mode to on, the reason for this is because the fan keeps the air moving which helps eliminate hot spot in the camper.
There are a few other things we do to help with the heat and to help the a/c work a bit easier. I also did some testing with the day/night shades as well during the day when the sun was nice and bright with a temp gun, I could not believe what I found with as much as a 10 degree difference between the two shades.
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:50 PM   #14
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you may have a restricted, collapsed or plugged a/c duct, if enough air cannot pass across the evaporator then it will freeze up, check the air flow at each duct.
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:10 PM   #15
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I have a 2010 31TS with a Dometic 15K AC. On the bottom they have a bypass grill to open now to help with freezes up. IT may be that the duct system is under size & you just may have to much back pressure to get the air flow across the coils you need to keep it from freezing up ? or maybe a blockage?
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:20 AM   #16
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We bought our 32QBBS last year. AC freezes up constentally. Had it in the shop for 2 mths. at the end of the season last year. Service center replaced everything they could. Just got back from our 2nd trip. AC froze every time we used it. Anyone else having a problem? Any thoughts. Forrest River has no interest in helping at this point. I'm try to get it fixed through Dometic.
Freezing could also happen if you have the thermostat really low and put the fan on manual. I have been told the best way is to leave the fan on AUTO and let the AC unit cycle off then back on when the temperature rises again. I usually leave my around 80 degrees and it will cycle on and off even at 110 degrees here in Arizona.
What temp do you set the thermostat and do you put the fan on auto or manual?

My 2 cents.
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:06 AM   #17
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Freezing could also happen if you have the thermostat really low and put the fan on manual. I have been told the best way is to leave the fan on AUTO and let the AC unit cycle off then back on when the temperature rises again. I usually leave my around 80 degrees and it will cycle on and off even at 110 degrees here in Arizona.
What temp do you set the thermostat and do you put the fan on auto or manual?

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AC Compressor still will cycle On/Off based on the T-stat setting when Fan Switch is in On position. On very hot days running the fan constantly helps move the air throughout the RV avoiding those real hot spots. One thing to remember AC units can only do so much. A residential AC System is designed to bring indoor temps 20 degrees below the outdoor temperature. So when its 95 the best you can hope for is 75. RVs are no where near as well insulated as a home. When the sun is beating on one side it's still going to feel warm there. Cold air is harder to push than hot air, so the warmth of the sun is going to win out against the AC which is primarily dispursed near the center of the RV. Setting it at 69 degrees is never going to happen until over night once the outdoor temps go down.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:58 PM   #18
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What I doing on 95-100+ day is putting foil back bubble wrap on the windows , it come in 24",30"& 36" W by 10-20' rolls. Cut it out to fit the windows. Help a lot with the heat gain & loss through the windows. Not all but on sunny side or where we sit in the winter to keep the draft off.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:58 AM   #19
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Don't forget the those sky lites, place your hand near them and you will fell the heat penetration from the roof......Theory is that hot air will move to cold, so when your camper is out in the middle of the earth and the sun is beating down at 95 degrees all a round it and you have the a/c on in that small space, the hot air is trying to get in side of the camper and the same go's for heating the camper on a cold day but just the opposite, the heat is trying to get out side........So that brings up another question......

Is it harder to heat a home or to cool a home?
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Old 08-10-2010, 01:01 PM   #20
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So that brings up another question......

Is it harder to heat a home or to cool a home?
Easier to heat a home than cool it. Besides the BTUs from humans and pets, add cooking, heat off appliances, as well as sun light.
Cooling is another thing, besides the outdoor temperature and humidity you have to combat the BTUs off each human or pet, don't count Goldfish, as well as all those appliances, cooking etc.
Hot air moves easier than cold air, hot air rises, cold air drops.

You can always add clothing or blankets to stay warm but you can only take off your clothes until your naked and it's still hot!
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