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Old 11-18-2013, 08:27 PM   #31
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Would be easier to just drive on blocks to tilt the trailer towards the drain or open the drain when you leave the cg and let it drain on the way home. Works for me, but I like to keep at least 5 gal in the tank. Don't have to winterize tho'.
OR...............have the tank drain as it's supposed to when the trailer is level. I'm not going to simply make adjustments for a poor design or engineering flaw! These things are far too expensive to just accept it. That would be like buying a car, finding it doesn't make left turns and simply just making multiple right turns to get to where you are going, instead of expecting the manufacture to fix the problem!
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:03 PM   #32
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OR...............have the tank drain as it's supposed to when the trailer is level. I'm not going to simply make adjustments for a poor design or engineering flaw! These things are far too expensive to just accept it. That would be like buying a car, finding it doesn't make left turns and simply just making multiple right turns to get to where you are going, instead of expecting the manufacture to fix the problem!
I truly do wish you luck in your endeavor. I would imagine the only way it can be fixed is for the dealer to tilt the tank some way or other to get it to slope toward the drain.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:08 AM   #33
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I truly do wish you luck in your endeavor. I would imagine the only way it can be fixed is for the dealer to tilt the tank some way or other to get it to slope toward the drain.
As "pashman" stated earlier, the problem is that the tank is unsupported. It bulges downward, 6-8 inches, when filled. The belly of the tank needs to be supported with something that can be fitted under it. I think that would solve about 90% of the problem right there.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #34
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my 100gal tank drops about 6-8 inches also when full.. after we use it I remove the cap and drive 2-5 hrs home when I get in the driveway water still comes out
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:30 PM   #35
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my 100gal tank drops about 6-8 inches also when full.. after we use it I remove the cap and drive 2-5 hrs home when I get in the driveway water still comes out
Sounds very familiar...
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:54 PM   #36
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The drain on mine is on the left side, so if I were to do something (which I'm not), I would support the center with plywood and raise the rh (curbside). Just not worth the hassle to me.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:25 PM   #37
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I've both discussed this issue with production/engineering as well as printed out this thread for them to read for reference. I'll let you know the results of their in-house testing...
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:25 PM   #38
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Wildcat Chris...thanks for update. Just fyi...I put a 2x4 aganst the sagging bottom of the fresh water tank and raised up with a jack and was then able to nearly drain tank empty at least to the point the gauge finally went from 1/3 to empty. Tank is very soft and flexible and definately needs some cross bracing to keep it from sagging or bulging when loaded. Let us know what FR decides to do to fix.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:28 AM   #39
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I have a 2014 312BHX and just noticed the other day when I was draining the fresh water out of the tank there was another sewer valve back by the fresh water low point drain. I thought there was just the three valves up front to empty the tanks. Is this valve for the aft gray water tank? Also, does anyone have a schematic of plumbing, electrical, etc on the trailer?
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:23 PM   #40
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I have a 2014 312BHX and just noticed the other day when I was draining the fresh water out of the tank there was another sewer valve back by the fresh water low point drain. I thought there was just the three valves up front to empty the tanks. Is this valve for the aft gray water tank? Also, does anyone have a schematic of plumbing, electrical, etc on the trailer?
I assume you have an outside kitchen? That sewer valve is to drain your tank for the ok sink.
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