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Old 04-22-2012, 09:24 PM   #11
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I have a standard R.V. hot water tank. I can't regulate it. It comes out dangerously hot!! I had the thermostat in the tank changed under warranty, and its still to hot!! I gess its the nature of the tanks.
It's that hot because you only have a 6 or 10 gallon water heater. The idea is that it will take less hot water to mix with the cold to get a good shower from the small water heater. The hot water can easily exceed 120 degrees. Small children should be watched when washing hands.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:17 PM   #12
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We have a new Forest River Wildcat Sterling 30RL. Next to the Monitor Panel there is a switch that you select Auto or Low. We have no idea what this does. Anyone got any info on this??

We also have a tankless. Dealer said to leave the switch on auto. They set the temp at 106F. The thing, so far works good. Never have to use the cold side at all, and your not using propane to heat water your not using.
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:49 PM   #13
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I just purchased a 312BHX and have a high/low switch. The dealer told me to leave it on high because it's a high flow system.?. Anyway, I had the understanding that you don't need to use the cold water to regulate water temperature (with the tankless water heater). My water temp is about perfect with the hot water on full blast.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Foley5000 View Post
I just purchased a 312BHX and have a high/low switch. The dealer told me to leave it on high because it's a high flow system.?. Anyway, I had the understanding that you don't need to use the cold water to regulate water temperature (with the tankless water heater). My water temp is about perfect with the hot water on full blast.
You do not need to use cold. "Hot water on full blast" with no cold is the standard HOT setting. To make your water hotter (for dishes, for instance), reduce flow.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:28 PM   #15
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You do not need to use cold. "Hot water on full blast" with no cold is the standard HOT setting. To make your water hotter (for dishes, for instance), reduce flow.
Hmm, I'm not sure if I would like that.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Wildcat Chris
You do not need to use cold. "Hot water on full blast" with no cold is the standard HOT setting. To make your water hotter (for dishes, for instance), reduce flow.
Thanks for the reassurance. From what I've read on this and other threads, it seems to be a point of confusion. Learning to change your acquired habits can be a challenge. Almost everyone, I would guess, is used to adjusting water temp by using both hot and cold together. So far, I think the tankless system works great, but I have not used it in a "real world" trial yet. I just picked up my new Wildcat on Monday and will be breaking it in this weekend.
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:32 PM   #17
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It has been trial and error with our tankless setup. We finally settled in on having to use Low for showers (half a turn on hot faucet) and then setting back to Auto for washing dishes. Auto was just too hot for my wife and I. Next weekend we have to pack in our own fresh water so we'll see what the flow of the water pump does to the tankless temps. I can only assume the slower flow will mean higher temps. I read on Girard's website that the system needs 45 psi to function properly...not sure what the factory pumps put out so we'll see what happens.

As far as temps go, I believe there is a limit switch set at 125 degrees (don't have the manual in front of me). While I didn't have a thermometer a couple of weeks ago, our shower water was much higher than 106 degrees when set on Auto.
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:59 PM   #18
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Learning to change your acquired habits can be a challenge.
I agree completely with your statement. This is the single biggest challenge we faced when the unit was introduced. As you can see, it's still being discussed -- and I'm very open to the discussion. Years ago, no one could have guessed that every RV would NEED a microwave oven. New technology always takes some adjusting...
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:14 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Wildcat Chris
I agree completely with your statement. This is the single biggest challenge we faced when the unit was introduced. As you can see, it's still being discussed -- and I'm very open to the discussion. Years ago, no one could have guessed that every RV would NEED a microwave oven. New technology always takes some adjusting...
As I'm sure you know Chris there is a technical service Bulletin that has been sent to dealers from Gerrard concerning this issue. The main issue is the inlet water temp. They suggest that for those of us in the south (hot) to keep the switch on low. All the switch does is control the burner. It has two heat settings low and high. With the switch on auto the unit will switch back from high to low depending on the outlet temp. On the low setting the unit stays on the low setting but still functions the same. Here in south Texas we can see inlet water temps over 90 deg. Even the low setting will not work.. The unit reaches it's max output temp and cuts off completely. We call it adventures in bathing. Works great when we travel to cooler climates and in winter. Gerard needs to program this thing with an option for an ultra low burner setting for those of us in the hotter parts of the country.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:11 AM   #20
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We also have the tankless water heater on our 30RL. The auto switch allows the water heater automatically to run high or low depending on the inlet water temp. I just put a VSD pump on our unit, as we dry camp a lot. The even flow of pressure allows the tankless water heater to work much better. Otherwise we had cycling between hot and cold.

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